I need the procedure to remove a dash for an 86 Cutlass. I tried checking the Haynes manual and All Data with no luck. There is no HVAC stuff in there anymore if that makes things easier.
Cutlass Dash Removal
- Thread starter dan2286
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Take off the speaker covers, and then basically remove all visible bolts on the top and bottom of the dash. Don't forget you need to drop the column a little bit. Be aware of all grounds and that the wiring harness is attatched to the back of the dash. Make sure all your connectors and everything are out from behind the instrument cluster.
Stay organized and don't forget where the bolts/screws go.
I had to take out my dash to swap to just heat. I had never done it before but it wasn't that hard to do. I had everything done in two days, minus the little pieces that differ between a/c and just heat.
Hope this helps. Why are you taking the dash out?? Replace, Paint?
Stay organized and don't forget where the bolts/screws go.
I had to take out my dash to swap to just heat. I had never done it before but it wasn't that hard to do. I had everything done in two days, minus the little pieces that differ between a/c and just heat.
Hope this helps. Why are you taking the dash out?? Replace, Paint?
I am getting this, minus doors and trunk.
It is completely rust free. I will be swapping everything over from my current car to this one. My car has to much rust to fix, so it will be retired 🙁 Luckily, most of the other parts on my car are in very good shape, so it should end up pretty nice.
The bolts that are on the top of the dash you are talkin about, are they visible from the outside or do you have to get them from under?
It is completely rust free. I will be swapping everything over from my current car to this one. My car has to much rust to fix, so it will be retired 🙁 Luckily, most of the other parts on my car are in very good shape, so it should end up pretty nice.
The bolts that are on the top of the dash you are talkin about, are they visible from the outside or do you have to get them from under?
They are just the little black bolts. The ones in the middle are visible all the time, you just have to remove the speaker covers to get to the other two. Just use a long extension to get them.
yeah like 3Xbrowncutty said,
Its pretty much straightfoward,, i believe that theirs a bolt or 2 on each side also,, and to get the speaker covers off just get a screw driver and pry them off just put yur hand under the screw driver, i didnt do that and just pryed on the dash and put a small crack in it,. and if all the heat is out already thats alot of duct work u dont have to deal with which will make it easier,,
**most of the bolts are 7mm (typical Olds)
Its pretty much straightfoward,, i believe that theirs a bolt or 2 on each side also,, and to get the speaker covers off just get a screw driver and pry them off just put yur hand under the screw driver, i didnt do that and just pryed on the dash and put a small crack in it,. and if all the heat is out already thats alot of duct work u dont have to deal with which will make it easier,,
**most of the bolts are 7mm (typical Olds)
There are four torx-headed fasteners (T15 I believe) along the top of the dash, just like 3XBrownCutty mentioned.
Remove your instrument bezel, and the gauge cluster, so you can unhook the speedo cable. If your car has/had cruise control, you can unhook the cable under the hood, to allow it to pull out a bit more so you have easier access to unhook the cable and VSS thing.
There is a 13mm bolt on each lower corner of the dash, fastening it to the sides of the cowl.
Loosen your steering column. The dash frame is sandwiched in between the column and the column support.
Unhook your parking brake release cable.
Remove you stereo any unhook any extra wires.
Remove your HVAC controls from the dash, and just let them hang. They will slip out the back as you remove the dash.
There is another 13mm bolt hiding along the bottom of the dash, kind of behind the radio, to the right.
You'll then either have to disconnect the wiring harness from the bulk-head, or dick around with a bunch of 7mm fasteners that hold the wiring harness in place along the back side of the dash. If you're planning on leaving the harness in the car, then you'll have to unhook each component, like the defrost switch, headlight switch, and anything else in the way.
After that, it'll pop right out.
It sounds like a lot of work, and I was kind of intimidated by the task the first time I undertook it, but I've had a couple Cutlass dashes apart now, and it's not too bad of a job.
Remove your instrument bezel, and the gauge cluster, so you can unhook the speedo cable. If your car has/had cruise control, you can unhook the cable under the hood, to allow it to pull out a bit more so you have easier access to unhook the cable and VSS thing.
There is a 13mm bolt on each lower corner of the dash, fastening it to the sides of the cowl.
Loosen your steering column. The dash frame is sandwiched in between the column and the column support.
Unhook your parking brake release cable.
Remove you stereo any unhook any extra wires.
Remove your HVAC controls from the dash, and just let them hang. They will slip out the back as you remove the dash.
There is another 13mm bolt hiding along the bottom of the dash, kind of behind the radio, to the right.
You'll then either have to disconnect the wiring harness from the bulk-head, or dick around with a bunch of 7mm fasteners that hold the wiring harness in place along the back side of the dash. If you're planning on leaving the harness in the car, then you'll have to unhook each component, like the defrost switch, headlight switch, and anything else in the way.
After that, it'll pop right out.
It sounds like a lot of work, and I was kind of intimidated by the task the first time I undertook it, but I've had a couple Cutlass dashes apart now, and it's not too bad of a job.
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