Throttle cable sticks

lucky 1985

Apprentice
May 5, 2016
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Not sure which forum this would be appropriate for, but here goes.
1985 EC with 383 with Holly Sniper FI unit. I am unhappy with the throttle. At initial accelleration the cable seems hard to move. The cable routing looks too convoluted, with 2 major tight bends after exiting the firewall before laying horizontal into the bracket on the throttle body. The pic shows the cable in yellow.
Anybody have this issue and found a solution?

1723667933058.jpeg
 
Not sure which forum this would be appropriate for, but here goes.
1985 EC with 383 with Holly Sniper FI unit. I am unhappy with the throttle. At initial accelleration the cable seems hard to move. The cable routing looks too convoluted, with 2 major tight bends after exiting the firewall before laying horizontal into the bracket on the throttle body. The pic shows the cable in yellow.
Anybody have this issue and found a solution?

View attachment 243835
I had the same problem with my Grand Prix. I thought something was wrong with the carb but found The cable was freyed inside the jacket and would stick.
 
If you disconnect the cable from both ends, Sniper TBI and pedal (and leave it installed the way it's routed) does the cable operate perfectly smooth throughout it's range?

Snipers have had issues with mis-aligned throttle blades in the the throttle body bores. Some have removed and loosened the screws to try and better align the blades in the bores.

With the cable off, does the Sniper throttle move easily off idle stop screw without any sticking, or binding?

Holley makes a progressive throttle linkage kit for Snipers, but it's more for the ability to change it's default operation of opening all four throttle blades simultaneously, to allowing it to only move the two primary/front throttle blades until you get to about 30%-40% then it will bring in the secondary throttle blades. The complaint is that when all four open at the same time it can make the engine jerk to a faster start from a stop then if it just started out moving off only two initially.

Your saying it's sticking, so you need to determine if it's the cable, the pedal/pivot or the sniper throttle body/blades causing the problem.


HTH
 
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If you disconnect the cable from both ends, Sniper TBI and pedal (and leave it installed the way it's routed) does the cable operate perfectly smooth throughout it's range?

Snipers have had issues with mis-aligned throttle blades in the the throttle body bores. Some have removed and loosened the screws to try and better align the blades in the bores.

With the cable off, does the Sniper throttle move easily off idle stop screw without any sticking, or binding?

Holley makes a progressive throttle linkage kit for Snipers, but it's more for the ability to change it's default operation of opening all four throttle blades simultaneously, to allowing it to only move the two primary/front throttle blades until you get to about 30%-40% then it will bring in the secondary throttle blades. The complaint is that when all four open at the same time it can make the engine jerk to a faster start from a stop then if it just started out moving off only two initially.

Your saying it's sticking, so you need to determine if it's the cable, the pedal/pivot or the sniper throttle body/blades causing the problem.


HTH
Thanks for the tips, 383_StealthRam, excellent advice. I'll look at that progressive linkage too.
 
Thanks for the tips, 383_StealthRam, excellent advice. I'll look at that progressive linkage too.
I ended up buying the adjustable progressive linkage to solve my problem. It has the versatility I need. BTW, it is a kit with a small CNC-bent threaded rod and various pieces, to control the secondaries. All stainless steel, excellent engineering and manufacturing.
 
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