Couple of questions

[3XBrownCutty]

I went to the junkyard today, looking for things like aluminum core suppourt, non-a/c heater box, quicker ratio steering box, and the inner part of the front drivers fender. No aluminum, no 100% on the steering box, but thumbs up on heater box and inner fender 🙂

I found 4 heater boxes, all seemed to be in good shape. My question is, what do I look for when I'm deciding to pull one? I know to make sure all the plastic is in good shape, but what else? Also what else do I need to get to convert my car from A/C to just heater box?

Secondly am I correct that the inner fender just bolts on to the fender itself (painted body color)?

The owner said $20 for a heater box, and $20 for an inner fender 😀

 

[O. D. Showtime]

Not sure on the other stuff but for the non/AC box you should grab all the ducting, controls, cables and under column cover. Not sure if you need to change out any wiring but might want to consider checking that out.

 

[Blake442]

If you can, get a set up out of a Cutlass. If there isn't one available, that's fine, they all interchange, but it'd be nice for the special dash pieces.

Before you take the heater box off the firewall, you'll want to get everything unhooked from it, so you'll need to remove the dash.
It's not that bad, and you can use the junkyard car as your learning experience for how to do it on yours without ****ing up.

You don't want to pull the heater box out before you take the ducts off because you'll break all the mounting tabs if you do.

Once the dash is out, you can harvest the vent controls that mount under the steering column, the heater/temp controls, wiring and the air ducts. Also make sure you get the glove box liner, as the non a/c one is smaller than the one for a/c cars. On the engine compartment side, make sure you grab the cowl screen, and you'll have to remove the lower windshield trim to get to some of the fasteners, and you'll also have to remove some of the brackets for the windshield trim so you can slip the box out once it's free.

If you're lucky enough to find a non a/c Cutlass, grab the vent piece that is above the glovebox. One of the two vents is a dummy, that is specific to non a/c cars. The trim piece around the headlight switch is also non a/c specific, and has no vent on it. Look in my photo album at the interior shots of my 442 to see what they look like.

I've done this on both my 442 and my Cutlass wagon.
It's really not too hard of a swap, just be careful taking the dash apart, and try and keep track of where all your fasteners go.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

Thanks very much! I just need to figure out what those parts look like and where exactly they are :lol:

Never removed a dashboard before. Does anyone have a tutorial or how to? Tried searching on here, but looking for a little more in-debth, maybe with pictures.

I won't be doing this swap right away, most likely when I do a V8 swap, which will be down the road somewhere. The digital camera will come in handy here :lol:

Thanks again!

 

[hunter_alexander]

Matt,

I stopped by with the cutlass the other night at Delta sonic. Couldnt find you. lol

Anyways, are you talking about the cars at dennys? If so, let me know and I may be able to meet up with you there and give you a hand. I have a few things I still need to pick up there.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

yeah, I wasn't working yesterday, but I wish I was now :lol:

Yeah, I'll let you know when I'm going to head up there. I can't remember if theres a cutlass with the heater box, but it should work fine if I get one from a regal (I hope)

The heater box, and an Inner fender. I'm still researching the camaro steering boxes. I don't know if you've seen it, but theres a red 80's camaro with the option IROC wheels, and I'm trying to identify the steering box on it. Hopefully its the quick ratio :lol:

I'll definitely let you know though 🙂

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

The IROC would have the quick ratio box. I have one in my car, but there are a few things to know about using one. First, the internal stops are much thicker in an F car box than a G car box, so there will be less steering travel available, which could increase the turning circle. Second, you will need to swap pitman arms as the F car arm is too long and might make the tie rod hit the frame, or scrape it...ask me how I know...

 

[3XBrownCutty]

How do you know?? jk :lol:

I'm not absolutely sure it's an IROC though. If it has the option wheels it has the package or what? I don't remember any IROC stickers on the rockers. Hold on.... I'm putting a pic of it in my photo album. Check it out.

I'll put some other misc. junkyard pics in as well 😀

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Just like with a G body, the factory big sway bars indicate the performance suspension option and quick ratio box. If you want to see if it was a Z-28, open the console lid and see if it has the Z28 option code. An IROC Z was a fancy Z-28, so I think the code should be there.

One of the things I am curious about is if the LCA's are different. I remember hearing years ago that the LCA's on 16 in wheel F bodies were a different length or ball joint angle and this was done to change the camber curve. I tend to believe (but have never actually verified) that the 3rd gen F bodies used a G body LCA up front. The reason I think that is that the center of the spring pocket has a provision for a shock while the F body used a Mac Phearson strut and no shock was used in the center of the spring with that design. Since the F and G car rear LCA's are identical ( I have F car LCA's on my car right now, if memory serves), GM may also have shared these parts up front as well.

The significance of the LCA difference comes into play when you start playing with the front suspension geometry of the car. If it moves the ball joint, I wonder if it moves it into a position conducive to reducing the bad bump steer geometry our cars have. Again, this is all speculation and as always, I invite anyone to either confirm or destroy my theories.

 

[crappycutlass]

that car IS NOT a iroc.. or a z28 for that matter... its a gay V6 RS...

there were no 3.1l irocs... or zeds...