1985 Regal help... Bad ideal.

[JAYO]

Sup guys? Picked up a 85 Regal Limited with only 73,000 OG miles... 1 owner! From 3/15/2004 the car was started once a week and drove a short distance once a month. Everything is 100% stock V-6. So far I have done the following,

Air cleaner
Breather
pcv valve
And sprayed the hell outta the carb with cleaner and followed up with deep creep. From what I can see plugs are good as well as wires. Now here's what has me.

The owner said he had a problem with the choke or something like that. He had a small piece of wood in the carb to keep the car running. After I cleaned it all out I took the wood out and no dice... She runs for a minute really rough and then shuts down. I put the wood back in and she still idles a little rough but drives better. Another thing I noticed is at full throttle she wont shift, let off the gas a little and she's fine... Kinda thinking all of these problems may go together.. (hopefully) I know V-6's arent fast so im not looking for it to kick tires or anything, but at full throttle I can barely get it up to 35..LoL!

I hate to take it to anyone when it may be something I can do myself so hopefully you all can point me in the right direction. Also, I would like to remove all the emissions stuff if possible. Any one have a good link or how too on that? The car should register as an antique now in Georgia but im not sure, I'll find out this week.

Thanks,
J

 

[Blake442]

Do yourself a favor and replace the plugs and wires anyways. They're cheap enough.
Also replace, or at least check, the distributor cap and rotor. More cheap reassurance.

Which trans does the car have?

 

[patmckinneyracing]

Some transmission will do that where you have to slightly let off the gas to get it to shift. My 96' Dakota does that when I'm laying into the throttle and it's a v6 magnum motor with an OD 4 speed automatic.

Another thing you can do is check the timing and tune the carb to match. This is often the best way to notice any difference in the performance of the car. I have no idea on old v6 motors when it comes to GM but am running off the same basics that a v8 would respond to. I would not put anything in the carb because there is always the possibility of something following down into the intake and then your really screwed.

 

[username]

What is the "wood" in the carb for? Is it sealing a vac leak or holding your choke part open? you need to look @ WHY you need a foriegn object in your carb for the car to run.I personally wouldnt bother deleteing the ecm and still retain the 3.8 (I'm guessing).If your going the v-8 route then its fair game.

 

[billyjack]

Based on the information you provided so far, it sounds like your choke systems need some service. A choke blade wedged open is usually to compensate for a faulty vacuum break. Check the vacuum breaks for proper operation, as well as the choke adjustment and electric choke operation. Immediately upon startup the choke should open the choke about 1/8", then a few seconds later the secondary vacuum break should pull it open about 1/4" total. From that point the electric choke heater should open it gradually the rest of the way. A 3.8 V6 of that era is certainly no screamer, but it should be able to accelerate and run at highway speeds easily. Don't start modifying anything yet. Get it running up to specs in stock form first.

Bill

 

[JAYO]

What is the "wood" in the carb for? Is it sealing a vac leak or holding your choke part open? you need to look @ WHY you need a foriegn object in your carb for the car to run.

Trying to track that down now.... I assume it's to hold the choke open.

Based on the information you provided so far, it sounds like your choke systems need some service. A choke blade wedged open is usually to compensate for a faulty vacuum break. Check the vacuum breaks for proper operation, as well as the choke adjustment and electric choke operation. Immediately upon startup the choke should open the choke about 1/8", then a few seconds later the secondary vacuum break should pull it open about 1/4" total. From that point the electric choke heater should open it gradually the rest of the way. A 3.8 V6 of that era is certainly no screamer, but it should be able to accelerate and run at highway speeds easily. Don't start modifying anything yet. Get it running up to specs in stock form first.
Bill

I wont be modding anything on this engine, just want it to run well for the rest of the year until I build a motor. I agree it has to be something with the choke because the blades are moving pretty loosely. Any one have a break down of the carb componets and how to check everything? Hopefully I can post some pictures tonight, I noticed one thing that concerned me cause it looks like there should be a vacum line there.

 

[84regalltd]

I'd do a full tune up and check that suspect vacuum line. Google should turn up a diagram for the carb as well. Elec or manual choke?

 

[84regalltd]

Also what part of ga are you in?

 

[JAYO]

I'd do a full tune up and check that suspect vacuum line. Google should turn up a diagram for the carb as well. Elec or manual choke?

I checked all vacum lines as well as plugs, wires, cap, and rotor... Think I have found the problem and plan to fix it this weekend.

Im in Gwinnett off medlock bridge.

 

[JAYO]

Okay replaced all vacum lines and the car ideals great... However, when I give it gas it's like it's boggin down and eventually cuts off..

Any ideas what to check next?