What did I do wrong?

James84SS

Apprentice
Supporting Member
Dec 2, 2018
71
33
Detroit area
Put a new Doorman 742-150 left window motor in my 84 SS. I took everything out of the door shell, cleaned the tracks while i had it apart. Removed the old motor from the gear and bolted up the new one. reinstalled everything, works great, just zips up and down. Stops just below the belt molding, then zips back up and stops 1" short of closing. Its not hitting either of the window stops. Is there a step i missed? Is there a way i should clocked the gear differently? thanks for any help
 

5spdCab

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Dec 29, 2019
1,120
113
Tukwila, Wa.
Put a new Doorman 742-150 left window motor in my 84 SS. I took everything out of the door shell, cleaned the tracks while i had it apart. Removed the old motor from the gear and bolted up the new one. reinstalled everything, works great, just zips up and down. Stops just below the belt molding, then zips back up and stops 1" short of closing. Its not hitting either of the window stops. Is there a step i missed? Is there a way i should clocked the gear differently? thanks for any help
I realize you asked this two months ago, and nobody has given an answer. I don't for sure know an answer to your question either, but I would suggest that you double check the part, and the part numbers, to make sure that they are correct. I cannot imagine any other reason why it doesn't go all of the way up.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,675
113
Door open or closed? Roof rail seals and window adjustments can increase drag significantly on the window glass. Can you let off the switch, come back and continue to raise the window?

Are all your switches and contacts clean and good?

The fact that the motor will spin forever and basically has no limit to the travel under normal conditions makes this one seem like binding. There's no "clocking" of the motor gear. Motor doesn't know, or even care, where your window is. If it's not hitting the stops, something is wrong. The motor should push it to the limit of the window regulator gear or until it hits the top or bottom stops. Except when it binds up somewhere and the internal thermal overload cuts it off.

So that tells me your motor may be reaching it's internal thermal overload stop too early or something is binding when it starts to get to where it needs to be and stopping the motor from turning. It's really odd that the window's stopping BELOW the belt molding. This tells me your bottom stop is too far low. Typically, there's about 1/16" or so of the very top of the window arc sticking up out of the inner/outer window seals or it's very close to being flush.

Alignment for the top stops? If you bind anywhere it can cause your motor to stop a bit early.

I'm not there. So I can't see anything. Got any video by chance?

If you have time, watch this vid. I'm not trying to insinuate you did anything wrong, but you know what went on inside your door, and it may help you on adjusting stuff.

 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,675
113
There's also a 30A circuit breaker on the fuse box for the windows as well. Reaching for straws, it's possible the circuit breaker may be an issue, but highly doubtful. Near the top of the fusebox, you should see "WDO" printed right above it. And that 30A circuit breaker should be hard to miss.

Just tossing that out there.
 

James84SS

Apprentice
Supporting Member
Thread starter
Dec 2, 2018
71
33
Detroit area
Stuck my head in before I put door panel back on. The window gear at the very end of both ends of the teeth is just a hair taller than the teeth themselves. This bump out hits the top and bottom of the new motor. That's is what is stopping the window both ways. I'm a few bourbons in so I hope that makes sense. Wrong motor, not clock right, I'm not quite sure. It goes all the way down so I can put my arm up when my son is driving and stops 1 inch short of closing. Close enough for me, don't drive in the rain or winter and don't want to take it apart again.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,675
113
The dorman motor p/n you listed is the correct one. But what was in the box makes a difference. I can't think for a minute that a 10 tooth motor was in the box, wouldn't mesh up at all...

Well, if you're not giving a crap about it, I guess the rest of us don't have to either. Case is closed.
 
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565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
8,484
113
Michigan
Well at least you will give the spiders a safe home for the winter
 
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