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If I remember correctly that is a 2 barrel CCC quadrajet. Any 2 barrel non computerized carb will work or they do make a 4 barrel to 2 barrel adapter or if your lucky enough to find a 4 barrel intake for the 231 you could go that route also.

Have you tried Realoldspower.com. He's on there quite a bit and the other guys might be able to help you out. I was never a fan of large bearing clearances even if it's above 500hp but to each their own. Just about any olds engine has a problem with oiling so I don't know why he would recommend...

Why don't you just call Trovato and ask. He's a pretty nice guy and will answer questions as to why and the reasoning behind it.

Trans temps should be close or at least comparable to your engine temps. If your running over 220-230 I would start to worry a little but it also depends on how you drive. A deeper pan with cooling fins running 160-210 is pretty normal. I never had a sensor in the line before I usually put it in...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/47205/10002/-1 These are the springs I am running, definitely not on the bump stops, it does sit about an inch lower in the front but I like it.

I am currently running a 455 in an 84 cutlass with a th350, moroso front "trick springs" for a big block and 3 way adjustable shocks. I currently have no frame bracing or boxed but I do have a 6 point cage which helps a lot. The entire goal for the springs and the shocks is for weight transfer...

UMI performance makes the swap upper control arms and I've seen on ebay someone is making them and selling them unpainted. Not too bad of a price if I remember right.

I had this problem in a firebird I used to have, car would shut off when accelerating and then turn back on by its self. Turned out to be a bad ground not letting the current flow back to the battery, put new groundstraps on from the eng to the fire wall to the frame, etc and it fixed the problem.

I put the same 12 bolt into an 84 supreme, it was a 2 door but the same suspension. The 12 bolt is approx 2 inches wider so an inch on either side so your backspacing on the rims will need to add an inch. Other than that it was a direct bolt in except for the upper control arms which will need...

ok, well over the weekend I replaced the water pump with a flowkooler water pump, wow what a difference, you can see the flow all the way through the radiator. I also put in a new 160 degree thermostat which also helped. Running down the road it stays a steady 195-200 degrees with no problems...

The only thing in front of the radiator is the trans cooler so I don't think it's an airflow problem with the radiator, when I built the fan shroud I spaced it away from the radiator enough to get airflow at all corners of the radiator. I pulled the water pump off and checked it over and I...

Long story short, just finished my car it's an 84 cutlass, 455 big block, a/c delete, hooker super comp headers, torker intake, etc. The issue is when I took it out to the gas station (5-6 miles away) it was running around 185 when I stopped at the gas station (it has a 160 thermostat in it) on...

Technically speaking current flows around the wires and yes you are correct by saying that is why we have multi strand wire-rustyroger is also correct in saying that it is more flexible and less susceptible to vibration damage, it's also cheaper to make etc. Voltage is pressure and it pushes...

Where are you located? Harts machine shop in cecil ohio is where I usually get most of my engine machining done and I have also bought short blocks from them before and they are very reputable. They also take things on trade. The other place I would recommend is...

Have the machine shop sonic test the block and they will tell you how much you can bore it. The crank can be turned to SBC as mentioned and then you pretty much have an unlimited rod/piston combo you could go with as long as you don't get too crazy. Most 455s will go past the .060 safely but you...

I seen this engine run during the engine masters challenge a few years ago, it performed really well for what it was.

BIG BLOCK!!!

Save yourself the trouble, get a chevy 12 bolt and go from there.

Stick with a milodon or moroso, or you can have the stock pan lengthened in the sump area for more oil. Chrome holds in heat (not that it would matter that much), scratches easily (ever driven down a stone road?), and if you buy a cheap one (most are foreign pieces of crap) the chrome starts...

1. X2 on the frame strength 2. no real good speaker upgrades unless you build a box 3. rust in all the areas you can't get body parts for. 4. not very good handling 5. X2 on the sticky steering wheels 6. headliners that never stay up 7. dashes that crack easily 8. t tops that leak and cause the...