The search for a comfortable tow pig...

ck80

Moderator
Moderator
Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2014
5,744
9,120
113
It's been a frustrating couple weeks that has led to an evolution of what we're searching for... with LOTS of idiotic sellers in the process.

I've learned that (no offense) there is ZERO point in trying to buy a vehicle in western part of North Carolina. Private seller, dealer, doesn't matter - overpriced steaming piles with lying dirt bag sellers.

When the search started we were thinking of picking up 2 cheaper vehicles ($5k range each) to fit separate needs. So, from a truck end number one was a r3500 cclb with a utility body and cap on the back. Lots of pics, told it ran great, told the body and cabinets would keep everything dry, was told it needed nothing, ready to go... whelp, after a 6 hr trip guess what we found: 4 of 6 were bald dry rotted tires, one with irregular wear to near failure; utility body rotted to where everything was filling with water (it was raining that day); rear doors to back seat had NO hardware, couldn't lock them since it was all missing; front end was sloppy/loose with blown shocks; one gas tank disconnected and missing parts. Seller tried telling me a/c didn't blow cold but just needed freon - it was a factory non-ac truck without the extra vents and no a/c anywhere. I could keep going but nerp, that's it. As I listed the defects out the seller acted with no surprise and checked none of it himself, some even saying yeah, he knew it... and I'm thinming, why you hide it and not tell me? He offered $200 discount because of it all. I left.

Next up was a gmt400 series k3500 rclb. Guy swore up and down it ran and drove perfect, didn't need a thing anywhere. Was another no rust truck. Well, not so much. This one had by date code 15 year old tires with cracks so big I'm not sure how they held air. Closer to a racing slick than tire, many spots were perfectly smooth. Looked underneath, and, aside from a heavy fluid leak, BOTH cv boots were torn, and one had been slinging material all over the wheelwell so failure had to be pretty imminent. As im seeing this the owner kept telling me everything on it was perfect and needed no work. Wipers didn't work, and, it may have been no ROT, but, it had rust all over including having tries to put grey primer over spots on a green truck. When I found it was unsafe to drive, as in those cvs and tires were a death trap waiting to happen, I asked if because all of that made it unsafe (let alone not perfect needing no work) he was firm on the price... I was told yup, he wouldn't take one dollar less. He also didn't look at anything I listed, and showed no surprise about the blown cv joints for example. I turned around and left without another word.

Strike 3 was an unscheduled stop at a roadside post we saw driving home and was a car. Spraybomb repaint, had new tires but rear seat was bent from being pulled forward ala towing/junkyard seeking to get into trunk. 3rd brake light was broken in the trunk and just removed from window rather than having fixed. There was no, ZERO exhaust. It ended at the cat converter with nothing behind. The dealer salesperson told me it didn't matter there was no exhaust because NC didn't have emissions so you could drive it like that... *sigh*

So, things have evolved since then. For the past two weeks I've been looking for a more expensive suv or truck that fits both needs.

I'd like something I trust the wife to drive me home from all these outpatient surgical procedures I've been having every 3-6 weeks since early spring that doesn't have the harsh ride of the sports cars (zl1/mustang/mustang gt/slk) that she is allowed to use. Some of the rides are 35 or 40 minutes and quite painful at times. (No survivor/sentimental gbody or classic trucks for her :ROFLMAO:) Originally I wanted to buy a late riviera, caddy coupe, or a gbody of no attachment for the purpose, something that floats and has a padded seat - that was the other half of the pair with a work truck she could also drive.

So, now I think Ive settled on an 03-06 suburban 2500 or yukon xl 2500 with the 496 as the ideal. No POS 6.0 trucks need apply as it needs to haul 4x4 square body trucks cross country eventually... I hope to recover at some point where I CAN do that stuff, so, whatever I do buy I'd like to be there ready and waiting for me to use... someday... I try to keep positive. Anyways, based on what Im finding out there I'm also even thinking of maybe expanding the search to a dmax cclb sierra (not a fan of the 'cat eye' silverados) but I've never owned a diesel and like the 496 simplicity.

After a couple weeks of failed searches the current crop of candidates are:

1) an earlier than desired 2001 suburban lt 4x4 2500 with the 8.1. It has a ton of miles at 246k but supposedly works great and just uses the normal quart of oil every 5k. Not much rust but needs front seats due to leather wear, can see headliner separatiom near windshield, some carpet stain, and not sure what else but I'm sure plenty... Price is more than right asking 4k.

2) is an 05 LT suburban 2500 with the 8.1. Interior is nearly mint everywhere. Only 90k miles. Original owners, BUT, is a Chicago truck. Paint bubbling at hood, behind tires, on rear rockers under back doors. Supposed to have great and regularly done maintenance. Asking is still cheap at 8k.

3) is a 05 sierra cclb duramax/Allison with 190k. Some minor dents/dings, one tear on drivers leather bucket, clean but not perfect interior. Was worked but not 3rd wheel and bed isn't real beat up inside box. Original owner and highest priced of the bunch at 10.5k.

I'd kinda rather the suv because of the ability to fold the seats flat and have a large enclosed/weather tight transport that we could sleep in the back of. I also never owned a diesel so wonder if interwebz reading teaches me enough to make the informed purchase. At the same time, all these 15-18yr old suv's with 250, 290, 300k miles asking 10k or 15k are on crack. Or at least to me, I wonder wtf and who pays that much for it if I can buy a lower mileage dmax 4x4 truck for the same or less money...

I'd buy something literally anywhere in the usa for a sub/yukon... plenty of 4x4 under 200K dmax truck around 9 to 10k local though as a backup.

Anyone have thoughts?
 

UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
3,048
3,264
113
Southlake, TX
I would Only buy a Texas/southern 2500 Suburban/Yukon XL Fuel gage was fluctuating so I replace both fuel pumps on Mine (190K miles) It was less than $100 total for both pumps/senders so that was cool, but was really cool was my truck has lived in Texas for 20 year and every bolt/nut on the underside had ZERO rust on them.

Weeks earlier, my dad gave me his same vintage Lincoln Navigator to sell (Nebraska car with 70K less miles) OMG what a rust bucket, It looked great (garaged all its life) but every bolt you'd try to loosen snapped off. The body had holes in the rokers. The brake lines rusted through. The transmission cooler lines rusted through. I swapped in Texas parts (even with googles I was picking rust fleck out of my hair/eyes for weeks) and unloaded it.

My 2000 YXL has the 300 HP 6.0L but has 4.11 gears. I traded in a V10 Ram for it, and there was no better gas motored tow vehicle in the world at the time, but wife needed an SUV. The 8.1 wasn't available, but I'm sure it would tow like the V10. I will eventually build a budget high compression AL head motor for it for better efficiency. My trailer is steel 20' enclosed weighing 4400 lbs empty so I usually haul around 8K - 8,5K Lbs total. MPG is around 10 mpg towing @ 70 mph.

I'm also keeping an eye out for a 3500 work van with a duramax. I would put in second row Captains chairs and Fold down bunks in back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
4,924
7,702
113
Colorado Springs, CO
Such is the pain of rooting through old trucks. I went through this myself back in 2016 trying to find a decent GMT400 CCLB dually. The unfortunate reality is that the majority of owners of trucks in the years you're after are ignorant dbags who just drive them as they got them from the previous dbags and do jack and shjt to fix all the crap that their predecessors allowed to fail. Patience is a virtue, best of luck to you.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

airboatgreg

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 2, 2016
2,866
3,114
113
You might want to try a local dealer you like and ask him if you could go to the auction. Agree to pay him a fixed amount for a truck you buy and pay him something if you don't find one. When i had my shop i did that for my customers but on the most part i found what they wanted and they had financing all worked out beforehand. I charged a grand plus the shipping
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
3,048
3,264
113
Southlake, TX
Autotempest has a few Yukon XL 2500's for less than $9K, including one with Quadrasteer. (sure they are high miles and 3,000 miles away from you, but plane tickets have never been cheaper.

This one appears to be a deal in the Phx:

2007 YXL 2500

It might have some first year glitches but 10 years from now you can likely sell it for more than you paid for it (The same can probably be said for pretty much any 2500 YXL at this point, as the prices have gone up in the last 5 years) as people realize they tow way, way better than multilink suspension SUV's.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

ck80

Moderator
Moderator
Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2014
5,744
9,120
113
If you want a 2500 that rides good, get a diesel. The extra weight helps soften it. My gas truck rides like a brick.

The 8.1s weigh in about 780 pounds in motor weight dry before fluids so I'd think that helps some, it's all cast iron block and heads. Duramax comes in about 830 or so, but, then again I didn't think to look at Allison vs 4t85e weights... might be worth looking into.
Autotempest has a few Yukon XL 2500's for less than $9K, including one with Quadrasteer. (sure they are high miles and 3,000 miles away from you, but plane tickets have never been cheaper.

This one appears to be a deal in the Phx:

2007 YXL 2500

It might have some first year glitches but 10 years from now you can likely sell it for more than you paid for it (The same can probably be said for pretty much any 2500 YXL at this point, as the prices have gone up in the last 5 years) as people realize they tow way, way better than multilink suspension SUV's.

My biggest issue is staying away from the 6.0 which I think will be underpowered for my needs, IF I can get to doing the towing I'd like to. I'd be looking at around 4500# trailer, and, I've had my trucks on the scale back when I used to pull scrap in sometimes with them. The LIGHTER of the two was 5300# without me in it on partial tanks of gas, and without any extra parts or stuff added in the loads.

I'd expect to have around 10,000 to 10,500 loaded on/in the trailer alone plus ideally a thousand or so in extras each load in the truck.

I don't think a 6.0 would do well with that up hills navigating through the berkshires, appalachians, and smokies.

Really think it's got to be 8.1 in the suv or the dmax with the heavy loads on grade. I remember moving fairly light loads in 6.0 powered uhauls that left something to be desired on relatively flat grades. Some nice trucks to be sure, IF ONLY people dropped the extra couple hundred for the superior engine without losing mpgs.... dumb uneducated salesperson's grumble grumble grumble...

I whole heartedly agree on the plane tickets though. When I bought the slk Benz I went to a dealer in vegas to get the color/options right. The mustang was Charlotte. The 18 f150 went up into TN, but, didn't have it a year. Always go where the car is, be happier in the long run.
 

Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
4,924
7,702
113
Colorado Springs, CO
You might want to try a local dealer you like and ask him if you could go to the auction. Agree to pay him a fixed amount for a truck you buy and pay him something if you don't find one. When i had my shop i did that for my customers but on the most part i found what they wanted and they had financing all worked out beforehand. I charged a grand plus the shipping

Around here they won't give you the time of day for that. If you don't want what's on their lot you ain't gettin a phone call.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user

ck80

Moderator
Moderator
Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2014
5,744
9,120
113
Around here they won't give you the time of day for that. If you don't want what's on their lot you ain't gettin a phone call.
Not only that, but, when you're looking around 10k, they also dont care...

Heck, back 2 years ago I went to about a dozen local dealers when I bought the f150. I was paying cash and not interested in their financing what-so-ever because it would end up costing me more. Nobody, and I mean NOBODY had any interest in trying to locate/swap for what we wanted - a blue 4x4 rcsb. It was take what they had, or leave. We had 5k in private offer rebate money plus all the publicly available stuff. Made a 42k truck 27k out the door, for us...

Used to be cash talked, bs walked. These days they DON'T want cash buyers anymore, they make too much from bonuses and hold back money from financing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor