What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2022]

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Built6spdMCSS

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Jun 15, 2012
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Non HOA life here.

Pulled the front springs and about to give them a little cut down..

20221123_142742.jpg


1" off the coils.

20221123_144340.jpg
 
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Built6spdMCSS

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Jun 15, 2012
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Well, looks a little better.. :)

20221123_164339.jpg


Right rear is 1/2" higher then the left rear. Front jacked up in the air the whole rear sunk down and was level. Got to be something odd..

20221123_164713.jpg
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Welp, of course napa reman alternator took a massive steamy liquid sh*t, random voltage spikes of a few days (no money atm for a new one), then it would be fine, then random spikes upto 15-16v, now nothing. Battery drains as the car is running. My trusty ancient 10si is also dead. I have a cs144 on order from ebay (it was cheaper than rockauto), so the regal is dead until then.c
Are all remans just hot garbage or are my 4th gen camaro fans, and 10" walmart sub just too much for the "94 amp" crap?

Probably a bit of both, electric fans draw a lot of amps at start up and a good amount when running, I have a Mechman 170 amp on the Regal and the Monte has a DC Power 180 amp, both work well.
My charging issues were from lack of output amps at idle with my accessories on and both these alternators do a great job but you get what you pay for.
My DC Power was made to order but the Mechman I bought through Summit.
I agree with this^^^^. Now couple this with a weak battery and you have the trifecta working. The battery is your amperage shock absorber if it has plenty of stored amps when at idle. If it's weak and you're drawing close to the alternator capacity with your accessories, then you'll burn up the best of alternators - reman or new. You mentioned it stays above 12 volts at idle - it should be over 13 all the time and preferably over 13.5. If it gets up to 13.5 to 14.5 when you pickup the rpm's, then that is your battery not having enough amps stored in it.

How are the grounds on the amp and fans, and the main ground to the block?
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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I agree with this^^^^. Now couple this with a weak battery and you have the trifecta working. The battery is your amperage shock absorber if it has plenty of stored amps when at idle. If it's weak and you're drawing close to the alternator capacity with your accessories, then you'll burn up the best of alternators - reman or new. You mentioned it stays above 12 volts at idle - it should be over 13 all the time and preferably over 13.5. If it gets up to 13.5 to 14.5 when you pickup the rpm's, then that is your battery not having enough amps stored in it.

How are the grounds on the amp and fans, and the main ground to the block?
Grounds are good, I think. I don't have a grpund between the block and frame. I do have the negative cable to the alt bracket, 4 gauge wire from batt to fender, ground strap from Bell housing bolt to firewall. Amp is grounded in the trunk somewhere. The volt gauge flickers at idle between 12-13.5, before it would go down to 10-12 with a 12si. I also need a temp switch for the fans, they're wired full beans all the time which I'm very certain is a problem.
 
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Ernest

G-Body Guru
Apr 28, 2016
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Texas
Well, looks a little better.. :)

View attachment 211575

Right rear is 1/2" higher then the left rear. Front jacked up in the air the whole rear sunk down and was level. Got to be something odd..

View attachment 211576
Looks good though....giving it that front rake effect.

Now the front tires looks to be a lot closer to the fenderwell... is the front suspension tight enough with minimum travel so it doesnt rub when you dip some?
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,659
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Upstate NY
Grounds are good, I think. I don't have a grpund between the block and frame. I do have the negative cable to the alt bracket, 4 gauge wire from batt to fender, ground strap from Bell housing bolt to firewall. Amp is grounded in the trunk somewhere. The volt gauge flickers at idle between 12-13.5, before it would go down to 10-12 with a 12si. I also need a temp switch for the fans, they're wired full beans all the time which I'm very certain is a problem.
I’m not an amplifier expert, but if takes 30-40 amps, then you’re killing yourself with a body ground. Be careful of ground offset. Treat the block as the main(priority) ground, then ground the body and the frame to the block. The fans and amp I’d recommend directly to the battery.

Have you considered having the fans on two different switches? One at 180 and one at 195? Also, ground the battery to the block, not the alternator. If any of you current grounds or positive wires off the battery, starter or alternator are stiff (like wedding prick), then replace them.
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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I’m not an amplifier expert, but if takes 30-40 amps, then you’re killing yourself with a body ground. Be careful of ground offset. Treat the block as the main(priority) ground, then ground the body and the frame to the block. The fans and amp I’d recommend directly to the battery.

Have you considered having the fans on two different switches? One at 180 and one at 195? Also, ground the battery to the block, not the alternator. If any of you current grounds or positive wires off the battery, starter or alternator are stiff (like wedding prick), then replace them.
Fans and amp are directly to battery, fans with a relay and 30 amp fuse. Amp has a mega fuse. The way I have the 4th gen Camaro ls1 (according to the guy I bought em from) fans wired is full beans by grounding the wires that would otherwise go to a fan switch. Unground them, fans slow down. Haven't had luck finding a fan switch. The battery negative is grounded to the block via an alternator bracket bolt that threads into the head.
 

Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
5,695
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Florida Beach
I'd be surprised if the front didn't settle more. I'm curious to hear if the ride went to sh*t with those mounts too.
Those front springs have been in the car for 12 years. The rears are new and I'm hoping that drops a hair.
 
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