Trans cooler lines - leaker ....

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WanaBa442

G-Body Guru
Aug 5, 2017
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Got the new rad put in and had to piece in a new section of trans line at the lower fitting as the old one rusted/twisted off when I removed it.
I can not get that sumbich to seal up:mad:
Short of replacing the replacement line, any words of wisdom from the masses?
 

565bbchevy

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Aug 8, 2011
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How did you go about doing the repair? Pictures?
 

g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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Got the new rad put in and had to piece in a new section of trans line at the lower fitting as the old one rusted/twisted off when I removed it.
I can not get that sumbich to seal up:mad:
Short of replacing the replacement line, any words of wisdom from the masses?
Get some 5/16ths hose and use that. Transmission rated if you can.
 

WanaBa442

G-Body Guru
Aug 5, 2017
555
1,315
93
New England
Leaking at the rad connection. Have new piece of steel line with new fitting there.
I have a feeling there's too much pressure on the steel line causing it to not sit straight on the flare inside the connection and the nut is not seating it tight.
IIRC, I saw a copper cone shaped crush washer for use on a master cylinder port to help seal those if the port is out of round or a bit corroded, but cant remember where I found/ saw them...
I'll hit it again tomorrow and take it apart, seat the line first and then the splice.
 

565bbchevy

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Aug 8, 2011
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You didn't by chance cross thread the fitting while installing?
 

melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
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mass
Leaking at the rad connection. Have new piece of steel line with new fitting there.
I have a feeling there's too much pressure on the steel line causing it to not sit straight on the flare inside the connection and the nut is not seating it tight.
IIRC, I saw a copper cone shaped crush washer for use on a master cylinder port to help seal those if the port is out of round or a bit corroded, but cant remember where I found/ saw them...
I'll hit it again tomorrow and take it apart, seat the line first and then the splice.
 
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WanaBa442

G-Body Guru
Aug 5, 2017
555
1,315
93
New England
So, rather than let the thread die with no updates I'll let you know what happened.
I was using a new steel line section from the rad to a compression fitting on the existing line which was in good shape other than where it broke at the rad fitting.
I carefully had measured and bent the replacement line to what I had taken off, connected it to the compression fitting and then into the rad (which is where my leak was, around the tube and nut).
So I went this AM and got a section of NiCopp 5/16 line 'cause it bends easier and figured I could line up the angle of the line into the rad better and get a better seal.
While it was apart I figured I'd try and put a stub section of line in the rad for a reference point and found out WHEN THE NUT WAS FULLY TIGHT, THE TUBE WAS STILL ABLE TO MOVE!
Turns out as this rad was older stock that sat around there was corrosion around the cone seat and the last few threads that would make the fitting seem like it was fully seated and tight, when in fact the tubing wasn't seated fully before the nut stopped.
Kroil, fine thread chasers and a few cups of coffee later we got it all back together, test drive and no leaks :cool:
Just one of those stupid deals where you think new parts are always perfect (even if they're old, new parts).
Moral of the story, check the little things. Nobody like to be known for their motto " We do it nice 'cause we do it twice" :blam:
 
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565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
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Usually new radiators come with everything capped and threaded inserts on the trans lines to protect them. well at least you fixed it.
 
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