Selling my 1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme after the original V6 lost oil pressure and now has a nasty rod knock. The car is solid, unmolested, and not a Michigan rust-bucket. It spent most of its life in Tennessee, I bought it in 2015 when it was brought back here, and it has yet to see Michigan winter roads. I have a lot of paperwork documenting it’s history, including the original receipt from the dealership when it was purchased on 8/3/1983 in Knoxville
I removed all of the wide, stainless , lower body moldings over the summer and the only rust that was found is primarily on the lower front corner of the drivers door, right behind the front fender. After taking the interior door panel off I found there was a lot of red clay/sand buildup on the bottom of the door, which was plugging the factory drain holes, and like most 40+ year old G-Bodies, the weatherstripping and window sweeps are dry rotted so when it rains, that water goes right down into the door.
The rear trunk lid also has rust holes all along the bottom edge above the reverse lights and over the license plate where there was another factory installed molding. Absolutely NO RUST on the rocker panels, lower fenders, rear quarter panels, floors or frame. It still has all the original steel brake lines and they aren’t rusted either. I put new rear AC Delco coil springs on about 6 months ago, it’s got the 14” Olds Rally wheels on it, the tires are about 14 months old with under 3k miles on them. I also have the original steel wheels and wire hubcaps with the factory locks and key.
The interior isn’t the best, obviously a lot of cracking on the dashboard from decades of Tennessee sun, some small rips in the front 60/40 split bench seat. The headliner and vinyl top were replaced in 2015 before I got it, but whoever did them mistook the Sun-faded dark brown interior for burgundy, and used burgundy materials for them.
It could definitely use a decent paint job, I attempted some rattle-can touch-up work on the rear quarter panels just to clean up the sun-baked, faded and checker cracked factory lacquer but didn’t really spend much time on it.
Perfect candidate for an LS-swap. It will need to be towed, it will start and run but the knock is so bad that as soon as you try driving it, the knock sensor picks it up as a spark knock in the ignition and retards the timing which basically shuts the engine down. I am in the Metro Detroit area
I removed all of the wide, stainless , lower body moldings over the summer and the only rust that was found is primarily on the lower front corner of the drivers door, right behind the front fender. After taking the interior door panel off I found there was a lot of red clay/sand buildup on the bottom of the door, which was plugging the factory drain holes, and like most 40+ year old G-Bodies, the weatherstripping and window sweeps are dry rotted so when it rains, that water goes right down into the door.
The rear trunk lid also has rust holes all along the bottom edge above the reverse lights and over the license plate where there was another factory installed molding. Absolutely NO RUST on the rocker panels, lower fenders, rear quarter panels, floors or frame. It still has all the original steel brake lines and they aren’t rusted either. I put new rear AC Delco coil springs on about 6 months ago, it’s got the 14” Olds Rally wheels on it, the tires are about 14 months old with under 3k miles on them. I also have the original steel wheels and wire hubcaps with the factory locks and key.
The interior isn’t the best, obviously a lot of cracking on the dashboard from decades of Tennessee sun, some small rips in the front 60/40 split bench seat. The headliner and vinyl top were replaced in 2015 before I got it, but whoever did them mistook the Sun-faded dark brown interior for burgundy, and used burgundy materials for them.
It could definitely use a decent paint job, I attempted some rattle-can touch-up work on the rear quarter panels just to clean up the sun-baked, faded and checker cracked factory lacquer but didn’t really spend much time on it.
Perfect candidate for an LS-swap. It will need to be towed, it will start and run but the knock is so bad that as soon as you try driving it, the knock sensor picks it up as a spark knock in the ignition and retards the timing which basically shuts the engine down. I am in the Metro Detroit area
