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Tuned the Regal today, it runs much better with new valve springs and stem seals. I upgraded the exhaust seals to PC type seals.

First picture is the EGR valve vacuum control solenoid. Second picture is the cruise control servo.

Where do you have the base timing set at? It is adjusted the old fashioned way of turning the distributor with a timing light. Stock base timing is 6 degrees BTDC but with mods you may need to bump it to 8 or 10 degrees BTDC. Even stock engines prefer 8 degrees BTDC. The computer only controls...

I He better ask way more than $40 for risking losing his license, heavy fines, and jail time. Both the EPA and local cops run stings on inspectors for clean scans as this crime is called.

You use longer than stock bolts to make up the difference. Still I would weld the plates in.

Is the electronic spark advance connectef? To check base timing you must disable the electronic timing advance. CCC systems did away with mechanical and vacuum timing advance.

I have not tried that, learned about the torch from Uncle Tony.

Nozzle drip is generally caused by having the throttle blades too far open at idle. This can be caused by not enough base ignition advance, not enough idle air bypass, too much fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, or not enough fuel in the idle circuits Sounds like you may need to add more base...

Check for vacuum leaks as they really effect idle quality. Do you have any main nozzle dripping? Even an incorrect flow PCV valve or crankcase air leaks can lean out the engine. Also l would check for exhaust manifold leaks because outside air leaking into the exhaust can throw off the O2...

One of the causes for the shuffle is the stock arm mounted rear sway bars. They don't control the suspension that well and even cause binding. Upgrading to a chassis mounted rear sway bar resolves many of the rear suspension issues. Moreover, a Jeff brace for thd rear chassis helps a lot too...

You can use regular worm hose clamps to replace the pinch clamps. Without a clamp, air will be pulled into the exhaust and fool the O2 sensor into a false lean reading.

Here is what Cliff Ruggles says about these. https://cliffshighperformance.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php/topic,4886.0.html

Discovered my largest windmill palm tree is flowering for the first time. Its producing female flowers which look like green corn kernels. I have two more windmill palms but they are not big enough to begin flowering yet, hopefully one is male so I can get some palm seeds.

The car needs to be on all four wheels on flat ground to perform a fender alignment. Frame sag will throw your fender adjustment off along with bad body bushings. The door alignment must be good to get a good fender alignment. I had to hammer the fender lip by the door in a little to get the gap...

Put the ignition back together yesterday after performing the valve spring and stem seal replacement a week ago. Cleaned the oil fouling off the spark plugs with a MAP torch to see how well that trick works. It did clean them pretty well visually.

Welding always causes warpage, but with careful heat control like back stepping you can minimize it.

Replaced the driver side inner and outer tie rods on the Crown Vic, the inner was loose and had a flat spot. The passenger side rods were still tight but smooth. Took it in for an alignment.

Another issue with aftermarket EFI is that most of them lack knock sensors. Knock sensors are a major tuning aid and the lack of one really handicaps a computer engine management system.

True, but OEM has many more hours and dollars of R&D put into it than aftermarket. OEM systems are also designed more specifically for certain engines while aftermarket EFI is generic one size fits all design. Its similar to OEM carbs vs aftermarket carbs.