86 Quadrajet Help

Status
Not open for further replies.

rtanner68

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 8, 2010
19
0
0
I went to remove the air horn on the carb- an 86 quadrajet for the 307 olds. It is computer controlled. I have rebuilt many ford carbs, but for the life of me I could not get the damn carb cover off. I removed the 2 large bolts on each side at the front, and the numerous star bolts around the carb, and the center rod to attach the air cleaner to.

It was still sealed on, you could shake it and move the car, but not loosen the air horn. Am I missing something here, r is it just that damn sealed on?


** Yep, those screws in the front barrels. Christ I feel stupid right now.

Just so everyone knows: the 307's in these cars with the computer controlled carb/ dist suck. Who in the hell desingns the carb with air horn plates all over it like that? With 2 in the front barrels!!! And dont get me started on the smog crud.

I need to go cry in the corner dor 1 minuet. Then I'll be good.
 
Did you get the 2 screws under the choke plate?
 
Ok, Im stumped and need any other possible ideas. Here is the full discription of the problems, I do not believe then to be what has been offered. Maybe this might help for better diagnoses. Thanks to everyone for their understanding, as I am new this these "new" cars. 🙂

First specs: 307 with the CCC diagnostics and ECM control. Full on emissions system including the AIR pump. Compression is good, fuel system preassure & flow is good, ignition system should be good.
I bought the car, and drove it 6 miles to my garage. I knew about the car 2 weeks before buying it, and knew that it ran well, but had this single constant "ticking" that changed with RPM. It drove well all the way to the garage. Just that ticking.

Now a day later when I go to start it... perfect. No ticking, perfect idle. Drove for 6 minuets to the store, and before that it was isling in park for 7 minuets. Perfect drive. No noise, only a well tuned sounding engine. Upon starting it up again after 10 minuets in the store.... ticking, rough idle. Still, it was driveable back to the garage.

Now its idle was a bit off at times, but very driveable. Same here. 2 days later I finally get to diagnose the problem. Nothing.

I did the full tune up- plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil, and a new battery. She really needed these things. Then started her up... still ticking but same ok idle. She idled for 10 minuets, then we went for a drive. She drove well, but tried to stall out at idle when sitting still. Got back to the garage and got out, walked back to the car in 2 minuets, and shes dead.

Started her up, had to fight to get her in the garage as she didn't want to idle well. Now here we are....

She will not idle. You start her, she runs for 3 seconds and like gravity coughs out. She will not idle. If I give her gas and work with her, I can keep her running, but not on her own. Above 1,000 rpm she stops chugging and runs well enough. I bring her down to 700 rpm, and then let go.. she dies off.

Plugs are super clean, I did not change any specs or settings since that perfect noiseless drive that day, or the 2 drives before it. I checked the diagnostic system, it works. I replaced an old throttle position sensor and a coolant switch just for age alone today, of course no change.

Now like today, despite no idle.... she didnt tick for 3 minuets while I ran her. 5 minuets later she was ticking.

Its not oil starvation, and these engines are know for spun crank bearings. I believe its not the case. I also checked the vac lines, previous owner had a few unhooked that did not route to anything, but still I didnt change it. All proper hosing is there, with no leak as I can tell. I cant do a proper vac leak test as she wont idle. Its just out of the blue this bad all of a sudden. I could really use some help here.
 
my $ is on its a bad oil pump. Id kinda had the same issue on my 86 cutty. Put in a meling high volume pump and never had a tick or low oil pressure again. Now the bad....oil pump on my 86 required me to jack whole motor up. dam sucks right
 
you need to retune the carb idle air screws, maybe the choke and fast idle screw, and probably the timing. basically they were set for the worn out components, now that the ignition is actually working the carb is off.
 
I'm sorry, I must have accidentally posted this again in the carb thread. Sorry guys.

Well, since we are here. As far as retuneing the carb--- I idled and drove this engine for a total of 20 minuets after the tune up. It ran and idled. This carb also does not like being adjusted, as its pretty much factory set and computer controlled. Also, I coil and cap, all the parts I changed were good, I just wanted to tune her up... they were old, but not bad.

I am leary about changing the carb settings, as that would add an extra issue to the pot. Nothing was changed for this to happen. As I said, yesterday I started her and she idled... a bit faster than she should. For 2 minuets, then she increased her idle by a couple hundred RPM. I reved the engine to slow her, and here we are now... no idle even when "cold" (hot out)

??? Thanks again for the help.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor