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Just thought of this, did you check your TV cable?

It's normal. If the float only gos so high and you fill it so the gas is say 3" over the highest the float will go, then you will burn that 3" of gas before it moves. Thus the gauge won't move for some time.

I have the 68 and my stock lowers fit right in.

Driving on the street on a 65 mph (75 actual speed) highway everyday I hate the thought of anything lower (numerically higher) than my 3.08s. I noticed a night and day diffrence from my 2.41s but I pay for it in fuel and it runs noticeably hotter down the highway. I turn roughly 3000 rpm at 70...

I vote irocs. They do look good (i may have a bias). The factory wheels look good but 14s don't fill the wheel well right imo.

Ok you got me on the plug change. But try to do a starter on an olds with headers. The olds was nice for not burning plug wires ss well....... But I still say chevy.

I will make people mad. I like chevy motors just on the fact of they are easyer to work on. The wide olds motors make exhaust a pain. Not only that but if your on a budget chevy parts are easy to find for cheep. If I wasn't working on it or paying for it my olds would be olds.

I will say I joined to sell stuff. I had been on the site before just never needed to post because i always found the my questions without asking. Since then I (think) I have been a helpful member.

I have an 8.2 out of a 68 chevelle. 3.08 gears open diff behind a sbc with roughly 300hp. It's holding great and the swap is easy. I used iceman swap arms but if I could go back I probably would have went with the umi arms based on customer service.

Just throwing it out there, camaro iroc wheels fit perfect with the wider A body rear. That's what I am running and the backspacing was ideal.

Rember a g body 8.5 needs a 1" shorter driveshaft. 12 bolt swap arms are less than $200 check iceman racing on eBay (search 12 bolt swap arms) or umi makes them. It's only the uppers you need and a conversion ujoint (i got mine at autozone for $10)

I used the front and rear out of a 95 camaro. The rear back I laid a peice of plastic to starch the back of the seat to then just spray addhesive ed some carpet on the bare areias. As for the bottoms they are Sortof buckets. I hooked them into the factory hooks and carpeted around them.

It's funny if you where to tell me the stripe placement I would think it would look horeable. But it dosent it looks real good and unique, it really does. I like it.

By new do you meen new style or reproduction g body rear seat?

I don't know I tend to do things cold. If its cold leaving the cap on creates a vaccume effect that slows the coolent down. If its hot enough to build presure its probably hot enough to burn.

Just not too worm because it will come gushing out. Leave the rad cap on and it will slow it down a little.

Here's my 84 cutlass. It's driven almost every day except winter. It started life as a v6, prior owner did a 307 swap. I got hit by a jetta and used some of the $ to put a chevy 350 in it. I picked it up 3 years ago for $700 after I couldn't find a Monte ss in my price range. Since then it gets...

I had the same issues. I bought my motor without the mounts and assumed they are all the same. I found a set off of a van on Craigslist so I picked them up. Couldent get them lined up. Looked everywhere for the corect ones and the only set I found the guy wanted $100 for and I was out of funds...

Have you tryed puting a wanted ad on Craigslist? I have done that and found a bunch that people that just didn't list there's for sale. I have been looking for a whole posi rear with the ratio I want for about 3 years now so it might take a little searching.

My 81 cutlass calis with the 4.3 olds v8 is geting a sbc so last thing to do to the boat anchor was see how long it would run. 30 m ins with hole in radiator, hole in bottom of oil pan, held at 2 grand it finally blew. It didn't make to much noise for the first 10 mins or so. And the only reason...