What did you do to your non-G body project today

[joesregalproject]

So then what would it cost to palletize a 3800 from Western Mn and ship it to New Jersey? Combined cost of the engine and the freight can't be all that brutal and with the mill being test run, you know that you are getting a good mill. JUst me, wondering aloud here.



Nick

Check with Old Dominion or R&L freight. They have lift gate available and their rates are usually pretty reasonable.

 

[ck80]

Did a thing again today. joesregalproject may be right about the illness.



She's old. 2006 MY. 453hrs on the indicator. Problem was the HST is going/gone. 2 of the tires are new, although, floor pad has a bit of rust on rh side.

Still, sold the seat and hood off the spare Troy bilt for $80, then gave $100 for this one. So right now I'm $95 into the two mowers, minus one hood and seat.

I'm wondering if I can Frankenstein the Troy bilt hst into the cub cadet? I know mtd made both, so, maybe there's a chance of an overlap on some of the stampings and attachment points? Either way, probably cant go wrong.

 

[joesregalproject]

Did a thing again today. joesregalproject may be right about the illness.

View attachment 204038

She's old. 2006 MY. 453hrs on the indicator. Problem was the HST is going/gone. 2 of the tires are new, although, floor pad has a bit of rust on rh side.

Still, sold the seat and hood off the spare Troy bilt for $80, then gave $100 for this one. So right now I'm $95 into the two mowers, minus one hood and seat.

I'm wondering if I can Frankenstein the Troy bilt hst into the cub cadet? I know mtd made both, so, maybe there's a chance of an overlap on some of the stampings and attachment points? Either way, probably cant go wrong.

Addictive isn't it? The mounting points are typically all the same, shouldn't have much issue swapping them. The pedal linkages are where it gets messy. If they are both pedal operated, it shouldn't be a hard swap. Keep in mind the brake is also on the axle so those linkages have to be similar or compatible or you'll have to fab something. If you can do it without putting much money into it, that's a $4-500 mower if you can get it running and mowing and you just made a few hundred bucks in just a day or two of labor. Sell the leftovers as a lot for parts and you probably get $50 or $100 depending on what's left of it.

Now is the time for buying, the best times for selling are usually April to early June and then mid September through October.

 

[ck80]

Addictive isn't it? The mounting points are typically all the same, shouldn't have much issue swapping them. The pedal linkages are where it gets messy. If they are both pedal operated, it shouldn't be a hard swap. Keep in mind the brake is also on the axle so those linkages have to be similar or compatible or you'll have to fab something. If you can do it without putting much money into it, that's a $4-500 mower if you can get it running and mowing and you just made a few hundred bucks in just a day or two of labor. Sell the leftovers as a lot for parts and you probably get $50 or $100 depending on what's left of it.

Now is the time for buying, the best times for selling are usually April to early June and then mid September through October.

I've actually got my eye on another.... but he's a bit too high on price for me. It's a Troy bilt super bronco with everything good except a rusted out deck..... and I have a good deck with anti-scalp wheels from the tb42 that would fit.

He wanted $200, got him down to $160 so far, but really only wanted to pay $125. That one would be a 10 minute fix....

 

[joesregalproject]

I've actually got my eye on another.... but he's a bit too high on price for me. It's a Troy bilt super bronco with everything good except a rusted out deck..... and I have a good deck with anti-scalp wheels from the tb42 that would fit.

He wanted $200, got him down to $160 so far, but really only wanted to pay $125. That one would be a 10 minute fix....

It's a good side gig and occasionally you find a machine that you like enough to keep around for a while, cut the grass or pick up the leaves with. Do it long enough and you'll start to develop favorite models and brands to work on and flip.

 

[ck80]

It's a good side gig and occasionally you find a machine that you like enough to keep around for a while, cut the grass or pick up the leaves with. Do it long enough and you'll start to develop favorite models and brands to work on and flip.

So far I really like the old gear drive pony, simple to work on and all.

Wife already asked me if i put this one back together would I keep it and she could use it in hlthe yard.

BUT.

I do find myself getting into it nand doing all kinds of reading TRYING to learn, although I'm still a newb.... weird, I have an addictive personality for activities but not for substances. Go figure.

Guess this makes me Lord Vader to your Palpatine. Watch out world, I'm discovering the power of the Dark Side

Nice thing is unlike my cars or trucks, I should be able to work on and next to them in my limited state without much assistance and it'll let me be constructive.

 

[Ugly1]

The camping boiler sounds interesting, given that the first aussie video used wood as the fuel. Thing here is that both of them will probably howl like dogs on fire once they get up to operational RPM. That Aussie got his turbo so hot it had turned bright orange/red like the flame on a brazing torch. So. both noise and fire violations for the CO's to cite you for.



Nick

When you don’t have neighbors to worry about it, anything can happen

 

[Ugly1]

+1. They used to be a common accessory that you could buy from any Car parts shop. Think they even were listed in the old version JC Whitney catalogue. Seem to recall that my dad had them put on one of his cars; not sure if it was the old Buick or the 63 Impala.

They were made of rubber with copper stripping embedded in it. The copper was exposed and the strap was long enough that it dragged along behind the car. The attachment was just a sort of screw clamp; absolute KISS principle at play so even someone totally devoid of mechanical skills could attach them to the lower bumper flange using a pair of cheap slip lock pliers from the kitchen catch-all drawer.

The why of them was an era belief that cars could generate and accumulate static electricity and that if they weren't properly grounded the static could damage the electrical systems. Any of you recall wearing pants as kids and feeling that snap of static when you slid either into the family car or out of it?? HEY!

Don't look at me in that tone of voice, This was the Eisenhower era and Eisenhower thinking at its finest here.)



Nick

Wasn’t it also for filling the gas tank static too?

 

[CopperNick]

My issues and frustrations with the Van's FI TEch unit are posted elsewhere so not going to relate them here.

Did manage to get into the shop before it got too hot and dropped the second new brake line into position. Had to extract it and re-run it once or twice to get it on the right side of all the rest of the plumbing and wiring but it slipped right back into place and lined up in the engine bay with the ABS distribution block without too much encouragement needed.

Underneath i did have to massage some of the curves and bends to get them to follow the basic path of the old line but got it close enough that it bedded into the factory clamps which then closed fairly easily. The biggest bit of fiddling was to get the other end over the frame rail and shaped to fit into the default path for it as well. After that a bit of twisting and tweaking and the fitting lined up with the hose end and all was well.

The yard man from the Auto Salvage yard that I regularly visit does side jobs and he has agreed to give me a hand to bleed the whole business. It will have to be a complete four corner bleed as i don't know how much fluid the back circuit lost. The fronts pretty much were dry and what I put in for the brief journey from the front drive to the shop bled out on the floor of the shop almost as soon as I got the unit inside.

Tomorrow is a work day so i get to see if all the adjustments that I made to the ECU's programming get remembered or ignored. Think the first thing i will do after start up is to revisit the ECU's learning center and make sure all the toggles for the learn routines are on and active.



Nick

 

[Ugly1]

Truck update. I'll have my heads by the weekend. Tonight Leo picked rust with a welding hammer while I wire wheeled all the bad spots. Then he scuffed the bottom of the cab while I wire wheeled the frame and beat off scale. I'm not going to crazy I'm not pulling off all the lines and harnesses simply because I'm to deep in this thing as it is. I'm just making it better not restoring it. So the bottom of the cab is ready for Rust-Oleum rust inhibitor and I have about 3ft of the driver's rail and some of the cross members. So hopefully tomorrow after work I'll get all the rust treated and get it painted black. View attachment 203983 View attachment 203984 View attachment 203985 View attachment 203986 View attachment 203987 View attachment 203988
It's definitely going to need a left rocker soon but it's not going to get done now. I'm just spending way to much money to start doing the body now.


So these were my weapons of choice this evening View attachment 203989 View attachment 203990
The cup didn't work as well as the knotted wheel and there was only 1 small casualty. When I was doing the right rail in the back by the bed the wire wheel caught an edge on one of the frame brackets and ripped out of my hand. View attachment 203991
It's just a leg I've got another one so I kept going until 9:00. That's it until tomorrow

Rough way to to try hair removal. Not sure if it’s better than 36 grit grinder disc.