Build work

[othtim]

Hi there. I'm starting an engine build an I would love some suggestions/advice.

I've got a core from a 1989 350, 1 peice rear main seal. I've got the engine and rotating assembly all disassembled.
I'm looking at a budget build, ideal about 1hp per cubic inch. I've got the block tank'd and mag'd. I'm ready this month to get the block bored .030 over and cam bearings and freeze plugs installed.

The engine will be going into a 1983 Monte Carlo LS.

I'm looking to spend as little as possible, and as such I'll be cruising junkyards and such. However one thing I don't want to skimp on is the rotating assembly and block. I'm debating 355 or 383. I'd like to get as much power/inch as possible, but not break the bank. I can do clearancing and porting myself at home. What is the advantage of the 383 over the 355 (other than cubes and torque). I've heard before that you need to run a longer duration cam to take full advantage of the 383 (due to the faster piston travel). How accurate is this?

I was considering getting a jegs/summit rebuild kit, with a cast crank, hypereuctatic pistons, and buy some rods. I'm not sure what kind of rods I want to use at this point. Ideally I'd like the longest rod I can fit without spending too much money to do it. From what I've read a 5.7 rod is normal (it comes with the kits) and will fit easily.

As far as top end, I'll likely end up using an OEM hydraulic roller cam setup (like out of an IROC camaro), with 1.6 roller rockers. I'm not sure on the head selection yet. I'm interested in trying to port 193 casting heads to see how well I can do, but I just as likely buy a set of cheap aluminum heads from Jegs or Summit.

I'll likely start the build with a Q-jet carb, since that is what is on the car now. Also eventually I'll be using a TBI setup, with a stock-style HEI distributor for now. I've done a carb to TBI swap before on my dads' pickup, so I am familiar with that setup. The car also features a stock exhaust system, again, for now. But likely the engine will change before exhaust. The car also features a TH350 with a 2000 stall.

I currently use this car to cruise, so it needs to have somewhat reasonable fuel economy.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[crotchss]

I've built 355's and 383's both for customers and friends. Both engines are easily capable of making 1hp/inch for fairly cheap. I'd say that dollar for dollar one of the best buys for heads to make that power would be a set of Vortecs. But there are getting to be more and more performance heads for around that price range lately. I think the last set I put on a guys engine I bought new for $800 for the pair and these were machined for bigger springs and the guide height cut for more lift. (I know you can find a used set for cheap and have all the same machine work done for less than that, but we were on a tight time schedule then). I combined this with the GM Hot cam and roller rockers and a RPM Air Gap intake. It idled with a noticeable lope in a 355 and carried 17-18" of vaccum @ 800-900 rpm if I remember right. It got fairly good mileage, would tattoo the pavement pretty easy if you wanted, and is still very reliable after years of towing, 4 wheelin', hell raisin', etc. If you build a 355 I would go flattops, and dished with the 383 with any 64cc head to stay on the pump. As far as rotating assemblies, Ebay has loads of kits for both of these. New cast 383 kits are around $700 shipped with Eagle, Speed Pro, Clevite, Pioneer, Perfect Circle parts, and come balanced ready to assemble and are rated to 500 hp. Used these many times with no troubles. You can definitely go cheaper on the heads, but if you are going roller you'll need something similar to handle the lift and the extra weight of the lifters. Hope this helped. Good luck with your project.