AutoXing the Pumkinator

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G-Body Guru
Jun 16, 2011
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St. George, UT
www.streetroddesigns.com
Hey all. I recently replaced my entire suspension with Speedtech Performance parts including some experimental parts we've been working on. I thought I'd share some photos a friend shot of the car's first AutoX with the new suspension at a local SCCA event. This was a long and fast track, I got up to about 60 mph on straight, and was a blast to drive.

Just playing with the shock compression valving I knocked 3 seconds off my time over 10 runs, going from 78s down to 75 seconds, and was about middle of the road amongst a whole bunch of imports. Overall the car is at least as good as it was with the old suspension set up and I still have a lot of adjustability in the alignment, spring rate, shock rebound, and the rear sway bar to play with. At this point I plan on making the Hotchkis event in Fontana in October, hoping to get a bunch of runs there to continue tuning things. My goal is to eventually be the baddest daily driven autoX American Station Wagon 😛 , so we'll see how things go over the next year of events. Enjoy the pics!

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There was a lot more done to the chassis, see my build thread, but these are directly related to the changes I made. This was my old old set up -

SPC front Upper Control Arms
Single adjustable Varishocks front and rear
590 lb S10 front springs
Factory 1 1/8 front sway bar
Edelbrock (Same as Hotchkis) rear lower arms
Spohn Upper rear arms
CPP rear springs
No rear sway bar
255-40-17 front and 275-40 rear tires.

New Speedtech set up-
front Upper arms
front lowers
1 5/16 front sway bar
"articulink" rear lower arms
Adjustable rear sway bar that mounts to the frame rather than the lower arms
Viking double adjustable full coilovers all around
275-40s all around
I kept the Spohn uppers for now because the way the guy built my exhaust, it was already tight to the "thin" design of the Spohns and the Speedtech upper rear arms rubbed the tubing at ride height. I'll address that later when I get to adding more motor and will need to upgrade the exhaust.

The Speedtech parts are well matched and the adjustability of the rear sway bar and coilovers over coil springs and shocks opens a whole new world of ease of tunability. I'm pretty excited to learn the dynamics of the new suspension design and looking forward to seeing better performance out of the car.
 
clean8485 said:
Thanks for the info Ben. Your goals remind me of the build that SSLance has been doing on MonteSS.com.

He and I have been chatting a bit back and forth on lateral-g.net lately as we have similar set ups, although from different manufacturers. It's nice to compare notes with a car that is similar.
 
Does the front end geometry on your Cutlass, with the Speedtech parts compare with Lance's car, with the altered mounting points for the front control arms? Any idea of upcoming powertrain changes? Are you considering a manual trans swap? Just curious.
 
clean8485 said:
Does the front end geometry on your Cutlass, with the Speedtech parts compare with Lance's car, with the altered mounting points for the front control arms? Any idea of upcoming powertrain changes? Are you considering a manual trans swap? Just curious.

I didn't realize he changed mounting points, I'll need to go back and look at his build thread a little more closely. I haven't modified any mounting points, the goal with the car is make things work great with off the shelf parts that even the most entry level car guy can install in his garage.

I want to be competitive like anyone else, but my budget doesn't allow going crazy like some of the big name guys in the Pro Touring world. I'd like to say I put the car together for under $10K but I think body work and paint will eventually put me a little over that. That's a far cry from the $50, 70,100K + cars that we see at events and in magazines so I'm pretty happy with what the car does with what I have into it.

Powertrain is last on my list. Next step on my list is getting the interior back together, I daily drive it and it's like riding in a race car right now. After that I need to get serious about a rear axle upgrade. I have a 9" but need to save a little more cash to narrow and set it up with the right brackets and stuff. I plan on running 3.50 gears. If I want to maintain my gas mileage I'll need to upgrade to an overdrive, I currently run a stock TH350 with a "towing" 1800 stall. I will likely look at doing a 4L65E. They have a good low 1st gear that gets you out of the gate quicker and a decent overdrive. So swapping axles includes a trans too, adding cost of course.

My opinion is that for a daily driver and autocross car I prefer an automatic. The trendy thing to do to be like everyone else is get a T56 but is it really necessary? I'm not as much interested in road racing the car where I think a standard trans is very useful. For autocrossing, not having to deal with a clutch and shifting is one less thing I have to focus on, I'd rather focus solely on my driving a good line. Getting stuck in traffic with a standard trans is lame, no two ways around that one.

Right now my 406 small block likely makes around 325 hp and 400 ft lbs at the flywheel. I think I'd like to have a little better acceleration on the straights, but going steeper than the 2.41 factory gears I have would take care of a lot of that. Right now the car runs 14.6s @ almost 98 mph at 3000 ft altitude. I go through the lights at 4500 in 2nd gear on 275-50-15 drag radials. I shift into 2nd just a little before the 1/8 mile mark. I think with the right gears and maybe some tuning the car could slip into the 13s, so I don't feel like I need all that much more power like everyone else's 500+ hp LS motors. Remember all the power in the world does nothing if you can't plant it. Even with my current set up I can blaze the tires exiting from a curve into a good fast straight. Part of that's tuning the suspension but it would be way worse with big hp. On a tight course like a Goodguys event what good does it do to have all that power and you can only use 1/3 of the pedal travel to get through the course? I like the feeling of flat flooring it when I can even if it's only 250 hp at the wheels.

My 406 is 17 years old and approaching 100,000 very hard miles. It still holds 45 lbs of oil pressure and runs flawlessly everyday, but at some point I'd like to convert to the efficiency and response of fuel injection. To keep things on the budget side, future plans are a 5.3 salvage yard truck motor with a simple cam and headers upgrade. I figure even with a truck intake (more torque) I can put 350- 375 hp to the wheels with something like that, which I feel is more than sufficient for what I'm doing. A 6.0 or 6.2 sounds better but the price goes up significantly and gas mileage drops. I like getting over 20 mpg and keeping money available for new tires, lol! For now I have a a spare 406 short block ready to go and another virgin 400 builder in storage if anything happens to this one.
 
Hi Ben,
I've looked at the suspension build by SSLance on his Monte too (a lot)! He moved his lower front control arm mounting holes (page 9 of his build) because of bad hole alignment (one rear bucket mount was off by 1/4 inch IIRC). He had to change one side just to get a drill rod to go through all four holes without binding, so Ron said he should modify both right and left sides to be the same (vertically and horizontally). Ron and Lance talked and decided to move the lower ball joint forward (seeing they had to moving the control arm holes to get both sides the same anyway) .4 inches too. IIRC, the lower control arm moved the ball joint forward .4 inches also for a total of .8 inches.

Doug
 
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