master cylinder opinions

L05edSS

Master Mechanic
Nov 29, 2022
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the current 1 in my 86' ss as far as i know is a factory part, never changed in 21 yrs i've owned it & has around 72k miles. i've been thinkin its prolly time to do so with old seals and what not. brakes currently work fine and recently was spooked by new parts failure that almost cost an engine. few months ago seen this
and got me thinkin what do i do press my luck with the original part, press my luck with whatever is out there in secondary market or go with a premium brand like wilwood? what are you guys doin? i'm gonna need a power booster too. not looking to go crazy with brakes as i'm fine with factory style brakes and those were done in 19'.
 
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I think that you could do better with a newer style GM master cylinder.

The stock, factory original master cylinder is a step bore design with a 24mm pressure bore and a 34 or 36mm volume bore. The step bore master cylinder is used in conjunction with the from the factory, never been changed, front calipers. Most of the time, these master cylinders give you a longer, vague pedal stoke because of its design.

I would change out the front calipers with new replacements along with new rubber lines front and rear or stainless braided line front and rear.

A replacement master cylinder I would go with would be part number MC390572. This master cylinder has a 1.0" bore and comes on a right hand drive, 2000 S10 truck. This should have the correct outlet sizes to mate up to your existing brake line fittings (1/2-20 rear port and 9/16-18 front port)

Another option is from a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer. It is the same as the part number above, but both ports have a 1/2-20 outlets. For the front port you can use adapter from AGS, part number BLF-20C.
 
I've ran into this before with rebuilds. And like in the video I pulled one apart and new out box was full of dirt and metal.

Many many years ago had the same with a MC that went in an 81 Malibu, basic disc/drum unit. Lasted a week until it failed leaving customer stranded on side of road with full brake failure.
 
Be careful with those brake mods. I'm not anti-mod, but do the homework before just throwing money at parts. Do you trust your (or other's) life with brake mods? If you don't maintain the correct bias you'll lock up too soon or not have enough where you need it when you need it. Again, like cams and heads/intakes, etc., you need a package of components that work together. If you want to maintain the stock look, the later S10 master cylinder will definitely look stupid on your Monte. The master won't sit at the right angle. They had ABS on those later S-10s where the Monte does not. So they're obviously designed differently.

Early S-10's share the same master cylinder as the G-body, so you want the "straight" style newer one like in the 2002-ish era if you're going to go the RH drive S-10 master cylinder route. No need to bother with the early model S-10s if you want that Raybestos MC390572, unless you find an early NOS one somewhere. If it's an older one, you can just swap resi's and you're good to go.

What I don't know, is if the RH drive S10 master is the same setup as the LH drive masters, with ABS and all that. There's no combination valve or anything on the ABS systems so it may not be a fast takeup master cylinder like the original on on the G-body. The 2WD S-10 uses the same brake calipers as the Monte, so that's a plus. I'm not an S-10 afficiando, so I don't know all that much about them and all the nuances about them.

If people are honestly having better brake performance without sacrifice somewhere else using the newer S-10 master, then that could be an option. Brakes are super-important, obviously. Just consider what changing component(s) can do.
 
Be careful with those brake mods. I'm not anti-mod, but do the homework before just throwing money at parts. Do you trust your (or other's) life with brake mods? If you don't maintain the correct bias you'll lock up too soon or not have enough where you need it when you need it. Again, like cams and heads/intakes, etc., you need a package of components that work together. If you want to maintain the stock look, the later S10 master cylinder will definitely look stupid on your Monte. The master won't sit at the right angle. They had ABS on those later S-10s where the Monte does not. So they're obviously designed differently.

Early S-10's share the same master cylinder as the G-body, so you want the "straight" style newer one like in the 2002-ish era if you're going to go the RH drive S-10 master cylinder route. No need to bother with the early model S-10s if you want that Raybestos MC390572, unless you find an early NOS one somewhere. If it's an older one, you can just swap resi's and you're good to go.

What I don't know, is if the RH drive S10 master is the same setup as the LH drive masters, with ABS and all that. There's no combination valve or anything on the ABS systems so it may not be a fast takeup master cylinder like the original on on the G-body. The 2WD S-10 uses the same brake calipers as the Monte, so that's a plus. I'm not an S-10 afficiando, so I don't know all that much about them and all the nuances about them.

If people are honestly having better brake performance without sacrifice somewhere else using the newer S-10 master, then that could be an option. Brakes are super-important, obviously. Just consider what changing component(s) can do.
i'm seeing what responses i'm gonna get as you said i your last line i agree and don't wanna open a can of worms going with parts listed above unless thats a common thing to do. as of now i'm eyeing a delco replacement and this not something gonna do this yr but need to consider it so i got time.
 

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