Brake bleeding woes

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-83MONTESS-

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Nov 4, 2010
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Long story short-Im gravity bleeding my brakes. I opened the rears with hose and bottle attached and after about 30 seconds I got a good consistent drip. I let them each seperately drip open for 10 minutes as I drank beer and topped the fluid off. I then closed them, topped the fluid off and checked the pedal. It felt better but still went to the floor :roll: Then I moved to the right front. I pumped the pedal a bit then opened the bleeder. At first I got nothing. Then I closed it and pumped the pedal a few more times very hard. Then I started getting a few drips. After awhile the dripping slowed down. After repeating this process a few more times nothing changed as I was still getting very little fluid from the bleeder. I decided to move to the left front and when I opened the bleeder I got NOTHING at all.

The reason im bleeding these goddamn brakes again is because my left front caliper hung up. I replaced the caliper, hose, and brake line to the proportioning valve. The line sat open for a few days but I cut the old line and used vice grips to kink it closed. Fluid level was low in the front reservoir when I went to replace the caliper so I bled the master cylinder to be safe. The pedal was firm but still had some sponginess even though it didnt go to the floor. After I tried pressure bleeding the brakes to get rid of the sponginess the pedal feel got much worse and went to the floor and thats where im at now.

One thing I noticed is with the master cylinder cap off if I pump the brake pedal I get a very large splash. Not sure if this is normal but it only started doing it after I tried bleeding the left front. It didnt do it when I did right front or the rears. I thought it was maybe a proportioning valve but since the rears are fine im not so sure of anything anymore. And no lines are kinked.
 
Before I broke down and invested in a vacuum bleeder I would gravity bleed them too, I would take the cap off when the bleeders were open and fill it and put the cap back on BEFORE I touched the pedal. You may have to "shock" the prop valve if you got a good drip from the rear but not the front, just close your bleeder and fill it and stab the pedal a few times hard
 
Fox80 said:
Before I broke down and invested in a vacuum bleeder I would gravity bleed them too, I would take the cap off when the bleeders were open and fill it and put the cap back on BEFORE I touched the pedal. You may have to "shock" the prop valve if you got a good drip from the rear but not the front, just close your bleeder and fill it and stab the pedal a few times hard
I have stabbed the brake pedal quite a bit to dry and dislodge any air pockets. How do I go about manually resetting the proportioning valve? I see there is a little rubber looking button on the bottom towards the rear and a small pin that is sticking out quite a bit at the top. When my dad and I pressure bled them last week the result was the same.
 
I am pretty sure you can clamp that proportioning valve with a clamp of some kind, then bleed them. This should work better.
 
TexasT said:
I am pretty sure you can clamp that proportioning valve with a clamp of some kind, then bleed them. This should work better.
Actually I just got it figured out. I tapped the prop valve a few times lightly with a mallet and then pumped the pedal a bunch. I cracked the bleeder and got a lot of air under pressure then small spurts of fluid. I bet I cracked that bleeder open 20-25 times before I didnt see any bubbles. All of the other lines were fine so I think im good to go! Thanks for the advice/tips guys.
 
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