Its just regular filler, it won't end up being thick once its sanded out to 180
Stud gun and pins. I needed it for trim studs so I bit the bullet.
BUILD THREAD The Mullet Maurader, The Epic of the LS swapped Buick
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Its just regular filler, it won't end up being thick once its sanded out to 180
No need for me to chime in here at all. Duke said it all, 100%, and probably better than I could have.
The only thing I will add, is that you should consider epoxy as a sealer, a barrier if you will between any underlying substrates or products. This is especially important when applying products over top that might have a reaction with the products underneath. Ever applied a paint over top of an incompatible one and seen it “craze” or wrinkle up? That’s because the 2 types of paint attack each other, and it’s usually the solvents in them that do it.
For example, today’s 2K single stage urethane and base/clear paints are not compatible with the old lacquer that our cars came equipped with. So a coating of epoxy is needed to separate the two, and provide a good base for the new products to go on over top.
I’ve said it before, but I’ll throw it out there again: There are 2 schools of thought when it comes to the filler over bare metal vs over epoxy debate. Some people in certain areas have more problems than others with bare metal oxidizing and flash rusting due to humidity and other environmental conditions. They need to protect exposed metal as soon as possible, so they’ll spray epoxy immediately, then do their filler work over top afterwards. Filler absolutely can be applied over PROPERLY prepared epoxy primer, but I’m neither a fan of this train of thought, nor is it a necessity where I live. I just don’t like the idea of doing all my labor intensive bodywork over top of a product that might not have 100% perfect adhesion. If the epoxy fails to stick, guess what: all that hard work is coming off along with it.
At the end of the day, either method is perfectly acceptable, but whichever one you choose to go with, stick with it and do it all the same, all the time.
So in this case, will he spray epoxy over the body filler on the roof or go straight to a high build primer?
Straight to 2k primer. Epoxy primer doesnt sand like urethane 2k.
Are you going to use epoxy primer anywhere? Or to soon to tell. As stated by Donovan I am in a different climate so.... I'm just confused
Absolutely. I'm using it in my welded repair areas inside the fenders. All the new metal going in will be epoxy primed, brushed on, to prevent rust from reappearing. I just won't use any epoxy on the exterior surfaces that need to be sanded and leveled to look good once painted. Anything else is fair game.
Edit: I will also epoxy the seams prior to seam sealing.
He definitely should, yes.
Umm, true but you might wanna reconsider that.
First of all, when Duke gets to the point where he’s ready to prime his roof, he COULD go straight to a high build, however high build is not DTM (direct to metal). He would have to purchase and apply an etch primer to the bare metal areas prior to his high build application.
But why bother going this route and having to buy even more materials when he already has epoxy? Epoxy IS DTM, and can be applied directly over bare metal, filler, lacquer, seam sealer, damn near everything. Also, given that epoxy has superior corrosion resistance properties, Duke would be a fool not to apply 2 coats of epoxy to his roof before high build.
Tony, you’re starting to get the right idea, but are overthinking it a little. Do yourself a favour and do some research on the topic, get yourself a P sheet on epoxy from your local supplier, and it’ll all start to make sense, I promise. It’s really not that confusing or scary.
Donovan I am researching and over thinking because that's what I tend to do until I know exactly what should be done. I'll get it with the help given here and elsewhere. And as you can tell I'm not afraid to ask questions!
Update time, I have had enough sanding for today.
Got the rest of the roof blocked out to 80grit. The transition between the sides is nice and even and I'm happy with the end result.
As per the Rktpwrd approved method I did a skim of polyester glazing. Getting rid of any 40 grit scratches and air bubbles on the side I did myself.
Came out pretty good. I'll block it out to 180 tomorrow. Pretty happy to have this done, and I dont think you should do this when the car is on blocks. Way harder than It needed to be.
Hopefully get back to metal work again, I far prefer it to sanding.
Got the rest of the roof blocked out to 80grit. The transition between the sides is nice and even and I'm happy with the end result.
As per the Rktpwrd approved method I did a skim of polyester glazing. Getting rid of any 40 grit scratches and air bubbles on the side I did myself.
Came out pretty good. I'll block it out to 180 tomorrow. Pretty happy to have this done, and I dont think you should do this when the car is on blocks. Way harder than It needed to be.
Hopefully get back to metal work again, I far prefer it to sanding.
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