I connected the vacuum lines to carb accordingly to the diagram under the hood on fan shroud. I have gas coming out of the ‘T’ section and I know that’s not correct. What’s the cause of that?
Vacuum / Carb issue
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Yeah....that's not good. The T is the front of carb fuel vent bowl. 3/8" line. This tells me your float level is way too high, or the float is stuck or leaking by, allowing fuel to fill up the carb way too much.
Sumpin' ain't right!
Sumpin' ain't right!
First you need to narrow it down. It could be just a stuck float. In that general area where the vent tube is, you can take the handle of a screwdriver or something and tap around on the carb to see if the float "unsticks". I know it's rather backwoods, but it's been known to save the day. If not, you'll likely need to take the top of the carb off to get to it. If it's a brass float, could be leaking and full of gas. If it's a nitrile (foam) float, pinch it with your fingernails and if it's "juicy" and gas squeezes out of it, throw it away and put a new one in. They're cheap enough to just get a new one anyway if you're unsure. You would need to set the float with a ruler. Doesn't have to be perfect, but you need to find out WTF is going on with where the gas is coming from for sure. If the needle is messed up and won't seat, the float is full of gas, or stuck down in the bowl, etc.
Need more info. Did it just start doing this? Did you rebuild anything, remove, repair...etc.?
Here's what I did with my carb rebuild for setting the float. I have the GM "tools" so it was pretty easy, but you can get the idea of what needs doing.
gbodyforum.com
If you can set the float to 11/32" from the top of the float bowl, give or take 1/16", you should be fine. Note the measurement has to be near the tip of the float. Usually there's a little line formed in the nitrile ones.
Here's a video
NOTE: If you don't feel comfortable messing around the carburetor, GET HELP from someone who is. There's the M/C Solenoid, the tiny metering rods, and all sorts of junk that is easy to break or lose when working on these things. I totally recommend removing the entire carburetor and putting it on the bench to work on it. I know it's more work, but if you lay across the engine messing with it, you may lose something inside the engine or it flies out where you can't find it...you think you got it bad now...
Need more info. Did it just start doing this? Did you rebuild anything, remove, repair...etc.?
Here's what I did with my carb rebuild for setting the float. I have the GM "tools" so it was pretty easy, but you can get the idea of what needs doing.
442 - 1985 442 Carburetor Stock Restoration-Refurbish
Finally, the day arrived when my carburetor returned back to me in better condition than when it was sent. I was expecting to like it, but I wasn't expecting the level of detail I got. Granted, the guy is a retired GM engineer and knows carburetors inside and out, but he tends to shy away from...
gbodyforum.com
If you can set the float to 11/32" from the top of the float bowl, give or take 1/16", you should be fine. Note the measurement has to be near the tip of the float. Usually there's a little line formed in the nitrile ones.
Here's a video
NOTE: If you don't feel comfortable messing around the carburetor, GET HELP from someone who is. There's the M/C Solenoid, the tiny metering rods, and all sorts of junk that is easy to break or lose when working on these things. I totally recommend removing the entire carburetor and putting it on the bench to work on it. I know it's more work, but if you lay across the engine messing with it, you may lose something inside the engine or it flies out where you can't find it...you think you got it bad now...
Thanks man, good stuff - very unfamiliar with these carbs, but how much would you charge to rebuild mine if I shipped to you?First you need to narrow it down. It could be just a stuck float. In that general area where the vent tube is, you can take the handle of a screwdriver or something and tap around on the carb to see if the float "unsticks". I know it's rather backwoods, but it's been known to save the day. If not, you'll likely need to take the top of the carb off to get to it. If it's a brass float, could be leaking and full of gas. If it's a nitrile (foam) float, pinch it with your fingernails and if it's "juicy" and gas squeezes out of it, throw it away and put a new one in. They're cheap enough to just get a new one anyway if you're unsure. You would need to set the float with a ruler. Doesn't have to be perfect, but you need to find out WTF is going on with where the gas is coming from for sure. If the needle is messed up and won't seat, the float is full of gas, or stuck down in the bowl, etc.
Need more info. Did it just start doing this? Did you rebuild anything, remove, repair...etc.?
Here's what I did with my carb rebuild for setting the float. I have the GM "tools" so it was pretty easy, but you can get the idea of what needs doing.
442 - 1985 442 Carburetor Stock Restoration-Refurbish
Finally, the day arrived when my carburetor returned back to me in better condition than when it was sent. I was expecting to like it, but I wasn't expecting the level of detail I got. Granted, the guy is a retired GM engineer and knows carburetors inside and out, but he tends to shy away from...
If you can set the float to 11/32" from the top of the float bowl, give or take 1/16", you should be fine. Note the measurement has to be near the tip of the float. Usually there's a little line formed in the nitrile ones.
Here's a video
NOTE: If you don't feel comfortable messing around the carburetor, GET HELP from someone who is. There's the M/C Solenoid, the tiny metering rods, and all sorts of junk that is easy to break or lose when working on these things. I totally recommend removing the entire carburetor and putting it on the bench to work on it. I know it's more work, but if you lay across the engine messing with it, you may lose something inside the engine or it flies out where you can't find it...you think you got it bad now...
After wrestling with this last one? About $14,000. USD. Check or money order.
Just kidding. I'm not taking responsibility for anyone else's carb. I'm just a shade-tree hobbyist. I don't feel as bad breaking my own junk.Dude, even once you rebuild it, things ain't over. There's the final tweaks that you would need to do to get it dialed in while it's on the car and running to make your car run tippy top via an analog dwell/duty cycle meter and automotive digital volt meter. The one I did myself cost me over $250 for the refinishing, rebushing the primaries and all the new Delco parts and rebuild kit to make it happen. And I did 95% of the work myself, other than the recoloring/re-bushing.
There's https://www.everyday-performance.com/quadrajet_carburetors.htm that can rebuild YOUR carburetor and get it ready to go. You even have the option of refinishing it to make it look new again, or just clean it up and do a basic rebuild. Have no idea what he charges, but you can ask. He'll do you right. If not, he'll make it right. It's pretty reasonable the last time I checked.
I highly suggest you keep your own carburetor and DO NOT buy those big box store quadrajets that someone has no clue on how to rebuild.
Without hijacking thread. There is a shop in Southern NH that does CCC and non-CCC quadrajet work. Also sells complete carbs, and some parts. Initial quote for a CCC repair is approx $450.00
AJ Thomas Carburetor Shop (formerly Hobbs)
+1 (603) 635-2415-Matt
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Also Guaranteed Carburetors in FL: https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/T4-477-OEM_p_124.html
They have quite a few already rebuilt & for sale & might have exactly what you need, just bolt on & go for about the same cost to have yours rebuilt.
They have quite a few already rebuilt & for sale & might have exactly what you need, just bolt on & go for about the same cost to have yours rebuilt.
Had a similar issue with my 88 Monte Carlo SS along with the smell of raw fuel when the car was parked. Changed out the canister control valve and both problems were solved.
getting vehicle running. Pull L hose off carb. Rev engine and if you feel a vacuum on it the purge valve is bad
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