TH400 Vacuum Requirement

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mikester

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Mar 10, 2010
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One question solved, now another one pops up.
How many inches of vacuum is needed for a TH400 modulator ? This is what I have at idle. Not a lot. Looking into a Leeds or Jegs vane pump for the booster but what the heck do I do the the transmission ?
IMG_0646.jpg
 

69hurstolds

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I heard that the least amount of vacuum is 12". But more is better. You'll probably have early downshifts and late up shifts. Of course, governor controls WOT shifts, so who cares, but the cruising around town? WTF have you only got 9" of vacuum at idle? You got boulders for cam lobes or something?
 
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mikester

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I heard that the least amount of vacuum is 12". But more is better. You'll probably have early downshifts and late up shifts. Of course, governor controls WOT shifts, so who cares, but the cruising around town? WTF have you only got 9" of vacuum at idle? You got boulders for cam lobes or something?
Yeah, Im kinda surprised that its so low. Its only 510 lift. I know the pump with fix the booster. Just not sure what to do with that modulator. I guess I'll hook up the pump and try it up and down the block. Now Im even wondering if theres enough for the PCV off the carb. Its not looking too good. LOL
 

SS_Malibu

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I think those fuel economy gauges are essentially a vacuum gauge and those go to zero when you hit the throttle. I'm saying less vacuum when throttled.
 
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69hurstolds

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Vacuum is like that bad jalepeno- it always comes back. Think of it as a controlled vacuum leak. When driving, the throttle blades are somewhat open as air and fuel are rushing into your combustion chambers as the piston moves down the cylinder (conversely moving air through the PCV system as well). The engine will eat the fuel and air mixture to get to an equillibrium rpm if you hold it in one spot, assuming load doesn't change. Close throttle a bit, you reduce the air/fuel coming in, vacuum goes up, and rpm starts to come down (starving for fuel). Mash the throttle to the floor and you have an instant "hole" basically ruining your vacuum. It's your accelerator pump on the carb, or fuel supply device design based on throttle position that is controlling your fuel and air. If you're system is working right, the hole gets covered up with fuel leading to an instantaneous blast of rpm. If it doesn't, you get the bog, and the car falls on its face.

The 9" at idle tells me something isn't right. A 510 lift cam shouldn't do that unless you're running a 2 cylinder. Timing? Vacuum leak? Bad rings? Something seems odd with that. Obviously I have no idea about the engine, but even my cammed 455 makes around 14 at idle (and shifts fine with the vacuum modulator).
 
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mikester

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 10, 2010
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Small town NY
Vacuum is like that bad jalepeno- it always comes back. Think of it as a controlled vacuum leak. When driving, the throttle blades are somewhat open as air and fuel are rushing into your combustion chambers as the piston moves down the cylinder (conversely moving air through the PCV system as well). The engine will eat the fuel and air mixture to get to an equillibrium rpm if you hold it in one spot, assuming load doesn't change. Close throttle a bit, you reduce the air/fuel coming in, vacuum goes up, and rpm starts to come down (starving for fuel). Mash the throttle to the floor and you have an instant "hole" basically ruining your vacuum. It's your accelerator pump on the carb, or fuel supply device design based on throttle position that is controlling your fuel and air. If you're system is working right, the hole gets covered up with fuel leading to an instantaneous blast of rpm. If it doesn't, you get the bog, and the car falls on its face.

The 9" at idle tells me something isn't right. A 510 lift cam shouldn't do that unless you're running a 2 cylinder. Timing? Vacuum leak? Bad rings? Something seems odd with that. Obviously I have no idea about the engine, but even my cammed 455 makes around 14 at idle (and shifts fine with the vacuum modulator).
Timings spot on. Dont know what I could have as a vacuum leak. The lines on the carb are plugged. Only have the single fitting on the manifold. Its a T with a hard line going to the transmission and the other port currently has a barb that I was going to use for the booster if there was enough vacuum. The motors been built for a quite a few years and the only run time was about 30 minutes on a test stand at different RPMs to break it in. Im stumped.
 

Supercharged111

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Timings spot on. Dont know what I could have as a vacuum leak. The lines on the carb are plugged. Only have the single fitting on the manifold. Its a T with a hard line going to the transmission and the other port currently has a barb that I was going to use for the booster if there was enough vacuum. The motors been built for a quite a few years and the only run time was about 30 minutes on a test stand at different RPMs to break it in. Im stumped.

You sure it's completely broken in? I made 20-30 Dyno pulls and my motor wouldn't break in. Took about 10 minutes on the race track to get those rings to set. Then they continued to set in over the season. Granted that was a Dustin garage hone and nothing professional, but that was 2015 and it's no worse for the wear now. What's your duration, LSA/ICL?
 
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