Window / Door Trim Removal

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Mike231

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Nov 11, 2020
47
56
18
Maryland
Happy Thanksgiving everyone. A quick post before I sit down to eat.
I have two pieces of trim around the door window that I need to remove for painting. I wanted to ask how to remove it before I break something. One piece is on top of the door by the scraper, and the other is on the B pillar. I am guessing that the gaskets have to be cut away. Anyway, here are the pics.
Enjoy your turkey 🦃
 

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Mike231

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Nov 11, 2020
47
56
18
Maryland
I should have cropped the pictures. Looks like only one loaded. I sent them from my phone. I am sending pictures again. I am talking about the flat black plastic pieces.
thanks.
mike
 

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shoedoos

Master Mechanic
Jul 3, 2012
406
403
63
I just went through this last weekend while trial fitting everything......those trim pieces are held in by a series of panhead trim screws which are under the roof rail seal. Some seals are glued in, others aren't - luck of the draw for you......hopefully you don't have to destroy the seals to get at the screws....

If you do have to replace them, take a bunch of pics of how the roof rail seal fits because the aftermarket is very hit and miss with their sizing. I have the Soff Seal version - driver's side fitted perfectly - passenger is about 2 inches short down the vertical B-pillar section.....yes, I managed to stretch the distance but I don't like how it is in tension on the anchors....

On the door window sweeps - that's easy.....roll the window down and with a bit of luck you'll get access to the screws.....sometimes you can, others you need to remove the inside door panel and loosen the window stop to get access....
 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
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No. The gasket on the B-pillar does not have to be cut away. There's a couple, maybe 3 plastic push pins on the end of the rubber gasket on the B-pillar. You can undo those, and carefully use a popsicle stick or similar to get behind the gasket in the channel it sits in. GM usually used a thin bead of sealer to glue the gasket in place. Should be able to lift the gasket out from the channel without much trouble. If it's been replaced and someone went crazy with sealer, then good luck. The channel is held in by Philips screws. If it's a hard top, the channel goes all the way around the window opening. Then one philips screw down at the bottom of the thin trim plate. It may be glued into place with double edge tape, but you should be able to get behind it and CAREFULLY cut through any tape. Try not to pry on it too much or you'll dink it from the back side. Unless you're going to replace them anway.

I'm not sure what you're talking about on the door, except if it's a B85 wide top door molding. That has the outer rubber for the window attached to it. You should be able to open the door, lower the window COMPLETELY (meaning loosening the lower window stop) as to reach the screws on the inside of the window rubber. There likely is a "strap" from the molding holding it with a screw at the very front inside part of the door as well. There is on Cutlass and Regal, anyway.

Hope this helps.
 
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Mike231

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Nov 11, 2020
47
56
18
Maryland
Thanks for the info. The one piece is the wide trim with the scraper. I just didn't want to tear into them before I asked about it. These are the last few pieces to remove before going to the painter.
 

Mike231

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Nov 11, 2020
47
56
18
Maryland
I just went through this last weekend while trial fitting everything......those trim pieces are held in by a series of panhead trim screws which are under the roof rail seal. Some seals are glued in, others aren't - luck of the draw for you......hopefully you don't have to destroy the seals to get at the screws....

If you do have to replace them, take a bunch of pics of how the roof rail seal fits because the aftermarket is very hit and miss with their sizing. I have the Soff Seal version - driver's side fitted perfectly - passenger is about 2 inches short down the vertical B-pillar section.....yes, I managed to stretch the distance but I don't like how it is in tension on the anchors....

On the door window sweeps - that's easy.....roll the window down and with a bit of luck you'll get access to the screws.....sometimes you can, others you need to remove the inside door panel and loosen the window stop to get access....
Thanks, going to work on it today.
 

Mike231

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Nov 11, 2020
47
56
18
Maryland
No. The gasket on the B-pillar does not have to be cut away. There's a couple, maybe 3 plastic push pins on the end of the rubber gasket on the B-pillar. You can undo those, and carefully use a popsicle stick or similar to get behind the gasket in the channel it sits in. GM usually used a thin bead of sealer to glue the gasket in place. Should be able to lift the gasket out from the channel without much trouble. If it's been replaced and someone went crazy with sealer, then good luck. The channel is held in by Philips screws. If it's a hard top, the channel goes all the way around the window opening. Then one philips screw down at the bottom of the thin trim plate. It may be glued into place with double edge tape, but you should be able to get behind it and CAREFULLY cut through any tape. Try not to pry on it too much or you'll dink it from the back side. Unless you're going to replace them anway.

I'm not sure what you're talking about on the door, except if it's a B85 wide top door molding. That has the outer rubber for the window attached to it. You should be able to open the door, lower the window COMPLETELY (meaning loosening the lower window stop) as to reach the screws on the inside of the window rubber. There likely is a "strap" from the molding holding it with a screw at the very front inside part of the door as well. There is on Cutlass and Regal, anyway.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. I think I have the B85 you're talking about. I have a 1 1/2" piece of black plastic at the top of the door and it looks like the window sweep is attached to it. The sweep has about 3" missing. I missed that when looking for parts to order. Working on it today.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
17,595
113
BTW, 20674292 and 20674293 are the wide chrome moldings themselves, comes with the rubber seals installed. Bolt on and go. IF you can find them. Gbodyparts was supposed to be repro-ing these at one time, and just like much of his junk, something happened that prevented that from happening. Have no idea.
 
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