What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
- Thread starter g0thiac
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Remapped the throttle today on my C5Z. Round 1 was good for tip in, but the gains quickly fell off mid throttle. I just loaded up Round 2, we'll see how that acts on the way to work tomorrow. Next I took a peek at the timing map.
22 degrees at WOT 4000+? Ahh, check the PE adder. Nope it's zeroed out. Not anymore. Last I checked these motors love 28 degrees at sea level. Surely 26 here is a good start. We'll see what the datalogs reveal. Should be able to dump a bunch into the part throttle areas too. I find it funny they went through the pain of descreening the MAF from the factory in pursuit of the magical 400 number but were too stingy to put an extra couple degrees of timing in the thing.
22 degrees at WOT 4000+? Ahh, check the PE adder. Nope it's zeroed out. Not anymore. Last I checked these motors love 28 degrees at sea level. Surely 26 here is a good start. We'll see what the datalogs reveal. Should be able to dump a bunch into the part throttle areas too. I find it funny they went through the pain of descreening the MAF from the factory in pursuit of the magical 400 number but were too stingy to put an extra couple degrees of timing in the thing.
Sounds like a stock tune. I know when I turned up the timing and turned on the PE things got more fun.
No just bolted down without the wood mounts
Chicken wire from the 60s but it's getting a retractable top
Tonight I punched out at 5 and killed 2 birds with one stone. Gave EJ's bronco I've been driving to my detailers for a wash and vacuum while I worked on the truck. I replaced the lift pump and it it worked. Much quieter than the old one. Then he'll broke loose codes like I've never seen before. Frantically I searched trying to find the problems. Then the new pump stopped working completely! O.F. what did I do!? So I brake out my test light and start looking for problems. I'm testing and no power to the pump now but the relay is working then I'm wondering is something wrong with my test light? So to test it I put in on the left side battery terminals where the pump gets power and ground. The left battery doesn't light the test light! Try the right battery and it lights up WTF? I'm thinking 🤔 about that time EJ called me and I tell him what's happening. He said get a set of jumper cables and go from one battery to the other one then disconnect power and check it then disconnect ground and check it. Will the power cable hot to hot had no contact then I hook it up regular and prob with the light. Turns out there's a fusible link on the passenger side positive battery terminal under shrink wrap that looks like it's part of the terminal. I cut it open and it fell apart into white corrosion and dust.
From the outside it looked absolutely perfect no corrosion at all on the terminals but under that shrink wrap there was a mess! So I grabbed the bronco and went to the chain auto parts store across the street to see what they had for positive battery terminals. Not much. I ended up buying a cheap universal battery terminal cutting the fusible link off and rigging everything together on the 7/16 not for the clamp for the cable. Cleared most of the codes took it around the building seems to run okay I'll find out tonight cuz EJ needs his bronco back. Then I cleaned up my mess brought the bronco in and put EJ's new emblems on.
Old school script looks way better than the triangle sticker that it came with. They're cheap emblems from Amazon but I must say they're pretty good quality they're actually metal and they seem like they might be powder coated black. I might just miss that bronco after he takes it back I really liked it. For a daily driver something like that could win me over to that blue oval it only has 2,000 miles on it though we'll see how it lasts. Took the bronco across the street gassed it up brought it back and now I'm just standing around the shop waiting for EJ.
From the outside it looked absolutely perfect no corrosion at all on the terminals but under that shrink wrap there was a mess! So I grabbed the bronco and went to the chain auto parts store across the street to see what they had for positive battery terminals. Not much. I ended up buying a cheap universal battery terminal cutting the fusible link off and rigging everything together on the 7/16 not for the clamp for the cable. Cleared most of the codes took it around the building seems to run okay I'll find out tonight cuz EJ needs his bronco back. Then I cleaned up my mess brought the bronco in and put EJ's new emblems on.
Old school script looks way better than the triangle sticker that it came with. They're cheap emblems from Amazon but I must say they're pretty good quality they're actually metal and they seem like they might be powder coated black. I might just miss that bronco after he takes it back I really liked it. For a daily driver something like that could win me over to that blue oval it only has 2,000 miles on it though we'll see how it lasts. Took the bronco across the street gassed it up brought it back and now I'm just standing around the shop waiting for EJ.
Factory original component that had moisture incursion that started the corrosion cycle which killed it. Probably had been dying for quite a while.
Clutch, thinking that by wood, you mean the subframe rails that run along the bottom of the cabin sides, made of oak or maple?? Have to look but think the Snyder's Vintage A parts catalogue has them listed; have the book somewhere.
Nick
Clutch, thinking that by wood, you mean the subframe rails that run along the bottom of the cabin sides, made of oak or maple?? Have to look but think the Snyder's Vintage A parts catalogue has them listed; have the book somewhere.
Nick
He actually has them all the original wood is there and in great shape. In fact I've never seen an original body with so little rot or all it's wood left. The pieces I'm referring to were like small shims at the mounting points when it came apart maybe they weren't factory. Best I could describe them as is wooden rectangle body bushings. We just left them out to drop the body a little bit.
In other news.
My truck made it home last night. I don't like the way I fixed it but it's back up and running for now. Maybe just maybe I don't have to work on it for a few days now.
So does that mean the old pump was still good? Or were they 2 separate unrelated problems?
2 separate problems the pump was always loud and I'm guessing the low voltage killed it. I noticed last night and this morning when I first start out on the road it's still smoking way to much. I'm thinking this tune is still giving to much fuel at idle. I'm going to drive it a few days and see if it gets better but I'm thinking it is going to need a round 3 at the tuner. It's definitely not short on power. Last night I rolled the E-ZPass getting on the gsp and went almost 1/2 throttle. I only glanced at the gauges but I seen about 26 pounds of boost and I was in the mid 2000 rpm range sucked back into the seat and Rollin! Faster than the cars already on the GSP. The way it is now I'll literally never need to take it off economy on the 5 settings.
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