Search results for query: crank

If you take the oil fill plug off and look/feel inside the valve cover do the valves move when you crank it?

If the set you bought still has plastic knobs, remember to be easy on them. Grabbed mine forgot they weren't the yellow jackets and cranked a little to hard on them. I also remember some issue with the yellow charge hose not working with the 1lb can adapters. I used another hose I had. My...

Yeah it fits on my 403 crank. I will be using it degree the new Edelbrock 3712 cam and lifters which was very cheap on Amazon Canada.

...a little research, its looks to be either from WAI or Spectra Premium, it ran really smooth though, started the engine within a revolution of cranking with little to no wear pattern on the gear teeth, now set to .020 gap, i did remove the adjustable vacuum advance can and replaced it with a...

...effort to make the oil pan removable without pulling the motor, and also make engine diaper install A TON easier. I finally have pinned the crank to the balancer. Only after wrecking two crank snouts (I’m a bit hard headed if you haven’t figured it out). I’m hoping to make this crank last...

Fuel pump is fine. Maybe too fine. It may be pumping TOO much fuel to the carb. Many of the aftermarket pumps exceed 8 psi. You really only need 5-7 psi, really. Not saying that's an issue, just a possibility.

Hello, For the ones that are LS swapped with headers, how did you route your wiring for the crank sensor? Seems like what ever I do it is really close to the headers. Thanks, David

...in late here. Any idea what size the old rod bearings were? If they're oversized, check for stampings on the backsides. Just make sure your crank is ready to go before you buy rod bearings. I had my crank polished before I bought bearings. My crank had already been ground .010" under stock...

I'm thinking this is my problem:

...The other option is to grab a screwdriver by the shaft and jam it up into the #1 spark plug wire boot while grounding yourself and have someone crank it. If it knocks you on your butt 30 feet from the car, it's good. Ok, maybe not. But if you've ever been bitten by an HEI, you likely won't...

Basically you have a 283 with a 327 crank. The problem with that is a lot of money to get where you want. If you want to stay old school and be budget friendly, get a 350 CID 010 4-Bolt block and put that crank in it. It's a "large journal" 2.45 crank and no mods are needed. Go hypereutectic...

The cam sensor harness wouldn’t be any issue as long as the pins are tight and the wires are good. Seeing the crank signal drop out is a more common problem. Is your wiring is good, then either spacing between the sensor and cam gear or cam walk is the concern. Cam walk sucks to fix, but it’s...

The cam sensor harness wouldn’t be any issue as long as the pins are tight and the wires are good. Seeing the crank signal drop out is a more common problem. If your wiring is good, then either spacing between the sensor and cam gear or cam walk is the concern. Cam walk sucks to fix, but it’s...

...then check for 12v power at the purple (I believe) signal wire on the small post of the starter while you have someone twist the key to the crank position. If you read zero volts, check all the fuesable links. Your definitely getting power through at least one of them because you have some...

...a 350 I would start with the Last of the gen 1 blocks. The 638 or the 880 castings that are set up for a hyd. roller cam and a one piece seal crank. No more leaks by the crank no more whipped out flat tappet cams. ( you can still use one if you want BUT WHY ) no more sloppy dip stick tubes...

Not bad, it'll run that with the base air mass tables setup right. Crank sensor on that engine?

What size trigger wire did you run back to the solenoid?

Yup short flange. My previous post was incorrect, I was thinking of the pilot spacer. That short flange crank with a flat flexplate you WILL need a spacer between it and the crank, with the longer bolts. Then again that is factory configuration, have to see what flexplate you get.

...and that filter sure worries me. On my first rebuild I had a machine shop balance, blueprint, and assemble the shortblock and they never polished the crank so I feel your pain. I forget, are you running a gear drive timing setup? They've been known to add a little bit of metal even after...

The worst is confirmed as fact, the cam dot was at the 4 o'clock position while the crank dot was at 12. In the process I made sure #1 is TDC which also makes #6 at the top of the intake stroke. I have a few more things to remove to get the chain off and it is my hope that with all rockers...