The rustoleum paint job legend

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Nov 4, 2012
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Now I've been looking at inexpensive ways to paint a car recently, and this $50-$100 rustoleum roll on paint job keeps coming up. I never thought I'd say this, but I'm starting to consider it. I found a pretty good article (link at bottom of post) by hotrod magazine, that they put together about doing this. They say if you wet sand a few times and put a lot of thin coats on, thin the paint down real well, and use a high density foam roller, it'll come out pretty well. What do you guys think? Being 15 and not having a lot of money, what do I have to lose? Anyone done this before? If so, do you have pics of the results? Thanks, here is the link to the article- http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body ... ewall.html
 
I tried it on my spare hood with mixed results. First tried the semi-gloss black and it was a real PIA. Sprayed it on but I ended up with water spots ( I guess from the humidity and I have no air-drier on my compressor ). Next I rolled it on and I could see the tiger stripes in the sunlight. I left it for a couple weeks and they faded but I could still see them.

Next I tried it with high gloss on a roller. I put on 1 water thin coat first thing in the AM, then around lunch another coat and finally at the end of the day a third. Once that was wet sanded with 800 grit then 1000 grit to smooth out the crap that settled in the wet paint I put on 2 more coats and it looked great ( solid 10 footer ). But the white was too bright to match the white on my car so I stripped it down to bare metal again.

The courier companies have used it for years and it looks good rolling down the road on their work trucks and straight trucks / trailers. So what have you got to lose ??
 
After reading the article , which I have seen before, I would say it's really not time or cost effective. They posted the final cost of $1500 plus. I think Macco can do it way way cheaper and I know that their paint jobs last around 5 years. Also if anything is wrong you can always grip at Macco which you won't be able to do if you do it yourself and have friends help out.
 
I did a quicky paint job on my old Malibu wagon using Interlux Brightside polyurethane which I had left over from a boat project. It has a self-leveling additive which minimizes brush marks. I did the usual body prep and primering, then I used a brush and worked it on in thin coats a panel at a time. It came out pretty good for a go-to-work car but no amount of sanding/compounding/waxing could get it to look professional. My point is, after going through all the prep work, why use a cheap paint? Unless it's truly a beater/work car, then the prize goes to the cheapest end cost possible.
 
As I've mentioned many times, Implement paint is a much better alternative to rustoleum garbage. Not quite as cheap, but it holds up worlds better. Tough as nails too, lol. Sprayed on with even a cheap gun it looks good.

BUMPER24.jpg

sprayed on thinned with naptha, added hardener (still wet satin black)

FLOOR02.jpg

applied with a roller and brush, added hardener, and penetrol (for leveling) Satin black, has a nice dull sheen, can't really tell it was rolled on, anyone who see's it, thinks it was sprayed. 8)
 
Just a thought, most vo-tech schools will paint a car if you pay for the materials.....

Or, if you sign-up and take a body work/paint class you normally get to work on a class project, your vehicle....
 
Bar50 said:
Just a thought, most vo-tech schools will paint a car if you pay for the materials.....

Or, if you sign-up and take a body work/paint class you normally get to work on a class project, your vehicle....

Hey, good point. I'm going to call around tomorrow and see if I can't get myself a cheap paint job.
 
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