I am going to put a BBC into my '83 T-Type and would like to modify the original a/c box if possible with the least amount of trial and error. Is it feasible to modify the a/c box to clear this combo (engine is a tall deck block w/GMPP aluminum valve covers?).
I've put a couple of BBO's in G-bodies and it didn't require much work on the a/c box but it it appears the BBC may be more of a challenge.
Links or pics would be great if ya' got 'em.
you can modify the box but i would just buy an ac deleat box my car has the ac box in it but no room for the ac condencer and my block is a standered deck 454
you dont have to modify anything to keep the ac box and put in a big block, i am keeping the factory AC box and using the short style aluminum valve covers on my big block with no problems removing them and getting to the AC stuff. and i am still going to run AC on the car with a big block
fwiw when I put the Cad motor in the Cutlass it would go but fit so snug that I would have to jack the motor up to remove the valve cover. So I cut the side of the AC box out and was able to fiberglass it back in about a 1/2 inch closer to the hampster wheel. Small fiberglass kits are available at most autoparts stores and this was a quick & easy job. This gave me the necessary room to easily remove the valve cover AND keep the AC.
For anyone considering a Cad 472/500 transplant who wants to keep the AC. You can take the brackets off an 80/81 Cadillac with a 368 as its the same block and they came with the same style AC compressor as our g-bodys. I did have to do one minor modification to mount the back of the bracket to the Ebrock intake. Also as a side benefit the 368/425 has the lightweight sheet metal pulleys & runs everything nice & neat with two belts.
vern is right my car had a 396 in it before I got it and they beat out the a/c box to clear it I asked what the heck they did it for and they said the valve cover wouldn't clear so I pulled the a/c box out and fabbed it up for a friend of mine only took a couple of hours and I was finished complete with gel coat oh and vern dare to be differant aproach works if you can keep that caddy torque from ripping the yoke off
Thanks Nabob, Yea can you say stupid amounts of low end torque. 8)
Mine has 3.42 gears in an 8.5 with an Eaton posi, aftermarket lower control arms, an airbag, and 275/60 M&H drag radials on 15x8 widend factory ralleys. She hooks decent now but can still roast em at an intersection without touching the brake. The small primarys on a Q-jet with high velocity heads & a large long stroke motor make for a fun combo on the street. I bought some adjustable drag shocks for the front and some double adjustable upper control arms for the rear so that I can adjust the instant center. When done it should transfer the weight and plant the tires for a lot better hook. Then I'll need line lock so as not to abuse the driveline.
yeah torque from a caddy is awsome I used to have an 82 chevy truck with a stock 472 sounded like a 305 and rund like a scaleded ape just no rpms though but it had 4.11s
Yea I am big on reliability. I don't like frequent freshening rebuilds & adjustments to keep it alive. To me on a street car RPMs stand for ruins peoples motors. Naturally if you have to spin it to make the power you want then you have to spin it. Mine shifts at 5200 and probably hit peak HP at 48/4900. The Cads spin up surprisingly quick and have a broad power curve but as a real race motor their limited as they don't want to spin high without fairly serious & expensive mods.
you're right there my truck had a 350 vette motor then a 3800 v6 fwd motor (night mare swap) a 335 5.0 stroker and then the caddy it would haul a$$ with that but you couldn't wring it out like a small block and for the record I never spun a domestic engine past 6500 rpm but the small block chevys are a he(( of a lot cheaper to build the caddy is for the deep pocketed ones
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