AN Fitting Question

And the Edelbrock pump doesn't have its lower half assembled to the upper half using screws so that the lower section can be unscrewed and rotated to gain fitting clearance? Interesting. Be careful with your choice of fittings. There are two systems out there; JIC and A-N. JIC was the system we used on hydraulics, motors and pumps and reservoirs when I worked in a fabrication shop.

A-N is the short speak term for Army-Navy and they are the fitting of choice and design for the military.

Two fundamental differences. Pitch of the thread and the angle of the seat. Both systems offer/supply adapters that are made with pipe thread on one end and your choice of tapered end on the other male x male. if you have a port on the pump that is threaded in female NPT or pipe thread and you want to just screw the adapter in and move on to the hose portion of the program.

However, What your pump may have for inlet/return ports is something called "female invert flare" meaning that down at the bottom of the port there is a shoulder against which a flare nut fitting would seat a flared section of tube. Flare nut thread is +/- the same as male brake line fitting thread. As I recall, there is a 90 degree by flare male connection available from the Parker Hannifin or Fairview catalogues that can be attached to a hose/fuel line. There is also something called a "Barb-sert" which has the 90 degree by flare connector at the one end and the other is a tube end with a series of ridges on it. Assembly is stuffing the ribbed end into the correct ID rubber fuel line until the hose bottoms against the cute yellow plastic collar and adding a gear clamp.

Oh, yeah, if you do go A-N, you will need an A-N specific flaring tool as the one in your brake line kit does brake flares which are a total different angle. And don't forget to put the nut and re-enforcing ferrule on first, or you get to cut your brand new perfectly formed flare end off and do it all over again.




Nick
 
I used The summit brand hard line to AN fitting on my factory steel line when I put the electric fuel pump on the Monte Carlo. The pump held a steady 59 psi and I never had a leak. I have one on each end of the factory steel line and still no leaks.
 
And the Edelbrock pump doesn't have its lower half assembled to the upper half using screws so that the lower section can be unscrewed and rotated to gain fitting clearance? Interesting. Be careful with your choice of fittings. There are two systems out there; JIC and A-N. JIC was the system we used on hydraulics, motors and pumps and reservoirs when I worked in a fabrication shop.

A-N is the short speak term for Army-Navy and they are the fitting of choice and design for the military.

Two fundamental differences. Pitch of the thread and the angle of the seat. Both systems offer/supply adapters that are made with pipe thread on one end and your choice of tapered end on the other male x male. if you have a port on the pump that is threaded in female NPT or pipe thread and you want to just screw the adapter in and move on to the hose portion of the program.

However, What your pump may have for inlet/return ports is something called "female invert flare" meaning that down at the bottom of the port there is a shoulder against which a flare nut fitting would seat a flared section of tube. Flare nut thread is +/- the same as male brake line fitting thread. As I recall, there is a 90 degree by flare male connection available from the Parker Hannifin or Fairview catalogues that can be attached to a hose/fuel line. There is also something called a "Barb-sert" which has the 90 degree by flare connector at the one end and the other is a tube end with a series of ridges on it. Assembly is stuffing the ribbed end into the correct ID rubber fuel line until the hose bottoms against the cute yellow plastic collar and adding a gear clamp.

Oh, yeah, if you do go A-N, you will need an A-N specific flaring tool as the one in your brake line kit does brake flares which are a total different angle. And don't forget to put the nut and re-enforcing ferrule on first, or you get to cut your brand new perfectly formed flare end off and do it all over again.




Nick
Never said the Edelbrock pump couldnt be clocked. I already did that. The issue is the position of the fitting to where the factory line comes out of the frame. I dont think I have a picture of the pump on the motor but looking at this one you'll see where it goes compared to the fuel line. I did all the fuel lines on both cars with AN line. The 81 has it from the tank to the carb. The wagon just has it from the pump to carb due to the position of the inlet and the use of the factory line. Thats why Im considering cutting the steel tube further back to the frame and using the braided line to the pump.

1720577871546.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sweet_Johnny
Never said the Edelbrock pump couldnt be clocked. I already did that. The issue is the position of the fitting to where the factory line comes out of the frame. I dont think I have a picture of the pump on the motor but looking at this one you'll see where it goes compared to the fuel line. I did all the fuel lines on both cars with AN line. The 81 has it from the tank to the carb. The wagon just has it from the pump to carb due to the position of the inlet and the use of the factory line. Thats why Im considering cutting the steel tube further back to the frame and using the braided line to the pump.

View attachment 242350
they used to sell a plate(i don't know if they still do)for edelbrock pumps that replaced the bottom that allowed you to have the inlet/outlet there instead of the sides directly across from each other.those pumps don't fit with these chassis's.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikester
Something to keep in mind a lot of those type of fittings are designed to use that ferrule on aluminum tube as it's easy it to become one.im running this on my stainless hard line to AN hose/feed my mechanical fuel pump.
View attachment 242278
I've used these a lot, usually put a small/light coat of RTV sealant around the brass compression ring, and sinch it down if not they have a tendency to weep a little
 
  • Like
Reactions: melloelky
I've used these a lot, usually put a small/light coat of RTV sealant around the brass compression ring, and sinch it down if not they have a tendency to weep a little
What were these lines attached to? Gasoline and trans fluid will eat RTV over time, gas being faster of course. One of those things that might be fine for a short time or maybe even a long one, but ain't quite "by the book". There are sealers designed for this very purpose but they shouldn't be necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rktpwrd
they used to sell a plate(i don't know if they still do)for edelbrock pumps that replaced the bottom that allowed you to have the inlet/outlet there instead of the sides directly across from each other.those pumps don't fit with these chassis's.
The GM pump that came on the crate motor was much worse.
 
  • Like
Reactions: melloelky
What were these lines attached to? Gasoline and trans fluid will eat RTV over time, gas being faster of course. One of those things that might be fine for a short time or maybe even a long one, but ain't quite "by the book". There are sealers designed for this very purpose but they shouldn't be necessary.
Lately it's been diesel, have had gasoline leak out bare fittings.

Only time I've had anything fuel/oil related leak last a fitting with RTV it's been installed error. Either did tighten it properly, left gaps in sealant, or didn't give the sealant time to cure.
I've been using black RTV adhesive on everything but exhaust for last 15 years of so..

I've pulled few a part after sealing them properly.. you'll work for it lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sweet_Johnny

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor