Diff ID
- Thread starter SoFloG
- Start date
Thank you, sir- I went and learned something because of you. My lack of knowledge on some things needs to be addressed and they're towards the top of the list. I need to attend diff school this year.
If it’s an Eaton style, then it’s rebuildable - meaning if the clutches and steels are worn out, then they can replaced. If it’s an Auburn (brand), then I believe they are non rebuildable when the clutches are worn out.
If the question is how do you know when it’s worn out? The easiest way to telll is to do a burnout and see if the tire tracks are even. If only one wheel leaves a mark, then it’s whipped. And if one mark is substantially shorter than the other, then it’s on the way out - somewhere between good and whipped haha.
Clutch style posi’s require a friction modifier additive to added in the oil if you’re changing the fluid.
If the question is how do you know when it’s worn out? The easiest way to telll is to do a burnout and see if the tire tracks are even. If only one wheel leaves a mark, then it’s whipped. And if one mark is substantially shorter than the other, then it’s on the way out - somewhere between good and whipped haha.
Clutch style posi’s require a friction modifier additive to added in the oil if you’re changing the fluid.
I've had Auburn, and stock G80 gov-lock, go from nice even stripes to one wheel peel. Very inopportune when it happens in the middle of what should have been an epic burnout.
I've had "Borg-Warner" (Early Auburn) pre load spring plate fracture and send parts out the rear cover on my 79 Malibu Classic years ago. Wiped out a pro series Auburn with BF Goodrich Comp TA Drag radials in my 79 Monte Carlo. Went to a Eaton Detroit Locker and aside from the ratcheting noise and being careful on wet roads in turns, I never looked back. I have a Gov-Lock in my 88 Monte Carlo which was added by the previous owner years ago...so far the 305 has not destroyed it.
