Upper steering bearing

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Mrfixit290

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 10, 2020
9
5
3
I was fixing my loose steering wheel on 1978 malibu when noticed all of my bearing fell out of the steering column. I found the bearings I think I need here

I have a couple of question about the housing that the bearings go in to. Do it look broken or was it designed like that? Also, is it just one set of bearing that goes into this housing or two, noticed the site offers two?
 

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Texas82GP

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Apr 3, 2015
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mc1984ss

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May 18, 2020
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Whoa good catch, that could have been bad. Please post what you learned I would like to rebuild mine also
 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
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Jan 2, 2006
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Note that on the upper bearing that is "hanging out" from the upper housing- it's going to do that because the inner race/cup assembly isn't there and moving around the upper shaft, aka "stub shaft", on the ball joint will do that for you. Once you take the inner race out there's nothing to keep the upper bearing in place but the grease. If all the little balls are still in it, it's still round, and in good shape otherwise, you could clean it, re-grease it, and re-use it. If it's bent or messed up, replace it. There should also be a lower stub shaft bearing on the opposite end of that housing. Obviously the shaft is in the way and you can't see it. That's why you're probably getting both bearings in your kit for that upper housing (sorry, I'm only guessing as I didn't open any links).

However, it's one of those "since your in there on an approx 40 year old steery column", plus or minus, might as well do some cheap maintenance and replace both bearings. They should be cheap enough. If you were doing the entire column, then you would be good to replace all the bearings, but since you're in there for the wobble issue, the upper bearings are fine. A total rebuild isn't hard, but it'll take a bit of intricate maneuvering on some of the parts to ensure they go back together correctly. You still have to take the upper housing out to get to the bolts, so it's ok, you can do the lower bearing on the upper housing when you get it apart. Although unlikely you'll find any damage, check your ball joint plastic to make sure it's still in good shape when you get the housing off.

Your parts look ok otherwise. The upper housing where the bearing goes has some notches built into the right side (passenger side) so if that was what you were worried about, it appears ok from my view.

There's many ways of getting those pivot pins out, like making your own tool, but here's MY suggestion on a buying little tool that makes it much easier.
Lisle tool #19940. It's a special tool just to get those pins out. It's cheap (6 bucks and change) and it makes pulling those pins a piece of cake.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0ZJTC/?tag=gbody-20
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,981
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Spring, Texas
Thank you
You're welcome. Also, there are lots of YouTube videos out there on how to work on those columns. Those columns were used from the 70's to the 90's in lots of GM vehicles. Different models will have small differences but the videos still give you a good idea of how to work on them.
 
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Mrfixit290

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 10, 2020
9
5
3
Note that on the upper bearing that is "hanging out" from the upper housing- it's going to do that because the inner race/cup assembly isn't there and moving around the upper shaft, aka "stub shaft", on the ball joint will do that for you. Once you take the inner race out there's nothing to keep the upper bearing in place but the grease. If all the little balls are still in it, it's still round, and in good shape otherwise, you could clean it, re-grease it, and re-use it. If it's bent or messed up, replace it. There should also be a lower stub shaft bearing on the opposite end of that housing. Obviously the shaft is in the way and you can't see it. That's why you're probably getting both bearings in your kit for that upper housing (sorry, I'm only guessing as I didn't open any links).

However, it's one of those "since your in there on an approx 40 year old steery column", plus or minus, might as well do some cheap maintenance and replace both bearings. They should be cheap enough. If you were doing the entire column, then you would be good to replace all the bearings, but since you're in there for the wobble issue, the upper bearings are fine. A total rebuild isn't hard, but it'll take a bit of intricate maneuvering on some of the parts to ensure they go back together correctly. You still have to take the upper housing out to get to the bolts, so it's ok, you can do the lower bearing on the upper housing when you get it apart. Although unlikely you'll find any damage, check your ball joint plastic to make sure it's still in good shape when you get the housing off.

Your parts look ok otherwise. The upper housing where the bearing goes has some notches built into the right side (passenger side) so if that was what you were worried about, it appears ok from my view.

There's many ways of getting those pivot pins out, like making your own tool, but here's MY suggestion on a buying little tool that makes it much easier.
Lisle tool #19940. It's a special tool just to get those pins out. It's cheap (6 bucks and change) and it makes pulling those pins a piece of cake.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0ZJTC/?tag=gbody-20
Thanks for the reply, I did purchase the lisle tool, I went ahead and purchased both bearings. I noticed pieces of another bearing when putting it back together, so I will just replace both. The ball joint plastic is fine, I will remove the pivot pins again when the new bearings arrives.

The new bearings does not look like the old ones. The part number that I was able to fine was 7844651.
 
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Mrfixit290

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 10, 2020
9
5
3
You're welcome. Also, there are lots of YouTube videos out there on how to work on those columns. Those columns were used from the 70's to the 90's in lots of GM vehicles. Different models will have small differences but the videos still give you a good idea of how to work on them.
Found a good YouTube video that walked me through fixing to loose steering wheel.
 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,088
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That part number you got 7844651 is a rack kit for tilt wheel. Fits 78-88 A/G body. It SHOULD have the right bearings in it. I cannot confirm, however. If you have that kit, might as well use it because the little cast aluminum rack gets brittle and breaks sometimes over the years.

Bearings should look something like this...


What I can conjure up from the parts information, a 1969-1982 uses 5696210 bearings in both upper and lower positions on the stub shaft (no race). 66-68 uses the 5696210 in the upper bearing only.

You will need to reuse the inner races as GM did not service those in the A-body. Should be 1-3/32" diameter.

Edit to clarify: GM has some different "kits" that contain bearings and races, and it varies to what stuff comes in the "kit". But generally, races were not serviced separately.

I have an NOS tilt housing on hand but no need for the stub shaft bearings as it comes with them. But no part numbers for the bearings with it so that's no help.

Sometime in 1985 or 86, can't recall when, there's only one real difference I'm aware of in the way the screw has the ignition lock secured. There's the style with the threads next to the head of the screw and there's the style with the screw threads on the end of the screw. Can't recall which came first.
 
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