8.8 in a G body pretty much step by step enjoy

[j_tizzle_84]

this is older scroll down its there




ok just looking for options on the control arms as aposed to buying the 500 dollar base line kit. mustang upper g body lower with g body brackets or just g body adjustable upper and lower with spherical end or not. if i can save a couple bucks the i will get rear coil overs. if any one has done this and can post what control arm combination you used it would be appreciated. i have a 220 mig welder and can weld so thats not a issue.

 

[j_tizzle_84]

Re: 8.8 in a cutlass

wow no one

 

[jrm81bu]

Re: 8.8 in a cutlass

Have a look here.
http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewt ... =4&t=72070

 

[j_tizzle_84]

Re: 8.8 in a cutlass

thanks that was exactly what i was looking for

 

[j_tizzle_84]

Re: 8.8 in a cutlass

got the upper control arms and u joint and the rear a 8.8 3.73 posi with a auburn diff for 150.

 

[j_tizzle_84]

Re: 8.8 in a cutlass

what you will need:
8.8 from mustang and wheels
driveshaft flange for 8.8 with bolts
conversion u joint Part #: 1310-3R-GR
mustang adj upper control arms I USED DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE
tape measure
magnetic protractor
welder
grinder
A DAY TO DEDICATE TOOK ME AND A BUDDY 7HRS

well finally did this pretty easy swap dont know why everyone dont do this. use the one from the mustang fox body or newer ones. newer ones have 5 lug and disc brakes. i just did this swap in my cutlass and will never look at another gm rear. the swap is pretty straight forward if you are handy with a welder, tape measure and have a magnetic protractor (competion engineering sells these $30). remove 7.5 rear.level the rear side to side front to back. take measurements of where the lca brackets and spring perches sit (i established a centerline and measured out from there) as well as the angles they sit at relative to level. check check and check again before cutting. cut off 7.5 lower control arm brackets and spring perches. level 8.8 and establish center. mark where brackets will sit. this is where extra hands come into play. check check and check again before welding. a little grinding will get the bracket to fit tight. ok weld brackets on 8.8. for the vent i just drilled the hole out slightly and pushed the 7.5 vent in it. go a little at a time till it fits snugly in the hole it don't take much install mustang adjustable upper control arms reinstall your 8.8 rear. now for the driveshaft. remove rear u joint and install conversion u joint and 8.8 flange. if your u joint has never been changed you may have to heat it to get it out because gm uses a plastic stuff to hold in the caps. driveshaft length is the same with the ford flange. install driveshaft.now for the brake mine where drums but should be similar for disc minus e brake cable but if you made it this far i think you can work that out. remove brake lines from the rear and put the passenger side on the driver side and driver side on the passenger side and reconnect to the factory g body brake hose. ok e brake cable will connect to the 8.8 but seam a little long (havent really worried about this since i dont use it just know they fit and hook up). bleed brakes and install wheels and your done!

heres a link to the pics http://s960.photobucket.com/albums/ae81/j_tizzle_84/ any questions just ask

now let me sum up my reasoning for this swap: 1) 7.5 is weak hands down no matter what anyone says broke 2 with stock 305. 2) 8.5 are expensive 800-1000+ range 3) ford 9 in is a great rear probably the best used this in my astre race car making close to 1000hp, but this rear is very heavy duty and take robs a good deal of power. ok so this bring us to the 8.8. the 8.8 is a very strong rear and it light which means more power to through around very close to g body width mine with drum brakes and poney wheels has 1in inside and about 3 outside plenty of room for the 275 rear tire coming soon. sorry for the rant but just tring to save you some money