I’ve got blazer spindles & calipers on my car with UMI tubular upper & lower control arms on my car with no such issues. However, only have 1/2” taller upper Ball joints in my set up
Here’s what was used on my chassis / engine bay clean up.
It’s been used by many before me & stands the test of time.
If your prep / clean up the surface with lacquer thinner , it will stick like glue .
I gave up on the copper crush washers on my brakes / calipers.
Went with these stat-o-seal washers & problem solved.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-178006erl
Here’s a kick *ss fuel pump set up , Just recently released
https://fullthrottlespeed.com/products/racetronix-dpfs-g71050-g7-turbo-buick-g-body-dual-fuel-pump-assembly-900-1050-lph
Guess it really depends on your goals.
Street, Race Track, Pro Touring, etc
*small DBB turbo like Precision 5858 with S ported shroud
* 60# or 80# injectors
*LS1 or LT1 MAF & translator
* adjustable fuel pressure regulator (I like Kirban’s)
*adjustable wastegate actuator (low boost / high...
I used some pre made sections from Inline Tube which were satisfactory , other areas I bent & flared my own lines using NiCop (Nickel Copper) lines as they can be bent easily by hand & are a breeze to flare using my Eastwood flaring tool...
Perhaps you’ve got the larger 7/8”bore rear brake cylinders installed (off a manual S-10 pick up truck)? Vs the originally supplied 3/4” bore cylinders?
Unless the last valve job has your installed seat heights all over the map.
Spend the few bucks it costs for a push rod checker so you can determine the exact length after adding your (0.030”-0.050” lifter pre-load).
No need to second guess this critical measurement , you wanna get it right the...
I don’t understand what all the fuss is about . I installed my QA-1 coil overs (same design as Viking’s) & used Viking springs & they bolted in , easy peasy .
Did not need to cut or trim anything .
Been working fine for over 3 years now
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