What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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Back story to this is that a little over five years ago I decided to update the handlebar controls on my 60+ year old HD FLH to a set of newer units that had larger buttons that my clumsy pinkies could get to while wearing gloves. The original install did not go well. I ended up parking the bike once I diagnosed the immediate issue and fixed it but that still left a lot of schmutz to be dealt with. It ended with me having to move most of the harness connections from between the tanks where they no longer fit neatly and out and into the headlight nacelle. Along the way a fair number of them were changed from weatherpak connectors to Deutsch ones. The Deutsch units are smaller and take less space; a plus when space is limited. They are slightly harder to work with and assemble but plug together a lot more easily than the W-p's which have to have all the pins perfectly aligned with their sockets or fuggedaboudit. I did ride once after that but found that the rear brakes had finally dide of old age and obsolescence. That fact necessitated a complete swap out of the mish-mosh that was there and a plug in of a new GMA dual piston assembly.

Segue to now. For Christmas I bought myself a self cancelling turn signal module. This was self preservation on my part; most current generation drivers have no clue what hand signals mean and tend to think you are flipping them off for being idiots...(well that is true but not the primary purpose...) The SDI unit that got recommended to me had one major virtue; totally self contained and no input needed from the speedometer. About the size of an old fashioned butane lighter, it fit nicely in place of the old flashers but.......... Big BUTT installing it meant I had to deal with the wiring harness and what I found was that I needed to revisit and rework a major amount of what I had put there, not so much because it was wrong but more because I needed to move a lot of wires around to successfully integrate the incoming component into the existing infrastructure. A good multimeter is your friend. So I have managed to progress, and regress, and re-progress, and re-regress and anyway you get the picture. The turn signal module works as advertised, the pink and blinkys, pink and blinky when their buttons are pushed and turn themselves off as well.

Where I am at now is tracing and re-assembling the rear fender harness to the turn signals, brake and tail light. My head hurts, my hands hurt, my back gives me about 2-3 hours of run time and then it demands equal opportunity or it seizes up.

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So just a pair of close ups of what got fitted inside the headlight shroud. All the connections you see are weatherpak units. They all had to be assembled from components, shells, pins or sockets, and the little green silicone O-ring sealers. The default assembly method is to strip the wire and crimp the pin or socket on. Me? I do that plus bark up the soldering gun and add a swipe of electrical solder to the crimp to make sure I have a full mechanical connection. The amount of extra spaghetti you see is a jic bit of insurance if I ever have a connection fail and have to rebuild it; it give me clean wire to harvest and means I am not tugging on too short to begin with wires to get enough non-existent slack to attach a fresh connector.

As for the rest of it, no pictures and not likely to be any. I value my camera too much to bring it into that kind of harm's way.


Nick
 
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Streetbu

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My brother called me last Wednesday, he found a 2.3L Ford turbo eng/trans from an 88-89 tbird for sale. I gave him the OK to go and check it out for me. Some of you may remember my post from last summer, and the old Ford Pinto that I have, that had quit running back in 1996. I have been wanting a 2.3 turbo for nearly 20 yrs now, so I guess that I now have another project to occupy my time (and checkbook).
I took a drive 340 miles round trip to pick it up from him on Saturday, unloaded it into the carport, and plan to start digging into checking it out soon. Will get pics as I begin exploring.
He probably LS swapped the Tbird 🤣
 
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CopperNick

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The neighbor had one and swore by it, or at it sometimes. Biggest nit to pick with them was the lack of a rear frame crossmember to protect the gas tank, if I recall them correctly. That lack or absence kind of made them dangerous to be in if you got rear ended.
 
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500/600

Royal Smart Person
Nov 17, 2018
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The 5-speed 3.55 geared ‘87-‘88 Turbo Coupes ran good. Yours will be lighter and faster. Get the right gears and keep the small rear differential in it. If she breaks go 8” Ford.
 
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500/600

Royal Smart Person
Nov 17, 2018
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Finished the exhaust and bolted in the differential on the ‘57. The axles won’t get here until next week.
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81cutlass

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Feb 16, 2009
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Building some models.

Most of my sales are at expos and shows that I go to between November and March. Sadly a lot of them are shut down this year so most of my business has been through my FB page and mail order over the last couple months. But dang, the orders keep rolling in without me doing any advertising. I had $1300 of orders roll in within the last 3 days out of nowhere. Being it's a hobby that supports my car hobby it's nice but my time goes to model building or car building so it's tough to get time to do both!!!

Not sure what direction the economy is heading, but I'll be darned if people don't want $100-$300 models to sit on their shelves in their farm office. I think people aren't going to sports events, traveling or stuff like that so they are putting their money elsewhere.
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In other news

Terrible vehicle purchase idea that I won't follow up on but it would be a sweet beater. If I wasn't planning to put my SFI 4.1 turbo setup in my cutlass I would stick it in this for sleeper/beater status. It has like 30k miles and looks darn clean.

Since I sold my wagon I don't have a rainy weather sit outside all the time car and I wouldn't feel bad about this. Crappy part is its a crew cab. If it was a 2dr i'd probably jump on it.
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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$390.24 worth of stuff to make the tbird run.
maybe.
its not locked up.
everythings got power that i tried.

i got battery cables, battery, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points, condenser, carb kit for that ugly *ss autolite 4300, and a rag joint repair kit.
 
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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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Ho Lee Effin Shizzle, nizzles! I seen some shjt Today! No pics because this is some real world, outlaw 275/315 drag radial skunkworks action, and my boner is still a chub. As some of you may have noticed, I've been wiring a 52 F-1 for my buddy's dad. Just over the hill from him is where I met "Steve" and, later, "Dave". Mr. Bill just wanted to introduce me to these guys and show me the shop. He said they were big-time, but this is ridiculous. There were 3 full on race cars and 3 cool AF street cars. Also, a Bend Pak 4 post lift- 2 CARS WIDE! 🤯 No pics because I just met these guys, and they probably don't want to be put on blast. "Steve" is a "finisher". He plumbs, fabs, and wires. "Dave" is the "tuner". He does control wiring and computer work. These cars go 3.80s in the 1/8. Check it:
Fox body mustang- 480" billet aluminum SBF with a huge turbo on 275s. 2 full management systems that converse via CAN-BUS. I recognized most of the sensors by their placement, including EGTs on each cylinder. BUT, i had to ask what the gas strut (think hood/hatch/trunk support) thing was between the down tube and lower front control arm was. Turns out that it's not a gas strut; it's a linear potentiometer that measures front suspension travel. It works in conjunction with the laser in front that measures ride height! Wow! I think he said 2500-3000hp.
Next up- 1st gen Camaro: big inch (didn't get specific) aluminum, 8 plug hemi with twin 110mm hairdryers, about 4500hp, 2 speed, air shifted Lenco with a lock-up converter drive. It runs 315s out back.
Both of those cars had Lights Out stickers, and were owned by the same customer. He also showed me the Kevlar braided, alien material lined hoses they use that he crimps, hydraulic/AC style, in some high dollar machine.
Then, "Steve" showed me his C6 in the trailer with the 25lb carbon nose that was custom molded. He still runs gas with an intercooler and is "only about 4000hp". Stoopid.
I kept eye balling the underside of a Chevelle on that double wide lift. Turns out to be his brother's, and is a chalk mark, Poly Glas repro kind of resto, 70 LS5, 4 speed, SS. Sweet. It did have dual Pypes Race Pros with no x-pipe, though. It was undercover, but I'm sure the top was awesome.
Next to the Chevelle on the top side, again covered up, I recognized some Turbo Regal wheels out back. Also spied was a sumped tank with -12 lines, 9", and coilovers. Turns out to be a T-Type Limited hardtop that he built, sold, then his brother bought back for 22k and gave back to him. There's a pic of it leaving at MIR with 6" of air under the fronts on the wall, and it allegedly goes 9.50s when it's not sleeping under the sheets.
Then, there are the old Mustangs, both 65s.
One was a 289 hi-po, 4 speed, disc brake, convertible. What's that, a one of 3? 5? I can guarantee there aren't many. They're the 3rd or 4th owners, but the last one committed some sins in the forms of: 68 Charger marker lights, front and rear, a luggage rack on the trunk and some weird taillight reflector panels.
The other was "just" a restoration. They were in the middle of an engine change. It was a 347 that they couldn't get to stop leaking at the rear main. So, just like everyone i know would do, go buy a Dart block. Sure. That's a 4 speed car, too.
Then, I got my azz kicked by a headlight switch in the F-1. Where did I go wrong,?
 
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CopperNick

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Had to surf back a page or two in order to ogle that T-Bird. We are talking 'bout that nasty ugly more door suicide doored brute sitting on that poor excuse for a car trailer at the gas 'n' go, Rii-iight? The one with the rusty rust and the 1/4 inch thick or so layer of bondo hiding the sins of its former owners in the one quarter panel; That T-Bird? Thinking it has to be around a mid -70's model and that was just about the time that Ford decided to use recycled metal in its panel stampings. Story on that was that the recycled metal had not been heated high enough during the re-processing and smelting and ended up still being contaminated by rust. When the factory combined the recycled crap with the fresh metal, the rust just started eating away. Cars were coming back to the dealers only a few years old with the door skins about gone from rust infection. The replacements weren't much better. GM had similar issues; had a SBC Monza that developed an ugly case of metal acne from having recycled metal in the door panels. Just totally pitted from top to bottom. Kinda wish I still had that car but the factory used the Vega clutch cable bull***t mechanism when they put the four speed in and the cable broke regularly and the friction discs only lasts about two years before needing to be changed out. No garage and no knowledge meant shelling out heavy $$$$$ because the job was a killer and the time and labor to get it done sucked.


Nick
 
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MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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Had to surf back a page or two in order to ogle that T-Bird. We are talking 'bout that nasty ugly more door suicide doored brute sitting on that poor excuse for a car trailer at the gas 'n' go, Rii-iight? The one with the rusty rust and the 1/4 inch thick or so layer of bondo hiding the sins of its former owners in the one quarter panel; That T-Bird? Thinking it has to be around a mid -70's model and that was just about the time that Ford decided to use recycled metal in its panel stampings. Story on that was that the recycled metal had not been heated high enough during the re-processing and smelting and ended up still being contaminated by rust. When the factory combined the recycled crap with the fresh metal, the rust just started eating away. Cars were coming back to the dealers only a few years old with the door skins about gone from rust infection. The replacements weren't much better. GM had similar issues; had a SBC Monza that developed an ugly case of metal acne from having recycled metal in the door panels. Just totally pitted from top to bottom. Kinda wish I still had that car but the factory used the Vega clutch cable bull***t mechanism when they put the four speed in and the cable broke regularly and the friction discs only lasts about two years before needing to be changed out. No garage and no knowledge meant shelling out heavy $$$$$ because the job was a killer and the time and labor to get it done sucked.


Nick
it's a 71. I bought it to replace my '70.
The ONLY rust on this car is a spot on the deck lid, and the rear 1/4s. Floors and frame are mint. even has the factory (I think) dual exhuast. Its way nicer than my previous car.
And while that is a sacrilegious amount of bondo, as far as I can tell that rear 1/4 is the only place that it resides.
 
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