Just curious what everyone does for storing there car in the winter I wish this was not an issue but where I live it is no option and this is my first winter with my Olds thanks and have a good day Jeff from Winnipeg where we go to minus 30 C a lot
winter storage
- Thread starter Jeff Blagden
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First 2 winters I stored it in the driveway with a car cover which was OK but a pain to shovel around. Since then I drive an hour out of town to store both the car and the boat indoors from Dec 1 until March 1 ( temp controlled $120/mo ).
This winter I am thinking of using a friends pole barn. Also toying with the idea of buying a sea-container and dropping it on his land. I long for a house with garage or a bigger warehouse
This winter I am thinking of using a friends pole barn. Also toying with the idea of buying a sea-container and dropping it on his land. I long for a house with garage or a bigger warehouse
Before storing it burn off the ethanol fuel and fill it up with real gas and run that till all the ethanol gas is out of the system. I only use real gas and never have had any problems starting it after storing it. I also grease everything so it's all packed with fresh grease and there is no voids..
Here in Phoenix we store them in summer. Filled with gas treated with Stabil, plugged into a battery tender.
After you have it up in jack stands to keep the tires from flat spotting, old trick is to scatter regular scented bounce dryer sheets liberally under the hood. Mice and rodents hate the smell, prevents them from wanting to nest and make messes there.
Other than that, as said above, battery tender, fresh non ethanol gas, stabil doesn't hurt either, and if outdoors I throw some desiccant in the trunk in case the car has moisture sneak in. Clean it up real good, package tray areas etc so nothing to rot or hold moisture against the paint, one last coat of wax/sealant to protect things, and good to go.
Other than that, as said above, battery tender, fresh non ethanol gas, stabil doesn't hurt either, and if outdoors I throw some desiccant in the trunk in case the car has moisture sneak in. Clean it up real good, package tray areas etc so nothing to rot or hold moisture against the paint, one last coat of wax/sealant to protect things, and good to go.
Wondering about supporting on jack stands. My concern is that unless they're all plumb the body is going to take a twist. By supporting in the suspension, the springs are going to take up the floor uneveness. If you want to support the frame try a triangle method - 2 supports for the rear axle and 1 support under the front frame crossmember - might be tippy though.
Here is my 40 year storage experience details on my 1975 Scirocco(1975 to 2004) and 1995 GTI (2003 to 2016)1986 SS now.
In Toronto, close to the lake, the climate is a little damper during the winter and spring. I have had luck with this November to May storage routine for over 40 winters. The car was washed and allowed to dry throughly with hood, trunk and doors open. Before the storage time the car was run hard to dry everything underneath, the heater run on full blast and run in low gear to heat the drivetrain up including the brakes. I kept my car on wheels, on the garage concrete floor. It was covered and then protected by sheets of plywood and cardboard on top and sides beause from my experience, most body damage is from storage impacts(small garage). Besides a Fluid Film (WD40 before I learned of Fluid Film) spray to the underchassis I also sprayed WD40, Engine Storage spray or and of the Rust Check or similar products into the body panel gaps and available crevices. (Home Hardware in Canada has a great product - Unival Krown KL 73 for a good price). WD40 was also sprayed all over engine compartment especially aluminum parts and pipe clamps. The hood and trunk seams were sprayed with Fluid Film or similar, as well as all around the doors. Auto trans fluid was also used to run oil into vertical seams. The tank was filled and gas storage was added. Engine storage spray was added to the carb at idle speed. Other times I removed the spark plugs and sprayed directly into cylinders. Because the engine oil only had a few thou on it it was kept for the winter and the engine was not started. Battery was removed and charged in the basement. The heater air intake was closed(to keep small rodents out) and windows were opened a crack. Because concrete sweats moisture some people store cars on plastic sheets. I never did. During dry days I would open the doors to allow for air circulation.Lately I use Aerospace 303 on all rubber car parts including tires. From 1975 to recently I used silicone oil on rubber seals and hoses. Tires were kept at normal pressure. If you have any rust patches or cracks in the paint, spray with WD40 to halt or slow down corrosion - it can be easliy removed with lacquer thinner before repairs are made.
Some of you may question my approach but these methods has worked for me and my cars. And, yes, I have Automotive anti rust OCD.
I hope this helps you to keep your things looking good longer.
Here is my 40 year storage experience details on my 1975 Scirocco(1975 to 2004) and 1995 GTI (2003 to 2016)1986 SS now.
In Toronto, close to the lake, the climate is a little damper during the winter and spring. I have had luck with this November to May storage routine for over 40 winters. The car was washed and allowed to dry throughly with hood, trunk and doors open. Before the storage time the car was run hard to dry everything underneath, the heater run on full blast and run in low gear to heat the drivetrain up including the brakes. I kept my car on wheels, on the garage concrete floor. It was covered and then protected by sheets of plywood and cardboard on top and sides beause from my experience, most body damage is from storage impacts(small garage). Besides a Fluid Film (WD40 before I learned of Fluid Film) spray to the underchassis I also sprayed WD40, Engine Storage spray or and of the Rust Check or similar products into the body panel gaps and available crevices. (Home Hardware in Canada has a great product - Unival Krown KL 73 for a good price). WD40 was also sprayed all over engine compartment especially aluminum parts and pipe clamps. The hood and trunk seams were sprayed with Fluid Film or similar, as well as all around the doors. Auto trans fluid was also used to run oil into vertical seams. The tank was filled and gas storage was added. Engine storage spray was added to the carb at idle speed. Other times I removed the spark plugs and sprayed directly into cylinders. Because the engine oil only had a few thou on it it was kept for the winter and the engine was not started. Battery was removed and charged in the basement. The heater air intake was closed(to keep small rodents out) and windows were opened a crack. Because concrete sweats moisture some people store cars on plastic sheets. I never did. During dry days I would open the doors to allow for air circulation.Lately I use Aerospace 303 on all rubber car parts including tires. From 1975 to recently I used silicone oil on rubber seals and hoses. Tires were kept at normal pressure. If you have any rust patches or cracks in the paint, spray with WD40 to halt or slow down corrosion - it can be easliy removed with lacquer thinner before repairs are made.
Some of you may question my approach but these methods has worked for me and my cars. And, yes, I have Automotive anti rust OCD.
I hope this helps you to keep your things looking good longer.
I bought a CarJacket to store my Lincoln in while it is in my buddies polebarn this way my Monte and Regal can both be my heated garage during the winter.
I think the bag was about $235 and comes with desiccant packs, I also bought a tarp to lay down first and installed my battery maintainer and used Sta-bil in the fuel.
I think the bag was about $235 and comes with desiccant packs, I also bought a tarp to lay down first and installed my battery maintainer and used Sta-bil in the fuel.
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