new to gbody - looking to LS swap a monte carlo or regal - start with a roller or a driving car?

paradigm

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 28, 2024
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Always liked the Monte Carlo SS and Grand National.

Been looking in the north east (NYC, Long Island, CT, NJ, PA) for a clean car to do an LS swap to. To save on costs, I am thinking of finding a clean roller instead of a clean running car.

Do you guys suggest going with a roller instead, given that I ultimately want to LS swap it?

What other things to look for when buying these cars? I want to avoid floor rot, rear fender rot, lower door seam rust, basically any rust if possible. I also want a hard top and not a T top. Any other common rust issues?
 
If you have to ask, I'd start with a complete running car-

Make sure the steering and brakes work, the doors close, windows roll up, blinkers work, title matches the VIN....


Rollers are often basket cases. What was taken out of the car when the previous owner pulled the engine? What was broken that they never fixed that's un-related to the engine? What did they destroy that you have to source a replacement of now?

What you save in purchase price you will more than loose in time searching for those missing parts. If you don't care about that time spent and like the adventure, get a roller. The only time IMO a roller is worth it is when it's a drag focused build that already has a roll cage, suspension or light weight (high dollar) parts put on. If it's a street car/cruiser a running car is probably a better starter.



I am a complete bottom feeder on my project cars and refuse to pay fair market value on anything (I usually buy rollers or poorly completed swaps), but I deal with a lot of issues to clean up because of that. Title pawned stuff from 15 years ago with unpaid liens, hacked wiring harnesses, rusted/broken brake lines, bashed in firewalls to clear stuff that was done wrong, missing interior parts, the list goes on.

Plus if its a running car you can enjoy it for a few months/years while you save up for the build.
 
Always liked the Monte Carlo SS and Grand National.

Been looking in the north east (NYC, Long Island, CT, NJ, PA) for a clean car to do an LS swap to. To save on costs, I am thinking of finding a clean roller instead of a clean running car.

Do you guys suggest going with a roller instead, given that I ultimately want to LS swap it?

What other things to look for when buying these cars? I want to avoid floor rot, rear fender rot, lower door seam rust, basically any rust if possible. I also want a hard top and not a T top. Any other common rust issues?
As for avoiding rust in those areas.. not gonna be easy to find unless someone has addressed the issues already. I have a Arizona car that was in AZ its whole life. I have the normal GM door seam rust. Very very light mind you but can see it when looking at the inside if the door. Also have a couple very small cancer spots in by lower rear fenders. All very manageable when I do my full tear down for body and paint. But finding one clean where there is snow and salt...gonna be tough IMO. So just know no matter what your gonna find some. If you find none what so ever, I would almost be more worried someone hid it lol. As we all know these 80s GMs have some super common issues. But keep a good look out and you will find something solid!👍👍
 
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If you have to ask, I'd start with a complete running car-

Make sure the steering and brakes work, the doors close, windows roll up, blinkers work, title matches the VIN....


Rollers are often basket cases. What was taken out of the car when the previous owner pulled the engine? What was broken that they never fixed that's un-related to the engine? What did they destroy that you have to source a replacement of now?

What you save in purchase price you will more than loose in time searching for those missing parts. If you don't care about that time spent and like the adventure, get a roller. The only time IMO a roller is worth it is when it's a drag focused build that already has a roll cage, suspension or light weight (high dollar) parts put on. If it's a street car/cruiser a running car is probably a better starter.



I am a complete bottom feeder on my project cars and refuse to pay fair market value on anything (I usually buy rollers or poorly completed swaps), but I deal with a lot of issues to clean up because of that. Title pawned stuff from 15 years ago with unpaid liens, hacked wiring harnesses, rusted/broken brake lines, bashed in firewalls to clear stuff that was done wrong, missing interior parts, the list goes on.

Plus if its a running car you can enjoy it for a few months/years while you save up for the build.


Couldn't say it any better. I won't lie even with my car that I have been building and daily drove for a long, I wish I would have started with a complete unmolested car.
So many little things that missing or broken that I feel like I'm spending more time and money that could've been used elsewhere.
 
Just saw your post today.

So fuel for thought....

The white one is down here in Arizona, I think the asking is $2000, so might negotiate a little, cant promise anything but worth a try. It's rust free solid car, no hood I think the door glass is there ... not sure, but I believe glass is available. 231 non turbo, 4 speed Auto 2004R. If not, it would be TH200 Auto.

The Brown one is in very good shape, complete, but needs frame work. So frame off would be best. This one probably about $1500 to $2000, not sure might be able to negotiate a bit.

The next white one is fairly complete, AZ low rust typical car. This one also probably around $2000.

The three in a row are in Georgia, you would have to call. Source on those is Craiglist Atlanta, from a couple of weeks ago. Source posted thier IG (InstaGram) screen name.

The next one came through IAAI.com Cutlass Sedan buy it now price of $750. It sold quickly. So don't be afraid to check IAAI.com and Copart Inc.

Don't get tied into having to have a specific car unless you absolutely have the budget for that.

Gateway had a real nice 78 Cutlass a couple of weeks ago, running and driving. Would make very nice LS swap, but at a premium price.

I'm used to Arizona now, so I will "mad max" it if I have too. My issues are cracked dashes, destroyed interior, destroyed headliners. So tear it all out, fix what I can with the dash and headliner, toss the interior, bed liner or Rino Coat the floor and install after-market buckets, driver quality paint. Pull engine and trans, rebuild and replace.

Down here is a Monte, very picked over. Also a couple Regals, also getting picked over.
 

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Last edited:
Is a clean roller even a thing anymore?

Best buy is going to be less desired cars...sedans, BOP wagons, Malibus (less desirable compared to MCSS and GN), Lemams, etc.
The two models you mentioned ar the top of the list (along with Hurst/442 Oldsmobiles)

Mostly what I see for sale around here are cars that have all the mods, but need body/paint/interior. Rarely are they priced to where it makes any sense... maybe if you have a clean cat that you want to add the drivetrain to, but rollers are all rough and overpriced.

Too much "gonna make a race car" mentality IMO, but I like driving mine regularly so I want a nice interior with an HVAC system. Of course YMMV

Examples of people that are nuckin' futs



This would be a decent start if you could stand the crewcab factor



Guess a lot depends on budget and ability

I will say that IMO, interiors are the hardest thing to do, and don't come cheap. I did everything in mine except the actual seat upholstery. Have $2500 in it in pre-Covid dollars
 

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