BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
5,543
6,662
113
Permanent Temporary
Marman clamps have been around a long time. Aerospace trickle-down. One of the Marx Brothers started manufacturing them. My '92 Cummins had them connecting the intake filter to the turbocharger.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

liquidh8

Comic Book Super Hero
Donovan, there are hydraulic jacks and they are for height adjustability, the thread rod is for adjusting the center of gravity of the body in relation to the pivot points of the rotisserie. This adjustment let me spin the body around with ease.

I used the factory body mount locations for the attachments points, and found no issues with it being attached there, and this is the wagon.

FWIW, Eastwood sells a very similar rotisserie to what I built.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,152
23,828
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I used the factory body mount locations for the attachments points, and found no issues with it being attached there, and this is the wagon.

Thanks brother, that was the information I was looking for. Kinda what I figured, I just needed the confirmation. I’ll likely make my own attaching brackets to utilize the body mount locations too, and make them extra long at the back to capture both mount locations on either side for added security/stability.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,152
23,828
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I seem to be pretty good at being able to find work where there really shouldn’t be any.

Pushing the better part of two weeks now cleaning up and “finishing” the exhaust system. It started out as welding up the gaps in the header reducers after the geometry correction, and pretty much snowballed from there.

The reducer gaps welded up before:

AED00436-F7FC-4567-B488-241998EE05F7.jpeg


And after:

D174ECB3-BF11-4E10-BFE6-6005EAEA4F52.jpeg


After I ground the welds flush, I started out by continuing sanding and trying to smooth out all the grinder marks on the rest of the pipes. (Do you have any idea how much time and effort it takes to smooth grinder marks out of bare steel? It’s a LOT.)
Which then morphed into “geez, I should probably remove all these excess weld stalactites hanging down inside that could impede exhaust flow too”. I didn’t have any extended shank grinding burrs that would let me get more than a couple inches inside the pipes, and no one local had what I wanted for a reasonable price.

So, I turned to Amazon. Took a gamble on this set of Yuck Foo 6” assorted burrs for $30 and had them next day.

4507553D-2984-4A11-A513-CA9C2E3CBB28.jpeg


Now I hate buying anything from Chy-na as much as the next guy, but I gotta admit I was pleasantly surprised with them. Nice and sharp, no runout (which can be a huge problem with extended burrs), tough and for a price point that’s tough to argue.

I immediately put them through their paces, and turned areas like these…

ECE4ECF3-7331-4DB1-84F5-19785C5C9966.jpeg


F57850DD-C719-4344-80FB-0CFB345D6B51.jpeg


…into areas like these, with a little assist afterwards from a 40 grit flap wheel sanding drum.

B8CAC0ED-7C15-4248-9E45-9D2E65A7DAB7.jpeg


81BA6886-0EA2-4D81-840D-20532F29511E.jpeg


Essentially poor man’s extrude honing. More nice smooth goodness:

16F1F4DC-86CB-4988-91CB-56563BBA3A1E.jpeg


E7AE95DF-5136-499F-A856-8CDDD3C83852.jpeg


1CAED1DC-6748-4574-9F5B-C26BA182F1F3.jpeg


FC995D73-7567-4279-8CB0-C9F961205D7C.jpeg


D4D4B0A4-B904-4493-BBD1-1EAAADCDC634.jpeg


50C40C31-1B46-4994-A975-F74224E4F74B.jpeg


I even smoothed out the ugly welds on the two halves of the Summit X-pipe. Pretty much had to as the rest of it was starting to look really good, and their welds were sticking out like a sore thumb.

4E107D20-69D2-4032-B0EF-76C86479BA78.jpeg


So that’s where I’m at right now, this is what it takes to build some next level shjt. It’s lonely at the top, but someone’s gotta blaze the trail. Not too many guys going to this extent on a G body, but I don’t care. It’s what makes me happy, it’s gonna look killer when it’s done (because aesthetics are just as important on this build as performance), and that’s justification enough for me.

Couple last pictures of areas of the main pipes. I still have a little more to do yet, should hopefully be done in the next day or two.

0087A217-6C8D-40B4-9C49-6E4F4031A8A6.jpeg


3DB53C58-8BD6-484B-A70E-08240EBD8361.jpeg


93D5C4B8-D92B-4B57-B896-7E03FB54C560.jpeg


3E543BEA-DB51-40FA-A54C-70650AFA52F8.jpeg


I know it seems like a lot of unnecessary work, but just like bodywork on a car, it’s all in the prep ahead of time. The entire exhaust system will be going out for high lustre silver ceramic coating to match the headers, and all this work now will pay off afterwards in a beautiful finish.

I will eventually get back to finishing up the floor, I promise. But I might as well take care of the little items like this that I come across along the way, and capitalize on the opportunities to put more things in the “done” column.

D.
 
  • Like
  • Love
  • Winner
Reactions: 19 users

Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
12,826
113
Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
I seem to be pretty good at being able to find work where there really shouldn’t be any.

Pushing the better part of two weeks now cleaning up and “finishing” the exhaust system. It started out as welding up the gaps in the header reducers after the geometry correction, and pretty much snowballed from there.

The reducer gaps welded up before:

View attachment 204419

And after:

View attachment 204420

After I ground the welds flush, I started out by continuing sanding and trying to smooth out all the grinder marks on the rest of the pipes. (Do you have any idea how much time and effort it takes to smooth grinder marks out of bare steel? It’s a LOT.)
Which then morphed into “geez, I should probably remove all these excess weld stalactites hanging down inside that could impede exhaust flow too”. I didn’t have any extended shank grinding burrs that would let me get more than a couple inches inside the pipes, and no one local had what I wanted for a reasonable price.

So, I turned to Amazon. Took a gamble on this set of Yuck Foo 6” assorted burrs for $30 and had them next day.

View attachment 204408

Now I hate buying anything from Chy-na as much as the next guy, but I gotta admit I was pleasantly surprised with them. Nice and sharp, no runout (which can be a huge problem with extended burrs), tough and for a price point that’s tough to argue.

I immediately put them through their paces, and turned areas like these…

View attachment 204409

View attachment 204410

…into areas like these, with a little assist afterwards from a 40 grit flap wheel sanding drum.

View attachment 204411

View attachment 204412

Essentially poor man’s extrude honing. More nice smooth goodness:

View attachment 204413

View attachment 204414

View attachment 204415

View attachment 204416

View attachment 204417

View attachment 204418

I even smoothed out the ugly welds on the two halves of the Summit X-pipe. Pretty much had to as the rest of it was starting to look really good, and their welds were sticking out like a sore thumb.

View attachment 204421

So that’s where I’m at right now, this is what it takes to build some next level shjt. It’s lonely at the top, but someone’s gotta blaze the trail. Not too many guys going to this extent on a G body, but I don’t care. It’s what makes me happy, it’s gonna look killer when it’s done (because aesthetics are just as important on this build as performance), and that’s justification enough for me.

Couple last pictures of areas of the main pipes. I still have a little more to do yet, should hopefully be done in the next day or two.

View attachment 204422

View attachment 204423

View attachment 204424

View attachment 204425

I know it seems like a lot of unnecessary work, but just like bodywork on a car, it’s all in the prep ahead of time. The entire exhaust system will be going out for high lustre silver ceramic coating to match the headers, and all this work now will pay off afterwards in a beautiful finish.

I will eventually get back to finishing up the floor, I promise. But I might as well take care of the little items like this that I come across along the way, and capitalize on the opportunities to put more things in the “done” column.

D.
Nbc Dude GIF by Superstore


You can get medication for your OCD.....

Don't get me wrong, gorgeous work..... But.... Why?!? 😂
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: 5 users

liquidh8

Comic Book Super Hero
Love it, have a link for those burs?
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,152
23,828
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Love it, have a link for those burs?

Here ya go:

Yakamoz Set of 4Pcs 5.9-Inch Long Tungsten Steel Solid Carbide Rotary Burrs Set with 1/4-Inch Shank Fits Rotary Tool for Woodworking Drilling Carving Engraving https://a.co/d/57Tee67
 
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users

Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
4,908
7,669
113
Colorado Springs, CO
Why you ask... in the name of the God's of horsepower i say.

You can obviously never saw the episode of Engine Masters where they bashed a set of headers near shut and nothing happened.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor