Which AC Retrofit Kit...R12-R134a

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crucial118

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Nov 15, 2008
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I've seen kits at AutoZone, but a little weary. Do they work? Does the system need to be professionally evacuated or does a warm blowing ac suffice? Saw a kit at AutoZone for around $55 or so. It includes 3 11oz cans of r134a, a gauge, and boost formula. Think it will work?
 

tc1959

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Dec 23, 2009
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crucial118 said:
I've seen kits at AutoZone, but a little weary. Do they work? Does the system need to be professionally evacuated or does a warm blowing ac suffice? Saw a kit at AutoZone for around $55 or so. It includes 3 11oz cans of r134a, a gauge, and boost formula. Think it will work?
NO IN order to retro-fit properly you need to flush the system clean then install PAG oil (synthetic), replace the all the o-rings with the proper type,replace the accumulator and have double barrier hoses.
You will need to have a good compressor.that is compatible. with 134A. those cheapy kits over charge the system with too much oil. In most case's causes even higher head pressure and usually causes a compressor failure.
Unless you have a set of AC gauges and a high vacuum pump you won't be able to do this properly.
Unfortunately there is no "Cheap Quick fix"
 

crucial118

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So why do they even sell these cheap fixes if they don't work? They gotta work for a little bit or something.
 

9a pilot

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Apr 20, 2011
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Do you have a functional R12 system? What compressor? It's probably a 'gRenade 4'. I converted my 84 GP over when I changed the bad original compressor. I changed everything that was required to honor the compressor warranty. It amounted to two things beyond the compressor. An accumulator & an orifice tube. I also changed the pressure switch set for r134a. The AC doesn't cool as well as it probably did originally. It supposedly needs a larger condensor. I think the biggest culprit is the degraded insulation in the Evap case & the 27 year old creaky vent system. One thing that the guy who serviced the AC noticed was that the conversion fitting on the low side leaked(quite common). His solution was to remove it & use an R12 style hose to service it with. So far, so good. I beats having to drive around with the windows down.
Bottom line..don't waste your time trying to DIY it unless you have an actual machine to evac the system. Better yet, if your R12 system is still working, but just low on refrigerant, have all of the remaining R12 recovered. Repair the leak, put it under vaccum & reservice it with R12. It's pricy, but shops can still get the stuff. The other alternative is a refrigerant designed for older pre 134 cars called "freeze12".
 

Bonnewagon

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tc1959

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Dec 23, 2009
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crucial118 said:
So why do they even sell these cheap fixes if they don't work? They gotta work for a little bit or something.
It's a con job , Buy my EZ ,AC fix all ,and when it fails you will come back to get it warrantied .
They will always find a reason not to warranty anything .
I guarantee it will be your fault, and you will be put on the spot and have to spend 2 to 4 times more money to buy more rebuilt crap parts.
Remember there is always enough money and time to do it Half ASSED.
There is never enough money to do it again, right the first time. :balm:
 

adam6640

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Apr 30, 2008
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The biggest culprit is the fact that real Freon R12 is only way to go and it is readily available you have to ask for it and you have to have someone with a mechanics license to get oreilly's has it,I have done 3 gbodies,Also was schooled in auto a/c,when you convert any older system to 134a it will not cool as good or nearly as fast in stop & go driving in hot weather in a older system like in a gbody they just weren't very efficient systems to begin with,and that stuff called freeze 12 is not real R12 it is junk.
always go with a new compressor the long style one works better for sure,the short radial ones don't last very long, I am in the process of doing my 80 G/A right now and converting the compressor to a sanden 510 which is a bigger heavy duty one more like the ones of today and the stock blower leaves alot to be desired I always replace it with a 2 piece one with the metal fan it pushes more air (O'reilly's)and clean the air box out really good and use strip caulk for the seal on the blower to the box, if the a/c has not been used in a long time check all hoses I would replace the main hose and all orings and use R12 oil ,rub a little on the oring before you install,put about 4 ounces in the compressor 2 or 3 ounces in the new dryer,it doesn't hurt to use a couple ounces more than what is called for, the compressor will last longer, if the old compressor went out it is good idea run a/c solvent thru each component that use reuse condensor, hoses etc. pour a liitle in and hold a rag at one end and blow with air hose, after assembly pressure check before charging.
good luck
 

9a pilot

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Apr 20, 2011
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I recall my '81 malibu with R12 & an A6 compessor would literally frost portions of the glass. It was rediculous how cold that thing would get.
 

crucial118

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Nov 15, 2008
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MARYLAND, DMV
I hear yall. My ac didn't just stop working. I had to disconnect it to attach to the compressor that was on my "new" 350 engine. It used to blow cold, but I had to release the connection to attach it to the 350 compressor( I know I did it the wrong way, but was getting a little frustrated with the swap when I did it).

So, with that being said, should I just refill with r12 or do the retro kit? r134a is readily avail, but the r12 must go to the ac station.
 
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