Window Stuck on 1986 Monte Carlo SS

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Atlas

n00b
Nov 30, 2021
3
0
1
I have a 1986 Monte Carlo SS and the window was working fine until one time I put it down and it just refused to come back up. It is stuck all the way down(doesn't even sound like it tries to move) and I need a way to get it back up as I was hoping I could get it inspected and drive it around a bit while on break.

Edit: Got it up with some help from other people, seems like the motor is going
 
Last edited:

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,158
15,324
113
Elderton, Pa
Check the switch plus the socket & the ground. Might be a bad switch or the contacts might of cam off & alway check the ground. Next will be checking the harness & connectors working you way to the motor. Guessing it's only one window.
 

CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
3,357
3,017
113
Canada
So, power window?? First thing would be to determine if your windows take their power from a relay or it is a direct feed, then check those sources for continuity and power. If direct drive, identify what fuse the window regulator assemblies are attached to and check it.

If you find nothing amiss with either of those, then you need to dismantle the inner door panel and remove it from the door shell. This will give access to the regulator assembly and the toggle switch that actuates it. There is a harness plug on the regulator near its bottom and also one on the switch. Before you attempt to deal with them, trying attaching a jumper cable from the door shell to the A pillar, bare metal to bare metal, turn the key to on, and try the switch. If you get action you have a ground problem. No action, check the harness for breaks or damage and the switch can be tested using a multimeter on ohm setting.

If it turns out to be the regulator, well. As installed by the factory they are riveted in place using Cherry Q split rivets and an air setting tool. They will have to be drilled out to remove the reg-motor assembly. Before you do that, you will first have to unbolt the window pane from its tracks, mark for position and remove the stops and bumpers that align the window and lift it out of the shell, then more ahead with extracting the motor/drive. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL REMOVING THAT ASSEMBLY; IT IS SPRING LOADED AND CAN AMPUTATE A FINGER IF YOU GET CARELESS. My local yard suggested that, once the motor assembly is out, that I freeze the sector arm to the frame by using a large pair of Vice Grips, JIC. Worked.

For how it all actually is done on a step by step basis, i strongly suggest the use of a service manual for your year of car. Place called Faxon Literature out in California carries used volumes in various stages of condition.

If you managed to get a car with a manual regulator, then ignore all the electrical steps, pop the panel and deal with the window pane et al. You will still have to deal with those rivets and that sector spring is absolutely lethal if you try to release its tension without having the sector arm clamped down TIGHT.

Beware the door all on its own; it is over 50 pounds heavy or more fully assembled and not much less just as a shell. Trying to take it off to put the door on a bench comes with problems all on its own.



nick
 

CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
3,357
3,017
113
Canada
So, power window?? First thing would be to determine if your windows take their power from a relay or it is a direct feed, then check those sources for continuity and power. If direct drive, identify what fuse the window regulator assemblies are attached to and check it.

If you find nothing amiss with either of those, then you need to dismantle the inner door panel and remove it from the door shell. This will give access to the regulator assembly and the toggle switch that actuates it. There is a harness plug on the regulator near its bottom and also one on the switch. Before you attempt to deal with them, trying attaching a jumper cable from the door shell to the A pillar, bare metal to bare metal, turn the key to on, and try the switch. If you get action you have a ground problem. No action, check the harness for breaks or damage and the switch can be tested using a multimeter on ohm setting.

If it turns out to be the regulator, well. As installed by the factory they are riveted in place using Cherry Q split rivets and an air setting tool. They will have to be drilled out to remove the reg-motor assembly. Before you do that, you will first have to unbolt the window pane from its tracks, mark for position and remove the stops and bumpers that align the window and lift it out of the shell, then more ahead with extracting the motor/drive. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL REMOVING THAT ASSEMBLY; IT IS SPRING LOADED AND CAN AMPUTATE A FINGER IF YOU GET CARELESS. My local yard suggested that, once the motor assembly is out, that I freeze the sector arm to the frame by using a large pair of Vice Grips, JIC. Worked.

For how it all actually is done on a step by step basis, i strongly suggest the use of a service manual for your year of car. Place called Faxon Literature out in California carries used volumes in various stages of condition.

If you managed to get a car with a manual regulator, then ignore all the electrical steps, pop the panel and deal with the window pane et al. You will still have to deal with those rivets and that sector spring is absolutely lethal if you try to release its tension without having the sector arm clamped down TIGHT.

Beware the door all on its own; it is over 50 pounds heavy or more fully assembled and not much less just as a shell. Trying to take it off to put the door on a bench comes with problems all on its own.



nick
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,697
1
12,184
113
Upstate NY
Ahhh, Door Tear Apart 101 class.

Have you ever torn a door apart?
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,697
1
12,184
113
Upstate NY
Even more fun when you get to the rivets...
I recently converted a set of manual regulators to power and the rivets had to be dealt with. But very easily I must add. 1/4" nuts and bolts worked great. I had a crapload of extra SBC oil pan bolts from FelPro pan gasket kits - they were exactly what the Dr. ordered. The hardest part is getting the harness plug onto and off the power regulator with it installed. I notched the doors to gain some clearance for my fat, non bendy fingers.

Forum member 5spdCab supplied me with photos of where everything should mount and it worked like a champ. Shockingly, manual window doors have the holes in them for the power window regulators - who'd a guessed ;)
 
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Built6spdMCSS

Geezer
Jun 15, 2012
5,795
9,670
113
Florida Beach
Yup, both patterns are there. I need to replace the driver's one in mine, it's wore out.

If it turns out to be the regulator, well. As installed by the factory they are riveted in place using Cherry Q split rivets and an air setting tool. They will have to be drilled out to remove the reg-motor assembly. Before you do that, you will first have to unbolt the window pane from its tracks, mark for position and remove the stops and bumpers that align the window and lift it out of the shell, then more ahead with extracting the motor/drive. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL REMOVING THAT ASSEMBLY; IT IS SPRING LOADED AND CAN AMPUTATE A FINGER IF YOU GET CARELESS. My local yard suggested that, once the motor assembly is out, that I freeze the sector arm to the frame by using a large pair of Vice Grips, JIC. Worked.
That part has me wondering, never have seen a spring anywhere in mine, either side.
 
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SS_Malibu

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Sep 27, 2021
1,155
2,018
113
Mesa, AZ
I liked cutting access holes to get to the motor bolts so I could replace the motors on my 79 Malibu. Pain in the posterior end but well worth it. GM punched one access hole. You think it wouldn't have been too much trouble to punch out the other two holes?
 

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