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so, win win. I stand corrected, thank you for the information!

"Car speakers are likely to have 4 ohms of impedance, whereas your home theater speakers will have 8 ohms. It is extremely rare for car speakers to have more than 4 ohms of resistance." - https://thehometheaterdiy.com/difference-between-car-and-home-speakers/

Here are all the A/C videos I have done. Honestly, Just do what you can without the specialty tools and then take it to a shop. It's cheaper than buying the tools, parts, and chemicals in the long term.

Go to the junkyard and grab one from an S10 or GBody and see if it fits. Cheapest option.

I did the roofing stuff when I did my headliner. It doesn't stink and the car stays cooler in the Las Vegas sun. I'm planning to do the whole floor when I redo the carpet. check out the video for install and details.

I took her out and let her eat!! Check it out!!

Here is my other ride again

I'm not sure if you were asking for help or anything. . . but here is a video on doing A/C repairs if you're interested.

So, I failed on this. The parts car that SRD art found had already been crushed, likely before he even found it on the website. I went around to a few of my local parts yards and though I found a sweet lid at one of the U-Pull it yards. I didn't realize the trunk lids for 2 door regals were 19.5...

Here is the thread with the supercharger install. https://gbodyforum.com/threads/supercharger-on-a-malibu-wagon.72760/

Here is my non-gbody project. I guess my non-gbody project is really making videos.

I have a 350 with the 144 blower. Check out the videos in the signature and on my channel for what I've done and feel free to ask questions.

So, a bunch of stuff went in to this fix 1. converter lockup controller had a loose connection I had the B&M Lock-up controller dangling under the dash. Even though the green light was on the converter was still slipping. If I was in 3rd gear, it wasn't a huge deal but I'll get to that next...

My beater wagon achievers Drag Racing GLORY!! . . .at least in my eyes. . . | #FamilyBurnoutWagon EP16 With the new converter I hit the loose goal I laid out in the previous post.

The problems At the track the speed and rpm don't line up. 4th gear at WOT, and I'm passing the traps in the 70's for MPH. For some reason, the converter doesn't stay locked up on the highway in fourth at WOT. By that I mean RPM climbs without a corresponding increase in speed. I have a B&M...

This is all very sound advice. I would add, from experience, just replace the condenser when switching from R12 to 134A or if it hasnt been replaced in more than 5 years. The PAG oil congeals when it breaks down and basically clogs the system. If the A/C pump has ever failed and produced metal...

I put together a couple videos a few years ago that might help. Buying the tools is more expensive than having it done by a pro in most cases. Unless you plan on doing it regularly. But once the actual system is serviced, it's all electrical troubleshooting.

That is the kind of thought process I was using. Anyone else think it's not the trans, or have any insight why it shouldn't be ruled out. Also, trans fluid is full and bright red, not burnt.

what led you to get that converter? which one is it, what's it behind and in front of, primary use, what do you think?