clear coat over graphics?

john87442

Master Mechanic
Supporting Member
Mar 9, 2021
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Geneva ohio
Ok so the 87 442 is going back to the body shop now that I was able to get the engine, trans, exhaust finished and a bunch of wiring, the question I was having is, has anyone ever clear coated over their stripe graphics? I called the manufacturer who stated the obvious "we don't recommend it" however he did say some people have done it and it looks good.
I was hoping there was more info here from the group about it. I would like to have them under clear coat so they don't get damaged with washing and polishing.

Thanks in advance for the input.
Now I have to go look up what the factory placement of the graphics was, I'm sure that info is in one of these previous posts
 
Plus, if you ever have to redo a stripe, you won't be able to unless you repaint the section even if it does hold up, which in my experience, it doesn't. Also, it will discolor the gold stripes. I know, I had a car that someone did this to and this is why I say not to do it. You can always replace a stripe if something goes south if it's on top of the clear.

Had a gray 85 442 that the original owner before the previous owner had re-cleared the entire car because of clear coat baking in the Florida sun. And not all that great. Car looked halfway good from 150 feet away. Original owner had the dealer install the 3rd brake light for some reason. I just left it.

If you look at the OEM stripes, you'll note, especially above the wheel well and bumper stripes, the lifting of the clear coat and discoloration. This was STUPID. But I couldn't resist the price tag when I bought it. I was going to restore it and had a lot of good NOS stripes and other stuff to put on it so I wasn't that worried about it at the time, but then I sold it on ebay and then bought the 87. I think it sold somewhere for around $2500-$3K, can't recall.

Photo was from 1/29/07 when I threw it on ebay.

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Thanks that information is exactly what i was hoping for.... real life stuff. I appreciate the point about being able to replace one if needed.
Im currently reading another post you had about decal location and placement, I appreciate all the info.
 
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So...depending on WHERE you want to put that front end 442 decal, you have a couple of options. This is my car after replacing the decal in the front. If you use the decal as is with the "spacer" built in, it will center the decal on the fascia. Which, for OEM was a bit low. The Oldsmobile part should be centered to be "correct". Although I wouldn't take points off anyone's car if it's in the general location the premask would put it..

87442 front bumper GM replacement decal installed.JPG



Actual OEM decal placement using the 2 clear decals. This is my 87 right after I got it. Unfortunately, the decal started peeling so I replaced it with a GM replacment. There's about 1/8" gap from the top of the fascia to the 442. Although it appears different, it's the SAME EXACT SIZE as the trunklid 442 decal.
87442 original decal placement.JPG

87442 closeup front bumper decal.jpg
 
My recommendations:

Get every panel in the correct place. Adjust doors to their final position. Then deal with the stripes. Decals should be the last thing you do.

Do the quarter panel/fender stripes first. Door stripes next, as the ends need to be lined up to meet the same level as the quarter/fender stripes.

Put the rear trunk Oldsmobile emblem on. Place the 442 emblem with approx 1/4" space between the emblem top and bottom of the 442.

Determine where you want the front decal and apply it as you wish. Then play with the bumper fascia stripes.
 
this is perfect, although I was unable to locate NOS decals the placement of the ones from phoenix should line up { fingers crossed}.
However the instructions you posted back in Oct of 2020 was very helpful!
Love seeing how an original 87 looked.
Cant thank you enough
 
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Hmm. Rktpwrd disagreed with what I'm going to guess was my assessment of the stripes and clearcoating issue. Differences in thermal expansion rates and reaction with the vinyl (causing discoloring) was what I was told many moons ago by a paint guy in the 80s on why you don't wasnt to clear over graphics. So I'm guessing that is incorrect? Maybe it was just a way to dissuade me from having him clear coat the 72 442 GM hood vinyl graphics when I was discussing a new paint job with him. Painted stripes were standard on all 442s in 72, but only on the trunk and sides, and if you had the W-25 ram air hood. The stock hood, like mine, had vinyl stripes. I asked if he could clear them or should I put them on later. And that's what he told me. Goes to show you- Never trust a paint guy. 🙂

Please, by all means, feel free to jump in and correct any misinformation.
 
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Mounting the Oldsmobile emblem on the trunklid:

Note: Measurements taken off a factory installed trunk emblem on my 85 442. If you have a the chrome strip, which the 442 does not have any chrome strip, you may need to adjust the height measurements accordingly.
To bottom of black on emblem to the lower trunklid edge- 1 -5/8". (I'm only guessing, but if you added something like 1/16" to account for the chrome strip it may be ok for non-442s)
From the RH edge of the trunklid to the rightmost black edge on the "e" in Oldsmobile is 11/16" from the edge.


Now, for those who need to find out where to put the door 442:

I have the measurements SOMEWHERE. Just can't seem to find them atm. The GM decals simply rest on the door stripe automatically placing them on the horizontal plane where they need to be. There are curves on either side of the decal that line up with the front of the door, depending on which side you apply the decal to provide the proper spacing from the front edge of the door.

I don't have any door decals available at hand right now, but I'll check them out this weekend and get those dimensions.

I have some 1986 striping info as well as any molding information as well from the assembly manual.

IMG_0499.jpg

IMG_0500.jpg

IMG_0501.jpg

IMG_0502.jpg
 
Hmm. Rktpwrd disagreed with what I'm going to guess was my assessment of the stripes and clearcoating issue. Differences in thermal expansion rates and reaction with the vinyl (causing discoloring) was what I was told many moons ago by a paint guy in the 80s on why you don't wasnt to clear over graphics. So I'm guessing that is incorrect? Maybe it was just a way to dissuade me from having him clear coat the 72 442 GM hood vinyl graphics when I was discussing a new paint job with him. Painted stripes were standard on all 442s in 72, but only on the trunk and sides, and if you had the W-25 ram air hood. The stock hood, like mine, had vinyl stripes. I asked if he could clear them or should I put them on later. And that's what he told me. Goes to show you- Never trust a paint guy. 🙂

Please, by all means, feel free to jump in and correct any misinformation.

It’s not very often that I disagree with pretty much ANYTHING you post, but I guess there’s an exception to everything. My response here is likely to be somewhat controversial amongst us paint and body guys, but here goes.

The reason I disagree is because things have changed and evolved considerably over the years. Paint and clearcoat technology isn’t what it was back then, it’s considerably better now. Same can be said about the quality of vinyl decals and graphics. Especially over cheaper entry level stuff. Yes, poor quality decals will lift and separate over time, especially with excessive UV exposure and heat, clear coat or otherwise. Better quality ones will not.

Many paint companies struggled badly with clear coat delamination and adherence issues throughout the 80’s, and again in the late nineties to early 2000’s when the push to water bourne base happened. It was those issues that forced the industry to improve their formulations and preparation practices to correct those shortcomings.

As with most things, the difference all comes down to how it’s done, and the products and processes that are used. Correct preparation and using high quality products is the critical factor, along with doing your due diligence in making sure the products are compatible with each other. For example, too much reducer (solvent) in the clear can eat into and react with the vinyl and the adhesive in the decal. Given the amount of time, effort, work and cost that goes into even an average paint job, it was likely too much of a risk for the painter you spoke with to even consider doing. That would be my estimation anyways.

I don’t just talk about things I have no experience with, I have (very) successfully clear coated over vinyl decals before with exceptional results. For example:

My dad is a big Honda motorcycle nut, and he restored a 1985 Honda GB 500 TT from the ground up. When it came time for the paint, he tapped me and asked me to handle the job. He had ordered factory original Honda logos and pinstriping decals for the tank, fenders and side covers. I laid down three coats of the factory metallic black-green paint (think a really dark British Racing Green, but looks black under anything other than direct sunlight) and then another three or four coats of high quality PPG Concept 2021 clear.

After the clear had cured, I wet sanded it perfectly flat with 600 and 1000 grits before applying the decals. I then buried the decals under a further 6 coats of 2021 clear, and let that cure as well. (That’s the most number of coats of clear I’ve ever put on a single project btw). After careful block sanding with 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit paper and then polishing, the decals were completely buried in the clear, smooth to the touch and the results were incredible. It was, and still remains to this day, some of the finest paint work I’ve ever done.

He cannot go anywhere with it without at least two or three people stopping him to ask who did the paint. I’m not boasting, just merely relating facts. Now granted it lives a pretty pampered life, it’s not exposed to the sun and elements outside year round, but that was over 20 years ago now with nary a single issue. So never say never, and you can’t say something's impossible or shouldn’t be done just because of one person’s opinion or bad experience. There’s always exceptions to the rule.

Proof of life, but ignore the date stamp on the pictures. I never bothered to set it properly before using the camera.
😅

Unfortunately these are pictures of pictures, but it’s all I’ve got at the moment and that in itself demonstrates how long ago that was now.

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It still looks just as good as this to this day.
 

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