CUTLASS Interior refresh project

RICKDIZZLE

Isaiah 41:10
Supporting Member
Sep 16, 2014
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Alright friends. Got down on starting my interior refresh. Today, pulled the seats, seatbelts and carpet. For a 40 year old carpet nothing super crazy found. Was actually pretty dang clean. As expected, I did come across some surface rust on the drivers front floor board and two pin holes. I am looking for suggestions on how to properly attack this issue before putting the new carpet kit in. Here is where we sit today.
Before:
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Seats out:
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Carpet out:
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Here is the surface rust and pin holes.
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What you guys think? How bad is this in all reality?
 
Hit the spots with the wire wheel. For sure more holes. Everywhere else was just top surface rust. Thank heavens.
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I would rather not have to replace the whole floor pan. What you guys think? Think I could use my 110 flux core wire welder to plug those up and the use rust encapsulation then top coat?
 
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Grind/sand off all rust, top and bottom, weld, grind down welds, then use whatever topcoat you feel would be best to preserve. It does not appear the integrity of the panel has been compromised. At least not from your pics. If you were super concerned about the floorboard, then try to snag a clean pan piece from a j/y gem, and cut out the crust and weld in the new. Grind, then topcoat.
 
You have to do same underneath, wire wheel, clean very good and coat using good epoxy inside and underneath. If not fill holes with weld if you are good with doing that. If not get a welder that is.

Mainly deal with current issue and make sure won't restart and rust again. Once repair is done you could use good quality spray bed liner, spray area underneath and inside. Use hair dryer to help dry. This helps protect metal from re-rusting.

Looking at the current photos, show use of wire wheel, need to understand the rust is "burnished" not actually "removed". As 69Hurst stated, the rust actually needs ground off and not just burnished with the wheel. So you just have to do the best to remove without grinding through. If you can work in budget, get a simple Dremel type grinder and work around areas that are pitted, clean very good and layer down a good quality epoxy, or weld.
 
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Thanks fellas. Been working on it bulk of the afternoon. That is some thin metal. Even using the 110v on min setting...had new pin holes chasing myself for a bit. I got a lil over half closed up. But there are still some tiny pin holes. I am not a popcorn welder but shesh this is making me feel like it lol. Should I keep chasing these pin holes or clean it up and then use the phosphoric acid and then epoxy it then coat it with bed liner on bottom and sealer paint up top? What you fellas think?
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Ok so today I plan to continue on this. Here is my plan...flap disc with 80 grit the entire driver side front floor pan interior and problem spots exterior, treat whole area with the acid, let it cure, wipe with mineral spirits, use the epoxy on the tiny pin holes, then bed line the whole inside of the pan and spots on underside.
My only question is if I should flap disc the entire pan or just the bad spots and then hand scuff the rest of the pan. Appreciate the help getting this sorted fellas!
 
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Life got in the way today. Didn't get to work on the Cutlass. 🤦‍♂️
I guess it's good. Looking for input on of I should flap disc the whole drivers front floor pan inside the car or just the rust spots..or if that is over kill and I should just hand scuff the pan before I treat and bed coat?
 
Where there's no rust I'd just scuff it thoroughly. I also wouldn't use truck bed liner, but that's just me. Should this happen again the bed liner won't blister and flake off, it'll barely lift, trapping any moisture underneath. It also makes any future repairs a bit more difficult while hiding the progression of the problem. I used the aerosol stuff in my El Camino bed with "ok" results- it's very picky about surface prep. I used the same stuff inside the entire cab of a '95 4x4 truck and it looked great but I got rid of it shortly after.
 

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