UMI front suspension kit CLUNKING!

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Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
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Hmm, 3056 should be dead quiet. Send me some pics of your install at [email protected] and I can see if anything looks weird.
Exactly, all mine are quiet. I'm leaning towards there being a gap so we will see if the guy can get in there with some calipers.

Even a picture would suffice.
 

snakedew

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 13, 2022
7
5
3
Exactly, all mine are quiet. I'm leaning towards there being a gap so we will see if the guy can get in there with some calipers.

Even a picture would suffice.
Could you send me a pic of your a arms? I still dont know exactly where you put the washer to seal the gap your talking about.
 

melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
4,135
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Update. After
taking my upper arm loose, I decided to do some research on the rod ends and firgure out what their called. I found out their called “heim joints” and their notorious for squeaking and clunking. I went to a forum on DF kit car and a guy had my same issue. The thread: https://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/front-end-heim-joints.948/page-3
said I should use some type of dry lube on my heim joints to quiet them. The only problem is that lubing the joints worked for some, but not all the people who did it. Also I found a guy who just replaced the heim joints all-together with some different ones from this site: https://www.kartek.com/parts/fk-rod...8-hole-kmx12-10-nylon-coated-heim-joints.html
Im going to order some of that dupont dry ptfe lube and see how it goes.
with time you may find(given your climate,mileage etc)it'll happen because they're metal to metal and exposed to the elements,they'll pick up debris and wear a bit.
 

Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
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Could you send me a pic of your a arms? I still dont know exactly where you put the washer to seal the gap your talking about.
Rear Drivers side that is ontop of the Axle Housing, the pressed in Bushing on the Housing was short, so had to put a washer in the close the gap.

REAR IN.jpg


I'll do my absolute best to explain this as detailed as possible, I understand not everyone is an engineer..

GAP.png


Now with that being said, check to see if there are any gaps where the Heim Joint with the Bushings is all bolted in. Then make sure the Jam Nut is tightened right. I don't see how I can explain this more clearly other than flying out and checking myself.
 

snakedew

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 13, 2022
7
5
3
Rear Drivers side that is ontop of the Axle Housing, the pressed in Bushing on the Housing was short, so had to put a washer in the close the gap.

View attachment 212839

I'll do my absolute best to explain this as detailed as possible, I understand not everyone is an engineer..

View attachment 212838

Now with that being said, check to see if there are any gaps where the Heim Joint with the Bushings is all bolted in. Then make sure the Jam Nut is tightened right. I don't see how I can explain this more clearly other than flying out and checking myself.
Took my a-arm apart. I have one side bolted down while the other side is showing 1/16” of a gap.
Rear Drivers side that is ontop of the Axle Housing, the pressed in Bushing on the Housing was short, so had to put a washer in the close the gap.

View attachment 212839

I'll do my absolute best to explain this as detailed as possible, I understand not everyone is an engineer..

View attachment 212838

Now with that being said, check to see if there are any gaps where the Heim Joint with the Bushings is all bolted in. Then make sure the Jam Nut is tightened right. I don't see how I can explain this more clearly other than flying out and checking myself.
I took my a-arm apart. I have one side bolted down and it looks like theres 1/16” gap on the other side. I put a washer there. Also I noted you send me pictures of the rear control arms. But I did notice the gap idea and tried to translate it to the front a-arms and see if it works on my heim joints.
 

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Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
5,694
9,504
113
Florida Beach
Exactly, if you have any gaps they need to be filled with something that will close the gap and not get crushed out. The bolt tightening up just by itself will absolutely not fix this issue. Clunk is from the whole thing moving back and forth when the car moves.

Willing to bet that is the problem other's have on the research you did.
 
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snakedew

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 13, 2022
7
5
3
Exactly, if you have any gaps they need to be filled with something that will close the gap and not get crushed out. The bolt tightening up just by itself will absolutely not fix this issue.

Willing to bet that is the problem other's have on the research you did.
Welp, you may be right, cuz your idea just fixed my car! No more clunking on the driver side! Put her right together torqued n all, no clunk or pop. This has been a two month battle. I appreciate the help from all yall. Now I just have to apply the same solution to the passenger side…
 
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