Ok guys I'm a chick and this sh*t is makin me crazy I replaced alternator and battery the car still wont hold a charge it starts the service engine soon light comes on battery charge light comes on i go to take off it starts putting and dies then it wont start at all no click or thing
85 olds wont hold charge
- Thread starter Marley
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First off, I guess- welcome?
Second. About your car? I think it would help to know what kind of G-body we're talking about here. Electrical systems are generally the same, but different models have slightly different layouts.
If the battery charge light is coming on, that means it is NOT charging the battery correctly. The car dying may or may not have anything to do with the alternator or battery. It could be the fuel system or ignition. The nothing after it stalls is concerning, as that means there's probably a loose connection somewhere. But if it doesn't start after it dies, then how do you get it running in the first place?
Second. About your car? I think it would help to know what kind of G-body we're talking about here. Electrical systems are generally the same, but different models have slightly different layouts.
If the battery charge light is coming on, that means it is NOT charging the battery correctly. The car dying may or may not have anything to do with the alternator or battery. It could be the fuel system or ignition. The nothing after it stalls is concerning, as that means there's probably a loose connection somewhere. But if it doesn't start after it dies, then how do you get it running in the first place?
Welcome. Sounds like a few issues. Need to start one at a time. Sounds like the alternator is not charging so what I would do if you are not a DIU'r is find an alternator shop and have it checked out
Key stuck in the ignition? Sounds like the transmission back linkage is loose or out of adjustment, which means your steering column doesn't think you're in Park. And if the steering column doesn't think you're in park or neutral, it shouldn't allow you to start the car either. If you grab the lower section of the steering column right next to the dash, that collar should rotate when you shift the gear. Try to rotate it all the way to the left and then check the key to see if you can rotate the key to lock and remove the key. If it won't move, check to see if the backdrive linkage is mis-adjusted.
The backdrive linkage from the steering column in the engine bay on the driver side. You'll see the little arm sticking up out of the steering column with a rubber bushing in it. There's a rod in there that runs down to a linkage system to your transmission lever. There's a set screw (actually it's a bolt) that is at the end of the rod for adjustment. If this is missing or out of adjustment, the car thinks you're in gear and won't allow you to get the key out. Or shouldn't.
Is it a Cutlass Salon or 442 (which is based on the Salon)? V6 or V8? 4-speed automatic? Original condition generally? Or modified?
I agree with airboatgreg in that if you're not a do-it-yourselfer, the charging systems can get tricky to solve the issues and you may need some professional help. Sometimes it's easy, other times it's a nightmare. But if you want to try, it's not impossible to do a few things yourself. You just don't want to get too far over your head and then can't get it back together. Believe me, I've been playing with G-bodies for years, and there are still some things I'm not too sure about.
The column bowl (the thing you need to grab and turn to the left) either allows the key to turn and operate the ignition switch or it does not. It's a physical block. Park or Neutral allows you to start the car. Any other position and it won't. Here's a cutaway of what's going on inside the column.
The backdrive linkage from the steering column in the engine bay on the driver side. You'll see the little arm sticking up out of the steering column with a rubber bushing in it. There's a rod in there that runs down to a linkage system to your transmission lever. There's a set screw (actually it's a bolt) that is at the end of the rod for adjustment. If this is missing or out of adjustment, the car thinks you're in gear and won't allow you to get the key out. Or shouldn't.
Is it a Cutlass Salon or 442 (which is based on the Salon)? V6 or V8? 4-speed automatic? Original condition generally? Or modified?
I agree with airboatgreg in that if you're not a do-it-yourselfer, the charging systems can get tricky to solve the issues and you may need some professional help. Sometimes it's easy, other times it's a nightmare. But if you want to try, it's not impossible to do a few things yourself. You just don't want to get too far over your head and then can't get it back together. Believe me, I've been playing with G-bodies for years, and there are still some things I'm not too sure about.
The column bowl (the thing you need to grab and turn to the left) either allows the key to turn and operate the ignition switch or it does not. It's a physical block. Park or Neutral allows you to start the car. Any other position and it won't. Here's a cutaway of what's going on inside the column.
So we have a wiring issue. Could be lots of things. If you are not handy I would find an alternator shop to check it out. Post what area you are in and maybe one of us can give you a shop referral
If you look under the driver side of the car up next to the transmission, you'll see the backdrive linkage. Note the bolt right about in the middle of the pic with the rod going down through the fitting, but not quite going all the way through (rod usually does go all the way through, if you have the right adjustment). When the car is in park, and key is on but not starting the car, loosen the bolt and push the rod up all the way. If the rod moves, then likely it was out of adjustment. The bolt just needs to be snug and tight, don't crank on it. Torque spec is 20 lbs/ft. Then your reverse light switch adjustment is another thing but you can do that later. Make sure the car will start in Park and neutral. That's the important thing at the moment.
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