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Scraped up a crusty l67 off the bottom of the marketplace for $250. Popped up on marketplace around lunch Friday. Picked up the engine today. Spins over nice, plugs were used but decent, 160k, slipping trans. Blower and accessories have some corrosion but for what we're doing, no problem!

You can just google 'rock auto discount code' and retailmenot always has like a dozen. Some don't work but I've always found at least 1 that does.

Agreed, it sucks but we can fix mechanical stuff, body work is a problem haha. Dad found a good l67 locally for $800. It's more than we'd want to pay, I think we got the original l67 for $175 back in 2010. The cheapest salvage yard l67 is $400 + tax + core so a $800 lower mile unit from a...

Finally success. The last recommended action from the converter supplier was to air hammer the converter and try to spin it off. Saturday I tried it to no avail. I got approval to cut the converter. I made an arm to position my grinder and cut the weld. It was a bit of a fuss but I got it off...

Bummer news on the fireturd. This winter has been very dry so Dad's been using the car through the warmer days. Dad was about 30 miles from home getting supplies about 6 weeks ago and the engine started running really bad and had a dead miss. Limped it home, I talked to him in the phone a bit...

1 grey cutlass sport wheel that needs recovered with your choice of grey or maroon/claret horn button $50 for the wheel $30 for either horn button $70 if you want the wheel and either horn button Located in MSP area. Will ship.

So there are two types of OEM proportioning valves- G bodies have the Kelsey Hayes style (cast iron) The aftermarket brass ones are Bendix The bendix ones you can gut (convert from disk-drum to disk-disk, but the OEM Kelsey Hayes you can't. Summit/wilwood offer an adjustable prop valve that...

FTI is stepping up and said whoevers fault it is, it doesn't matter and I can ship what I got back to them on their cost and they will ship me a 27 spline correct unit, good service on their end. My problem is that I pulled the trans out of the car Thursday and couldn't get the converter off...

Cute little lathe! Once you have one you don't know how you lived without one

Well after soul searching (and searching my email inbox) I was delivered the wrong converter. Not sure if I wasn't clear to the sales guy, he didn't understand, fat fingers, IDK, but they built a 30 spline converter. I need a 27 spline. I didn't look at the invoice in detail enough to see that...

It's probably fine. A china made Timken isn't any worse than SKF, Schaeffler or anything else made recently. A 1990's Timken sure but today they are all the same. The big difference between old timken and new timken is that old Timken used to do their steel & bearing manufacturing under the...

Well I've been plugging away and got the car started Sunday. The wheels didn't turn but I ran out of trans fluid, the level was low, so I chocked that up to low level. Added another few qts last night and it's full, but the wheels still don't spin. I have great line pressure, 110psi at idle...

I have a 3 speed center console shifter gear indicator plate in my cutlass. It originally came with a th200 I have a 2004r in the car and I swapped the detent plate out for the 2004r one so I have all 4 gears that align to the trans. Obviously the detents don't line up with the gear indicator...

More diddly squat update. Replaced the combo rubber/steel trans cooler lines dad and I built 15 years ago with some gm steel bent set I pulled outta the 2+2. The rubber hoses were too long for the 2004r as they were for the th350 I originally had in the car. Spent too much time cleaning off the...

The actual bar bushings? I think I just got replacement GM rubber ones on rock auto.

Swapped speedometer gears, between the 2 2004rs I had I was able to make a set that will work for a 3.73 gear Installed trans filter Calibrated dipstick, this is a th350 bop stick and it was 1.75" too short. Oil level should be 1/4" above the pan rail. Installed rear and sway bar Installed...

Those are my pictures when the bar was on my 2+2. I took another set last night of the bar on my cutlass but it's identical. There was a guy on here that used a different end link and yeah, he also welded another brace in the top to support the end link. I got lazy on both my 2+2 and the cutlass...

I literally just installed that blazer bar on my cutlass Sunday. I had it on my 2+2 for ~4yrs but it launches to hard at the track and was overcoming the stiffness of the blazer bar and I swapped to a CPP bar. Anyways, yes, and 2 DR, 4wd or 2wd bar works. I have it on an 8.5: and it's fine...

Bought new axle shafts and that solved my wiggly rotor issue. Buttoned up the brake lines and filled the rear with some 80/90 Replaced bushings in the control arms and installed the rear in the car. I need to get the speedometer gear swapped and trans filter on and the trans can go back in the...

This is the aftermarket adjustable one I mentioned. If I swapped from an OEM cast iron one, that's one of the few I would consider. I ended up putting my OEM cast iron one back on (with the residual pressure valve removed) and reinstalled on my 2+2 after the brass one failed for my rear disk...