torque to yield harmonic balancer LS1

[doood]

All the LS swap harmonic balancer install videos I see on youtube show folks using aftermarket ARP crank bolts instead of the GM torque to yield bolt. I plan to use the torque to yield GM bolt, but I am nervous about doing this the first time. I don't believe I will be able to achieve 140 degrees of twist in a fluid motion; instead, I figure I might need to torque in two or three strokes to 140 degrees twist. Additionally, I am fairly certain that I will flip the engine stand if I do this on the stand, so should I do the final torque of the balancer bolt when the engine is on the mounts in the car? The radiator will be out, so I should have the space needed.

Your advice is ALWAYS valued.

1. Can I use the installer tool to achieve the initial pass 240 ft-lb seating of the balancer pulley? All my references tell me to use the old, OEM bolt.
2. Should I spend $50 on hardened ARP crank bolt and socket to fit it or will a smooth brained ape like me be able to achieve proper torque angle with OEM bolt with a 3-foot cheater bar and an angle guage?
3. Should I do final torque in with engine on mounts so I don't tip the stand?
4. I plan to use assembly lube on the snout of the crank and the ID of the balancer pulley, and all threads and washer faces. Good?

 

[81cutlass]

I replaced my bolt with a stock replacement. No reason a stock bolt won't do what you need on a basic stock LS swap. An ARP bolt might be recommended if you are getting sponsored on a TV show, are spending someone elses money, or have a nasty F1A procharger hanging off the crank snout but otherwise it's fine to use stock.

I don't think you will achieve the torque+140 degrees on an engine stand. I did mine in the car (did a cam change after I installed the engine) and was not able to get to the 140 degrees. It is TIGHT. I got to like 115 degrees and gave up. That was with a big snap-on torque wrench with a 30 inch handle. Car was in gear (stick) so the engine was NOT turning and I couldn't get the leverage.

Doing it in stages is fine. That's why low torque+angle is popular these days, it removes variation in thread tolerance and lubrication along with user error (or redo) and achieves a more consistent clamp load.

I'd be hesitant to use lube on the bolt. The stock bolt is zinc plated which acts as a thread lubricant. The formed washer on the bolt also already includes a seal. I'm 90% sure that bolt went in dry in the factory. The torque+angle eliminates most difference in achieved clamp load weather it is lubricated or not.

 

[doood]

I replaced my bolt with a stock replacement. No reason a stock bolt won't do what you need on a basic stock LS swap. An ARP bolt might be recommended if you are getting sponsored on a TV show, are spending someone elses money, or have a nasty F1A procharger hanging off the crank snout but otherwise it's fine to use stock.

I don't think you will achieve the torque+140 degrees on an engine stand. I did mine in the car (did a cam change after I installed the engine) and was not able to get to the 140 degrees. It is TIGHT. I got to like 115 degrees and gave up. That was with a big snap-on torque wrench with a 30 inch handle. Car was in gear (stick) so the engine was NOT turning and I couldn't get the leverage.

Doing it in stages is fine. That's why low torque+angle is popular these days, it removes variation in thread tolerance and lubrication along with user error (or redo) and achieves a more consistent clamp load.

I'd be hesitant to use lube on the bolt. The stock bolt is zinc plated which acts as a thread lubricant. The formed washer on the bolt also already includes a seal. I'm 90% sure that bolt went in dry in the factory. The torque+angle eliminates most difference in achieved clamp load weather it is lubricated or not.

I just took the crank bolt off the junkyard engine and it does appear to be 1) zinc plated like the OEM replacement I plan to use and 2) dry (not lubricated). It has no grease residue on it.

When you say "low torque + angle" do you mean the first pass 37 ft-lb (quite low for M16) followed by 140-degree angle? The instructions I have tell me to seat the pully with the old bolt to 240lb. I figure I can use the installer tool to 240ft-lb.

Note: the crank threads will be greasy from the installer tool threads, so the crank bolt won't be dry no matter what. Maybe in the factory they heated the pulley or pressed it on with a robot. They probably used robot to torque to angle as well.

 

[fleming442]

ALL THE UGGA-DUGGAS!!!!!!!

 

[Tony1968]

You will never get close on a stand so wait until it's mounted in the frame. It's a bear for sure. I think I Used a 4 foot piece of 1" heavy wall pipe as a cheater on a half inch breaker bar and it was still tough

 

[64nailhead]

No kidding here - 1/2" IR gun until it wants to stop. If you have that bolt stretched, then it isn't going anywhere. 180-240 ft/lbs and it's staying put.

 

[black_aerocoupe]

The smooth shank section of the bolt is greater diameter than the thread minor diameter. It is automatically not torque-to-yield based on that. Same for ARP.

If it doesn't call for it in an assembly manual, don't lubricate a torque-specific fastener thread without caution; it can lead to higher than required torque values. Some risk, zero gain. Lube the balancer i.d. and crank o.d. only.

Cribbing the stand with lumber is easy enough if needed.

If your tools let you take two sweeps to total 140°, that will be fine.

 

[Tony1968]

The ARP bolt comes with their assembly lube. I know apples to oranges as stock bolt is different material

 

[Texas82GP]

I guess I'm in the minority. I replaced both the balancer and head bolts with ARP for the ease of just torquing them to ARP spec and walking away.

 

[ostrich]

x2☝️