Search results for query: crank

...in another garage right now since I have a bunch of building material in my garage right now. factory was 200ci v6 th200c transmission Factory AC, crank windows and bench seat, all vinyl or pleather interior. ONLY regret is not keeping the bench. I couldn't mount my b&m quicksilver floor shift...

... correctamundo

I was just saying that because mine needs new batteries I think. It started cranking slow randomly a few weeks ago.

...coil and I got the car to run for about a minute (THANK GOD I DIDN'T BLOW UP THE ENGINE) ... then it just stopped again. Won't start. Just cranks. Not sure what it might be. I just bought a new distributor cap and rotor and will see if that will help. Questions: 1) Is it easy to burn out...

Thanks, yes 96 LT1. I guess that would fall under SBC. So my .007 should be good? About how hard should i be prying on the crank pulley? I *think* i am getting all the play but its a tight spot .. also i guess my next move is to pull the transmission. Hopefully i find something obvious in the...

...point as interior not to bad, body panels look ok and has all its glass. I always wanted to do a 377 build and have extra 3.25 and 3.0 cranks. I have several forged 3.25 cranks which I think ends up as 351. And I have a 283 built but never installed, 283 might not be bad idea, it has...

Hallmark is guilty of cranking out out all those "sappy" stories, as Nick put it. Some of them just make you want to puke.

Assuming no puddles underneath? So basically just go through steps of crank-no-start. You tried the old tried and true method of starting fluid and no start... So that points to lack of spark. Try a timing light and see if you get it to strobe. Or pull #1 and put a spare spark plug in it...

As built6spdMCSS mentioned I would look at the Crank sensor. Had the same type of issue on an EFI conversion I did, no spark, no injector pulse (checked with a noid light). With no crank signal the ECM doesn't know the engine is rotating. Hard to test one unless you have an oscilloscope.

...with whichever way I go, but can't decide what engine and trans combo to go with. I can update the current engine harness to add the coils and crank signals using an LS computer. Here's the 3 options I'm considering: 1. Keep the current LT1/4L60E and just update the electronics using a...

...name Fast355. He's made the claim that you can run some healthy cams on the stock TBI tune by giving it enough fuel with bigger injectors or cranking the fuel pressure. Then goes on to say it likes a little more ignition timing instead of the factory 0, he recommends bumping it up to 6, 8...

...heater hose to the nipple moved up front. Also needed a longer PCV hose. I installed the oil fill tube. I tweaked the fuel line more, put the crank pulley on and got the accessories basically in place. I had extra supports for the serpentine belt setup but they won't connect to the RPM with...

...were completely closed. That means the old carb was probably idling fine and adjusted properly. This new one will only run with the throttle cranked open a lot. When I first saw it, the rpm was around 2500, just to keep running. After the last adjustment, it was at 1250. As far as he is...

...are fighting words, but a street car that vents to the atmosphere is wrong. The catch can is just a way to clean the oil vapors out of the crank case. I use steel wool packed in a cheap $25 fleabay catch can...

Since you have a great working knowledge of the 231, as I was getting the cam bearings in, I found them to be troublingly difficult to install. In fact after 2 sets I am still not happy with the result. As advised, I tried to reinstall the old cam to see how it spins, and the first bearing...

Ok. Definitely need exhaust manifolds for sure. If it's the crank I wouldn't bother man, I hear it's not worth saving a later 70's olds block, is that true? 🤷‍♀️🤣🤣🤣

...performance & worthiness. 327: Turbocharge. High revs, long legs. 3.25", 4.001 bore. More cubes makes up for turbo lag. All small journal cranks were forged. 350: Duh. 3.48" stroke, 4" bore. Build for TQ or HP, peaky or not. Million options. 383: Powerhouse. 3.8" stroke, 4.005 bore. Or...

...of the ones I came across. The numbers I refer to is the last three. I.E.: 460777 The basic 305 is a 6 inch harmonic dampener, nodular iron crank, cast pistons. From the outside you can't tell them apart as far as 305 or 350. If you find a 010 block with 8 inch diameter and thick...

...to run... One very odd thing, timing set static, Timing mark lined up, point rotor at #1, cap #1 plug wire lined up with rotor, etc. Checked cranking with timing light, fires 90 degrees advanced... Replaced ignition switch, hoping a contact was culprit, nope... I have checked, and/or replaced...

Guessing it cranks. If it is blockage in the fuel line, start cheap with a new fuel filter & clean out what you can from the line. Might be a good idea to have the line blown out (in a safe way) to clear anything in it. Make sure the feed part of the system is clear before moving up to the next...