What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]

SS_Malibu

Master Mechanic
Sep 27, 2021
379
93
Mesa, AZ
With some good advice from Gbody folks, I got my seats and console installed and operating. I only have to get the cable hooked up to the transmission and it is completely done. While I am under I will give it a once over. So all in all it took 4 fullish days to get the bench seat and carpet out and remove the insulation, then reinstall new insulation and measure for the console and shifter holes, and modify the brackets so the seats fit, and wire the drivers seat for power. If I were a welder it may have been a day shorter. Here are the pics. When I bought this El Camino it was dull weathered white with the saddle brown interior. I hope soon to get it out of the garage and into the muffler shop for some custom work and then it is back on the swapmeet circuits.
Nice job! I can't wait to start mine.
To hook your power, did you only need to run a power wire to the seat and ground it?
 

Chuck Cole

Greasemonkey
May 10, 2017
205
43
Washington
Nice job! I can't wait to start mine.
To hook your power, did you only need to run a power wire to the seat and ground it?
I ran a 12 gauge wire to the fuse box, an Ignition plug-in with a 30A fuse inline, then grounded it to the mount where there was already a ground...cleaned it and got to bare metal. I amunsure whether the inline fuse is necessary, but seemed like a hot wire should be fused. I don't know whether a circuit breaker would have been better but if so, it is extremely easy to get to
 
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Chuck Cole

Greasemonkey
May 10, 2017
205
43
Washington
I ran a 12 gauge wire to the fuse box, an Ignition plug-in with a 30A fuse inline, then grounded it to the mount where there was already a ground...cleaned it and got to bare metal. I am unsure whether the inline fuse is necessary, but seemed like a hot wire should be fused. I don't know whether a circuit breaker would have been better but if so, it is extremely easy to get to
 

CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Thread starter
Feb 20, 2018
1,739
113
Canada
Change in plans for today, Wednesday. Shot a layer of primer red and then touched up the couple of low spots that appeared. Left that all to dry, and................

Expended some serious energy and time wrestling the rear end back under the Monte and rehanging it. The impetus for this was the Fedex driver showing up just before lunch with the pair of KYB rear shocks that I ordered from Summit. With them in hand it was an easy decision to head out and start putting the whole taco back together.

First item on the agenda was to "encourage" the UMI shock tower cross brace to slip into place. The encouragement for it to cooperate came from a 5 pound dead blow hammer and a long *ss pry bar. With it positioned, the next step was to follow the instructions!! and insert the shock mounting bolts from above and let them hang. Originally they had been pushed in from below and I was not at all certain that I could get them to slip in from the pan side but surprise, surprise, surprise, they went. UMI provided 3/8ths bolts but the chassis and shocks are designed to accept 5/16ths so back in went the grade 8 capscrews that had been used with the old shocks.

With them hung, the next step was to roll the complete rear end, still attached to its custom created dolly, back under the frame and start pushing and shoving at it until I could use aligning bars to finish plugging the lower control arms back into their pockets and set the capscrews for them. Nothing tight, just the bolts in place with a nut threaded on to keep them from trying to escape. Re-socketed the springs back into position and lifted the unit up with the floor jack so the springs could seat in the upper pockets. A few more inches of litf and that gave me the upper control arms to coerce back into position. The new upper bushings, the installation of which was the starting point for this whole exercise almost a year ago!! lined up nicely. All the fasteners received a coating of Never Seize. For the nay sayers, I did that the first time when I swapped out the stock arms for the Hotchkis ones and it made dismantling the various bits and pieces a whole lot easier, use lock washers or anti-vibration washers or nylock nuts and things tend to stay where they are put.

Last item on the today to do list was to strip the masking tape off the lower shock studs and snip the retaining straps to release them, one at a time. Let 'em come down to just the right position and jam them onto the stud as fast as possible. These KYB's are gas adjust and have some serious internal push to them.

And at that point, I stopped.

I still have the brakes to reconnect, both the hydraulic and the cables for the parking system, but that is for another day. The afternoon had left me both tired and bent from all the rolling around and maneuvering and pushing and shoving and dead blow encouragement. Fortunately the car is lifted high enough on its stands that I could move in and around fairly easily but I glad that this is not something that I do for a living.

PS; the custom dolly is back to being two wheel roller jacks and a bunch of 2x4's. The wood screws will get put back in the jar for the next project. The brake drum cradles--see the pictures of the whole dolly and its cargo posted somewhere around here--will probably remain as is. They will work on any of the rear ends that see service in my little fleet and that makes them versatile.

Pictures??? depends on how wasted I am after shift tomorrow.




Nick
 
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MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,346
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Made cruise work
Today I will cut and shorten the linkage rod for better actuation.
 
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MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,346
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Adjusted hood latch. Repeatedly cleaned birdshit off my car. Found out my horns are dead after trying to hook them up. Never really put much thought into it, but I guess they do go bad.
Went Beeeerrrrppfftblbtblt and now silence.

As said, cruise works, but has a surge to it. I think its one of 3 things:

1. Vacuum issue, either the check valve i have is too small (has one 1/4 nipple and one 1/8 nipple), it's backwards, or there's a leak somewhere
2. The throttle spring is too stiff for the diaphragm
3. The speedo cable needs lubed, as it is bouncing. Say I set the cruise at 55, the needle will bounce from 55-50, and maybe bounce back to 55-57. I think every time it goes down to 50 the cruise module tries to add that 5mph it thinks it lost but every time it bounces back to 55 it calms down and tries to immediately retract whatever it added.
Made a hokey little extension bracket for the cruise. Eventually I'll find a v8 setup that suits my setup better or fab something up when i have enough time and patience, but now the throttle has full travel. There's still some adjustments to be made.

cruise3.jpg

Also put a stiffer spring in my oil pump.
 
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oldsmobile joe

Royal Smart Person
Nov 12, 2015
1,950
113
mpls
The throttle spring is too stiff for the diaphragm
Please get rid of that single bed spring and a put a purpose made double throttle spring on your car.
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,346
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Please get rid of that single bed spring and a put a purpose made double throttle spring on your car.
That is a throttle spring. I carry extras. I have to find a mix that feels right to me tension wise.
 
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mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
2,891
113
Pgh, PA
  • Haha
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oldsmobile joe

Royal Smart Person
Nov 12, 2015
1,950
113
mpls
That is a throttle spring. I carry extras. I have to find a mix that feels right to me tension wise.
No, thats an accident waiting to happen. Automotive throttle return springs are made of two springs, if one breaks, the other one keeps you safe. Kinda like wearing two condoms when you get lucky at the lumber yard.
This is what you need.
 

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