Recent content by 69hurstolds

But yeah, on closer inspection, they look like SOMEONE used a stepless style based on those dimples. Although it would be so unlikely it came from the factory I'd bet my lunch money that if it were, it was put there by someone else. There were 8 used on Oldsmobile 307s. 2 per hose. Well, that's...

Sorta. They didn't use the fancy, stepless clamps when they built your car. They used the plain old cheap single band style like I posted earlier. You could use them if you wish, though.

Oetiker sells them in two versions, the 10500015 (galvanized steel) and the Stainless Steel versions, 15500015. Galvanized ones are a tad harder to find. But the stainless ones look good and will continue to look good over time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIGJBAC/?tag=gbody-20 I'm redoing...

Unfortunately, the original style 1-eared crimp clamps are/were not stocked by GMSPO for over the counter use- EVER. They said to use a worm/screw hose clamp on them. Even in the parts book like that. The pinch clamps were used by the factory because of faster assembly speed. Nothing else. Sure...

I was of the understanding that you don't solder in the links, but to do like mikester and butt connect/shrink tube them (or seal them up somehow). Reasoning is that hot solder will creep up the line of the wiring and effectively "shorten" the fusible link. Although, under normal circumstances...

I used a plastic trim tool to wriggle the retainer down off the trunk lock after drilling the rivet. Then I changed out the gasket and slid the retainer back in. I just kept one finger pushing on the trunk lock to hold it in place. Then I used a small plastic deadblow hammer to tap the...

"locally assembled" means something different to me. But if it actually works, I'm all for it.

I forgot I didn't even send up a pic of the correct foam versions. There's a slight difference between the originals and the repros. The originals had a tiny punched hole at the end of the foam slit to go over the retainer. What this hole did was to minimize the chance of tearing open further...

The rivets came today. Perfect fit. 3/8" head. Couple of sqeezes on the rivet gun and clamped the retainer to the trunklid without issues. There's your dinner!

Probably made out of the same Chinesium cookie batter.

I'd go 5-6" or thereabouts if I had to guesstimate. BTW, the wiring I mentioned above was specifically for the 84 Cutlass. I couldn't tell you about other makes/models/years.

Stock circuits with fusible links are 12 AWG wire. V6 cars use RED fusible links, V8 gas cars use black fusible links. Since the rule of thumb is 4 ga. smaller wire, you need a 16 ga. fusible link wire. Auveco 12628. GM p/n 8903489 or 8915136, ACDelco #616, and Dorman 85621. Bussman BP/FL-16...

What would Pontiac look like if they brought it back in this environment? Would it be worth it? Car companies have to have a valid business reason today to get cars to market. As a long-time Camaro afficiando (second only to my love for Oldsmobile), I'm very glad they killed off the Camaro...

Ok. My point is, I'd trust the older GM part numbers long before I'd trust those "new" numbers. But that's just me. Appears those people in China can't read numbers to place the right number on the right boxes in the bushing plant. Just another example of what happens when you don't have a good...

Not exactly. https://www.suspension.com/blog/where-are-moog-parts-made/