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Also check your rear framerail bushings and bolts. I have a broken bolt on one in OldsCool that manifests itself every once in a while over bumps.

I just recently ordered some sequential DigiTails for my front bumper signal lights, they’re estimating a 2 month delivery date. Hopefully they can turn yours around quicker, but I wouldn’t hold my breath.

Don’t forget to safety wire all your bolts too. It’s cheap insurance.

Yeah, if it was soft it was most likely seam sealer. It’s worth mentioning too, that in my experiences with G bodies I’ve found that they used several different types of seam sealers, depending on the application. Some remained soft and flexible, some were very hard and of an odd consistency...

Some cars may have had filler there, but it was usually the hardtop non-vinyl roof ones. More often than not, the seam was sloppily filled with thick seam sealer at the factory on the vinyl roof cars. It was getting covered up anyways so they just didn’t care. As long as it was sealed up...

My point is, that history, that ever so important history, is slowly being forgotten already. I’m willing to bet there’s not one Gen Z or Milennial that could tell you who the Raiders were. They’re all too wrapped up in their own personal lives and glued to their phones to see “what’s trending...

You’d be hard pressed to find anyone that knew who the Doolittle Raiders were nowadays and why it was such a big deal at the time. 😔

Been a slow week on the forum here by the looks of things, and a slow week in The Skunkworks too due to fulfilling other obligations for my dad and his motorcycle. But, I’ve already started making plans for the next item on the hit list, I’ll be going after the front bumper and related filler...

My gawd. I’ve never seen flat tappet hydraulic lifters that bad before. It’s a miracle that thing even ran!

Thank you! I’m slowly getting used to them, after having the stock mirrors shaved off for so many years I got used to how it looked without them. I’m more than happy with the look of these, and now having the modern convenience of power adjustable mirrors is just icing on the cake. Keen...

The aero mirrors are da bomb now! All the cool kids are rocking them!! 😎

At this point, the harness was as completed as I could get it on the bench. Time to install it in the car. Placed the switch roughly where I think it might go… …then along the planned route and through the factory plastic conduit. So far, so good. Now to attach the mirror plug...

It’s been a busy several days in The Skunkworks since getting the doors and mirrors into high build primer. After giving them time to dry and cure, I unmasked everything and mounted the mirrors back on the car. I’m getting more and more used to seeing them on there now and they’re looking more...

This got me one step closer, but it only worked with the RH mirror. When I swapped those same two wires on the LH side, all the functions on that mirror were reversed again. The RH mirror is now functioning 100% correctly though! So I restored the LH mirror C and D wires back to their original...

Yeah, it’s definitely odd to be sure. But it’s also apparently not the first time this has occurred to other people. My searches of the web have resulted in many people reporting the same types of issues with no resolution. If we can get this figured out, I think we’ll be among the first. I’m...

Well, we’re much closer now! I swapped A and D at the mirror plug by de-pinning and re-pinning them, but that resulted in zero reaction from either mirror. So I went back into each plug and swapped B and C as well. That resulted in the left and right movements being correct in each mirror...

No, get Corvette out of your head entirely, these are most definitely 3rd Gen F body, specifically 1990 Camaro. I know because I bought them from a Camaro specialist. The switch and mirror motors both. This is the switch:

You’re saying repin the motor plugs swapping D with A?

Unfortunately neither of these combinations are correct. I tried both tonight. After extensive testing of all the circuits and their functions, this is what I’ve determined: The closest I can get it to being correct is how I currently have it wired: Orange (terminal A on switch) to +12V...

Thanks for the clarification. The switch plug is original GM, so it most likely will have them, but I will have to confirm a bit later. Each mirror plug has terminal letters on them that are legible for sure.