I have an 87 Cutlass that was a V6 and is now a V8 and the a/c hasn't worked in probably 5 years and I want to hook it up to the new engine. I have all the brackets and the last time the A/C was used it use to leak out. I would like to know what parts can i keep and what parts should I get new? Or is there a company that sells a complete A/C kit for Gbodies?
A/C Repair
- Thread starter Riggs
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Sort of an open-ended question... It could be almost anything BUT one common thing that goes wrong with auto AC systems are the o-rings. Recently when I re-installed my AC, I replaced all of the o-rings and now it acrually holds a charge!
It will all depend on your original configuration and the accessory drives you plan on using. Sine this is an unknown right now, I will post what I did to my car. My car originally had a Buick 3.8 V6 in it. I installed a 350 using 84-85 305 Grand Prix accessory drives for everything but the A/C. For the A/C, I am using the drives from a 1984 HO 305 Z-28 both because I have them, and they let me clear the dual snorkel air cleaner base from that car. My car uses the condenser from the Z-28 with a passenger's side inlet and outlet (same as a V6, but a few inches lower), the V6 compressor with the compressor side brackets from the Z-28, a high side line from a 1987 IROC-Z and the hoses and hose to radiator support brackets for a 1984 Z-28. I used the dryer from the V6 as it had the right outlet position as compared to some V8 cars. I have only mocked mine up at this point as I need to pull the front clip to paint a few things before I do final assembly. I would recommend getting a 134a pressure switch, all new O rings, 134a rated hoses, and a 134a dryer. You also want to drain the compressor of oil, and you may wish to get a rebuilt compressor with seals that are compatible with 134a. Then you will need high and low side adapter fittings to fill it. As I have said I DO NOT YET KNOW if this will all work together, but it is how I am going to do mine.
It would be cheaper to switch it over. You need the dryer anyways, and if the compressor has not been in operation for 5 years, it is likely the seals are bad. Plus, the O rings are old, etc. The system should be cleaned out by a pro, but the 134a is so much cheaper than 12. You could pay upwards of $200 retail for the 12 to charge the system, but the 134a would be around $12 and you can DIY.
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