What size battery are you running?
- Thread starter yennchi45
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34 and 78 both yellow and red tops.
I believe both sizes are 800 cca/ 50 ah.
I've only had 1 premature death on a red top I had in my 6.0 denali, but it was under warranty and a quick swap.
In my younger days I would swear by the yellow tops for the fact that you could beat the crap out of them (hydraulics, playing systems with the car off, or just being the guy that left his lights on when he went in for the night). Now the older more responsible me has no preference in either.
Agree, But a lot of batterys have the plates to close together which can create internal short issues. Rule of thumb I go by is what do you need?
An all OEM is different than a car with a maxxed out stereo or a huge high compression engine that needs a mac daddy cranking motor. High amp headlights, different electrical load options?
All things to consider
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Agree, But a lot of batterys have the plates to close together which can create internal short issues. Rule of thumb I go by is what do you need?
An all OEM is different than a car with a maxxed out stereo or a huge high compression engine that needs a mac daddy cranking motor. High amp headlights, different electrical load options?
All things to consider
A little explaination on each. Quite honestly I have run the biggest Wallmart batterys for years w/o a problem. When I went to the Dragster and later the Sonoma, I'm not running an alternator and wanted all the power I could get for the electronics hense the yellow top.
When selecting a battery, engine starting performance or cold-cranking amps (CCA), and size obviously matter, but there are other considerations. Where and how you use your vehicle and the electronic load that your battery supports should be considered. Energy recovery and cycling performance are also quickly becoming important considerations. In some applications, they are even more important than CCA.
OPTIMA REDTOP - A STARTING BATTERY WITH SERIOUS POWER
An OPTIMA REDTOP is perfect for starting applications where your vehicle's engine requires high amperage output in short bursts. The discharge cycle is shallow and the alternator takes over after the battery starts your car. Daily drivers love the REDTOP, as do drivers of classic cars, show cars and SUVs.
OPTIMA YELLOWTOP - DUAL-PURPOSE DEEP-CYCLE BATTERY TO POWER ELECTRONICS AND START YOUR ENGINE WITH POWER
If you're looking for a reliable battery for starting your vehicle and to support a load of electronic accessories, including winches, audio systems, an OPTIMA YELLOWTOP deep-cycle battery is the right choice. The YELLOWTOP battery is also ideal in vehicles that don't have an alternator or have electrical demands that temporarily exceed the alternator's output. It helps meet those high electrical demands until you're able to recharge.
YELLOWTOP batteries provide deep-cycle power. This allows you to enjoy all of your electronic accessories while your vehicle is off, such as audio systems, DVD players or underbody lights. For off-roaders, your battery will allow you to winch your way out of precarious situations. There are also a number of key-off draws that pull energy from your battery, including clocks, alarm systems, digital radios (station settings) and onboard computer systems. You'll be able to pull all of this power from your YELLOWTOP with the confidence that your battery's energy will recover time after time.
Just about any battery that doesn't fail, i.e. broken plates or leaks, is going to git r done if your alternator puts out like your describing above if you have your charging system wired correctly. Meaning have your alternator charge wire go to your positive starter stud and the battery positive wire to the starter positive stud as well. Then run all of your accessories off from the starter positive stud also. Yes, 3 wires on your starter positive stud sized as 565 mentioned.
To give an example from our G-body, it's wired as described above with a 650 cca no name brand battery in the truck. We run 2 Bosch 044 fuel pumps, 2 Intrepid/Camaro cooling fans, a vacuum pump, 2 ECM's with multiport, meth injection pump and stereo system at maximum volume with a CS130 alternator that puts out just under 115 amps. At 6500 rpms and everything running my volts will drop fro 13.9 to 13.3 at the end of an 1/8 mile run - no issue. And yes, radio at maximum volume on the drag strip - it's the only way I can hear it with a helmut on lol.
So my question is what are you running in the car that requires more than 174 amps???
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